卢浮宫的珍宝（2013）

This Second Empire style was a self-conscious
有人批评说这只是对太阳王的拙劣效仿
and some said vulgar way of aping the Sun King.
路易·波拿巴却希望世人都知道
But Louis Bonaparte wanted everybody to know
他的卢浮宫在奢华程度上
that his Louvre was as much a glittering reflection of his Imperial eminence
不亚于以往的任何一座宫殿
as any in the past.
但旧卢浮宫的拆毁
But the destruction of the old Louvre
使得一位诗人兼评论家为之哀叹
was mourned by one poet and critic.
夏尔·波德莱尔是卢浮宫的常客
Charles Baudelaire was a regular visitor to the museum.
这里温暖而舒适 他常来此与母亲会面
It was a warm and comfortable place to meet his mother.
他还曾带一名廉价妓♥女♥来参观古代雕像
He once took a five franc whore to look at the ancient statues.
她因为裸体雕像而震惊
She professed to be scandalised by the nudity.
波德莱尔是德拉克罗瓦的朋友 也是他的画迷
Baudelaire was a great admirer and friend of Delacroix,
1851年
who in 1851,
德拉克罗瓦绘制了阿波罗长廊的穹顶
had completed this ceiling in the Galerie d’Apollon.
他们是灵魂知己
They were romantic soul brothers.
波德莱尔如是写道
Of the painter he wrote,
德拉克罗瓦激烈地爱着激♥情♥
“Delacroix was passionately in love with passion
却又能冷静坚定地
“But coldly determined
把激♥情♥表现得淋漓尽致
to express passion as clearly as possible.”
波德莱尔虽然挚爱卢浮宫内的艺术珍宝
But while Baudelaire loved the art inside the Louvre with passion,
却深深厌恶着卢浮宫外的世界
he hated what had happened outside.
1857年
In 1857,
他的诗集《恶之花》出版
a collection of his poems was published, the Flowers of Evil.
其中的一首诗 《天鹅》表达了
In it there’s one poem, The Swan, which captures his melancholy
他对于这里和巴黎其他地方
over what had been lost here
失去的事物的愁思
and elsewhere in Paris.
摇摇欲坠的房♥屋 菜市场
The rickety tenements, the market stalls
人们虽囊中羞涩 但内心丰富
and the poor in pocket but rich in heart.
[本段译文引自2009年上海译文出版社版《恶之花》
译者为郭宏安]
“巴黎在变
‘Paris changes!
我的忧郁却未减毫厘
But in my melancholy nothing has moved
新的宫殿 脚手架
‘New palaces, blocks,
一片片房♥栊 破旧的四郊
scaffoldings, old neighbourhoods
一切都有了寓意
‘Everything for me is allegory
我珍贵的回忆却比石头还重
‘And my dear memories are heavier than stone
卢浮宫前面的景象压♥迫♥着我
‘And so outside the Louvre an image gives me pause
我想起那只大天鹅 动作呆痴
‘I think of my great swan. His gestures pained and mad
仿佛又可笑又崇高的流亡者
‘Like other exiles both ridiculous and sublime
被无限的希望噬咬”
‘Gnawed by his endless longing.’
波德莱尔失去了他钟爱的巴黎
Baudelaire had lost his beloved Paris,
但这个由奥斯曼男爵
but the city created by Haussmann
为拿破仑三世所建的城市
for Louis-Napoleon
却留存至今
is one that you can still enjoy today.
我一直被它的规模 笔直的道路
And I for one never fail to be impressed by its scale,
以及对称的格局所吸引
its straight lines and symmetry.
但皇帝很快便丢掉了这座城池
But it wouldn’t take long for the Emperor to lose the capital,
以及他的卢浮宫
and with it, his Louvre.
1870年
In 1870,
他与普鲁士进行了一场灾难性的战争
he entered into a disastrous war with Prussia.
法国被占领 巴黎被包围
France was occupied and Paris put under siege.
兵败之后
After military defeat,
路易·波拿巴最后一次离开了卢浮宫
Louis Bonaparte left the Louvre for the last time
开始了他的流亡
and went into exile.
在巴黎 街垒最后一次被设起
In Paris, barricades went up for one final time,
巴黎公社成立
as a Commune was declared.
公社社员于1871年春接管了巴黎
The Communards took control of the city in the spring of 1871.
起先 一切都是在节日般的欢愉中进行的
At first, it was all done in a traditionally festive mood.
庆祝节日
En fete.
在5月16日
On the 16th of May,
社员们推倒了位于旺多姆广场的
the Communards knocked down the mock Roman column,
仿古罗马铜柱
here on the Place Vendome
这根铜柱原本是为歌♥颂拿破仑的军功而立
that had been erected as yet another tribute to Napoleon’s military exploits.
之后到午夜时分 革命的盛会继续
Then, around midnight, the revolutionary fiesta moved on.
大概三百名公社社员
Around 300 Communards
闯进了卢浮宫大酒店的酒窖
broke into the cellars of the Grand Hotel du Louvre
在那里 他们尽情享用了美酒
where they helped themselves to the finest wines and smoked…
以及他们能找到的最大最贵的雪茄
the most expensive and hugest cigars they could find.
