九月刊（2009）

Whose is that?
Rodarte:美国高端时装品牌
我想是Rodarte
有一张被拿掉了
Something got snapped off here.
哪张被否决了 让我猜猜
Which one went? That’s the guess?
不用问 肯定是另一张黑色的
Oh yes, of course, the other black one.
可怜的Rodarte小黑裙
Those poor goddamn Rodartes.
我知道 都被剔了
I know, they are out.
橡胶不算质感服饰吗
Rubber’s not a texture?
安娜觉得不算
-那皮革肯定也… -是我们整理的
– And leather’s definitely– – We ordered it.
所有打印图都是我们整理序的…
We ordered all the prints, so…
-没错 我听说了 -嗯
– Oh, yeah, I’ve heard that story. – Yeah.
但是这张拍得很好
But it’s such a good picture, that.
安娜其实也喜欢这张照片
Anna actually liked it as a picture.
只是她觉得这件不算是质感服饰
She thought it wasn’t texture.
怎么不是呢
It is texture.
塔库恩
咱们加条腰线看看
Let’s add the waist seam now then.
要不要加口袋
Do we need pockets?
所以这件不是连体的吗
So…this one, is not all-around?
是 是连体的
Yes, it is actually.
颜色棒极了
我个人不会在秀上展示这件 但是…
I personally would not put this one in the show, but…
除此以外 展示过的服饰都很让人激动
The other things you’ve shown us are more exciting.
奥斯卡·德拉伦塔
设计师
实际上 这些全都还在考虑中
这里肯定有上百件
There must be a hundred of that.
听着 我们共设计了150件成衣
但是得缩减到65件
格蕾丝很擅长精简 来吧 格蕾丝
Grace is very good at that. Go on, Grace.
-大刀阔斧 -安娜才厉害
– Slash and burn. – No, Anna’s,
-不过我觉得你会受不住那股冲击 -那…
– but I don’t think you could take Anna’s slashing. – So…
这是给Mango那边找的人的名单
你觉得谁最优秀
塔库恩
Thakoon
显然他们出手大方
我还准备推荐咱俩呢
这是谁 安娜
塔库恩 他很优秀
Thakoon. He’s really good.
现在就漂亮多了
See now it’s beautiful.
真的很好看
Now it’s really pretty.
这个不错 很不错
This is good, this is good.
现在为胸针挑服饰
So, for the brooch.
Lanvin是法国历史最悠久的高级时装品牌
先是Lanvin的
Lanvin.
Balenciaga是设计师同名高级时装品牌
有这件 是Balenciaga的
We have this. From Balenciaga.
我觉得挺酷的
I think it’s cool.
就像是个颈箍
It’s like a neck brace.
我们开始以为这是条围巾
At first we thought maybe it was a scarf.
-是个颈箍 -对
– It’s a neck brace. – Yeah.
我换拍另一辑20年代风格的大♥片♥
I moved on. I’m onto ’20s now.
格蕾丝
20年代风格
20年代风格专题是…
The ’20s is something that…
约翰·加利亚诺是法国高级成衣品牌DIOR的首席设计师
素有时装怪才之美誉
其灵感来自于约翰·加利亚诺的服装秀
Well, really the inspiration was John Galliano’s show.
布拉塞是匈牙利籍摄影大♥师♥
他受到了20年代的摄影师
He was inspired by the photographer Brassai…
布拉塞的启发
who’s a photographer from the ’20s.
布拉塞
我现在很想找到合适的鞋子
Shoes, I’m very desperate for.
必须是能唤起20年代的感觉的东西
It just has to be something that slightly evokes the ’20s.
她穿的是什么
What has she got? Well.
你必须找出那个年代的时装故事
You have to have that fashion story, you know…
有斑点 条纹 或是伞裙
spots are in or stripes or full skirts
或是直筒裙什么的
or straight skirts or whatever it is.
但是我想让这些东西变得次要
But I’ve tried to make that secondary.
我们要围绕着这个女孩和她的行为
We built a fantasy around the girl… and what she’s doing,
她的想法和身份构造一个梦幻国度
what she’s thinking, who she is.
-但是你也知道 -没错 那个
– But there, you know. – Yeah, that.