但这充满希望的五月时节
But these May days of hope
也伴随着卢浮宫周围的战斗
were also accompanied by intense fighting around the Louvre,
左右翼势力间的战斗变得愈发血腥
as civil war between left and right turned bloody.
5月23日 杜伊勒里宫被放火焚烧
On 23 May, the Palace of the Tuileries was set on fire
它的圆屋顶也被炸飞
and its dome blown up with explosives.
这座王室曾经的宅邸
The place that had been home to kings, queens and emperors
燃烧了48个小时
burned for 48 hours.
杜伊勒里的焚毁
The destruction of the Tuileries
使高层建筑的分布发生了变化
left a gaping hole that created this skyline,
人们可以一眼望到凯♥旋♥门
with its clear views all the way to the Arc de Triomphe.
对卢浮宫而言 这是个决定性的时刻
As for the Louvre, I think that this was a defining moment.
作为皇室寝宫的杜伊勒里宫
The residence of royals and emperors, the Tuileries
对于巴黎人来说 一直是专♥制♥独♥裁♥的象征
had always been the symbol of autocratic rule to Parisians.
而此时的卢浮宫 却给人以不同的印象
Yet the Louvre was by now a different place in the eyes of the people,
所以未遭焚毁
so it was spared the torch.
可能这正得益于其中可供大众欣赏的艺术品
Perhaps the presence of publicly available art guaranteed its survival.
为什么要摧毁属于人♥民♥的博物馆呢
Why destroy the People’s Museum?
那绝对是野蛮行为
That would be vandalism.
19世纪70年代 第三共和国成立之时
And by the time a Third Republic was established in 1870s,
卢浮宫的馆藏进一步丰富
there was much more to be enjoyed in the museum.
慷慨的拉卡兹博士等人
There were wonderful new paintings
捐助了大量精美的新画作
donated by benefactors like the generous Dr Lacaze.
其中一幅是胡塞佩·德·里贝拉的作品
One of these is The Club Foot
《畸形的乞丐》
by Jusepe de Ribera,
这是17世纪画家对残疾人士的描绘
a 17th-century portrait of disability.
画中的男孩微笑着 露出他的断齿
The boy smiles and reveals his broken teeth.
他直直地看着我们 眼里充满渴望
He looks us straight in the eye, he wants something.
他的手里攥着一张纸 是张祈愿书
So look at his hand holding a piece of paper, a begging letter.
上面写着 “看在上帝的份上 给点钱吧”
“For the love of God, give me alms,” It reads.
游客们可欣赏到这尊绝美的大理石雕像
And visitors could marvel at this fabulous marble statue,
《萨莫特拉斯的胜利女神》
The Winged Victory of Samothrace,
它是从爱琴海地区挖掘出来的
which had arrived from an excavation in the Aegean.
雕像已有两千多年的历史
Over 2,000 years old,
雕刻的是古希腊胜利女神的形象
it’s a depiction of the Greek goddess Nike,
据研究是为庆祝一场海上战役而作
thought to be celebrating a naval battle.
她有着一种静止的优雅与美丽
She’s got a kind of still beauty and grace,
但翩翩的裙褶又透出生机活力
but her flowing drapery gives a dynamism and movement.
我觉得她好像可以随时挥动翅膀
I feel as if she could take wing at any time
在卢浮宫中中飞舞穿梭
and fly through the miles of galleries.
卢浮宫现在是个公共的空间
The Louvre was now established as a democratic space
每周六天免费向公众开放
open free to the public six days a week.
来自法国及世界各地的游客
And visitors from all over France and beyond
都渴望一睹其风采
were eager to visit this must-see part of the Paris experience.
19世纪末
By the late 19th century,
巴黎毋庸置疑地成为了世界文化之都
there was no question that Paris was the cultural capital of the world.
卢浮宫则是最强有力的标志
And that the Louvre was the most potent symbol of this domination.
当时 它已成为公共空间
By now, it was well established as a public space
向所有参观者开放
open to all who wished to visit.
当时的画家会在像拉帕雷特咖啡馆
The artists of the day would congregate in places like this,
这样的地方聚集
Cafe La Palette.
而印象派画家
And the Impressionists
是博物馆最经常的拜访者
were the most regular visitors to the museum,
从过去的作品中获取灵感
taking their inspiration from the past,
去看 去学习 去模仿
to look, learn and copy.
这里有一幅德加的蜡笔画
Here in the Louvre is a pastel drawing by Degas,
《出浴》
La Sortie Du Bain.
这幅是莫奈的
Here’s a Monet.
在当时 人们认为这些画家过于前卫
At the time, works like these were considered avant-garde,
甚至是可耻的
scandalous even,
因此 这些作品被学院派抵♥制♥
and as such, were rejected by the Academy that still controlled the Salon.
因此这些画家被迫在落选画廊中展览
So these painters were forced to exhibit in a Salon des Refuses.
这幅是毕沙罗的
Here’s a Pissarro.
他曾对塞尚说
He once said to Cezanne
他倒是希望卢浮宫被烧毁