当然那张照片出彩的地方就在于
But of course, what’s so genius about that is that…
她的腿又粗又壮
you know, she has big, fat legs and things.
我喜欢
I love that.
这张也可以用来参考
It’s a reference picture as well.
都很美
They are so beautiful.
请问他们还来不来做简报了
Ok, are they coming for the run-through, please?
安娜的办公室刚刚来电♥话♥
That was just Anna’s office.
她11点有预约
She has an 11 o’clock appointment.
就是什么意思
So what does that mean?
现在差10分钟就11点了
It’s ten till eleven right now.
她想赶在11点前见我吗
So she wants to see me before?
-弗吉尼亚 -在
– Virginia. – Yeah?
安娜想让我们现在过去
Anna wants to see us now…
-因为她11点还要去别的地方 -好的
– ’cause she has somewhere to be at 11. – Ok.
我们进去了
We’re goin’ in.
我这有一堆东西
I have a ton of stuff here.
我不知道该把那些配在一起 或是单穿
I do not know how many doubles, triple, singles I’m doing.
也许我们可以排出优先次序
But maybe we can prioritize and you should, you know,…
但是
But yeah
如果你讨厌哪件
if you hate something…
就直接说”我不想那件出现在杂♥志♥里”
just say: “I never want to see that in magazine.”
好的
Okay.
这里有两件外套
There are two coats here.
我有点举棋不定
I’m sort of undecided about them.
这个是不是跟我们七月刊里的很像
Is it similar to the one we did in July?
不是 因为你记得的那件
It’s not, because you’re thinking
虽然拍了 但是没选上
of the one we shot and didn’t run.
我已经拍过它们两次了…
I’ve shot them twice …
但是在杂♥志♥里面没有用过
but we have not had them in the magazine.
外套都没选上
The coat didn’t run.
再来这里有些小裙子
Anyway, there’s all these little dresses.
还有这件小外套
And then this little coat.
我特别喜欢这些晚礼服
I love all these little evening things.
把外套类的都拿走
Let’s remove the coat.
你必须给我逐一展示服饰的自♥由♥
I have to have a little freedom to play around.
格蕾丝 我的意思是
Grace, I mean,
这里有很多可以穿的衣服…
there is a lot wearable things in this…
我想要的是一件更耐穿的衣服
and I want this to be more wearable than not.
我和安娜是同一天进入Vogue
I started working for American Vogue
美国总部工作的
the same day Anna did.
我想我们非常了解彼此
I think we understand each other pretty much.
单凭在一起工作了20年
Just through, you know, living together for 20 years.
她知道我很固执
She knows I’m stubborn.
我知道她很固执
I know she is stubborn.
我知道什么时候不能再逼她了
And I know when to stop pushing her.
她不知道什么时候不能再逼我了
She doesn’t know when to stop pushing me.
只有一件皮草不是很怪吗
Is it odd just having one fur?
我们是不是应该
I mean, should we
再添一样皮草的服饰呢
have one other thing that has a fur?
我是说 我觉得只有一件很突兀
I mean, I think it’s odd to have one, I mean,
-也许你们可以加一顶毛皮帽子或… -行
– maybe you’re going to do a fur hat or– – Ok.
我感觉怪怪的 整场拍摄只有…
I think it’s sort of strange to have a whole shoot–
我想尽可能做出各种不同的造型
I’m trying to make as many different looks as possible.
但是我觉得你还得加一样
Yeah, but I think you need one more.
不然会让人觉得乏味
Otherwise, you are gonna get bored.
但是我不会的 我会把这件拿开
But I wouldn’t, I would take that out,
然后这些都不要 好吧
then these all out, is that right?
不 这些不该不要
No, these would be not.
这些都很漂亮
These are beautiful.
我是说 别否决掉这些
I mean, don’t throw those out.
你看多漂亮啊
They are beautiful.
我觉得我们不该拍这几件
And I don’t think we should do this.
这个是度假系列的 对吧
This one from Resort, right?
对 非常完美
Yes, it’s so perfect.
我知道 格蕾丝
I know, Grace.
它会在11月上架
It’s going in the store in November.
你可以把它放进十一月刊里
You can do it in the November issue.
她怎么会否决掉这些呢
How can she think of leaving these out?