九月刊（2009）

– it’s like insane. – Intimidating. Right.
我记得我和梅雷迪思在她办公室里
And I remember there was me and Meredith in Anna’s office.
那是我和她的首次见面
It was the first time I met her.
我心里想 “哦老天 是安娜”
I was, like “oh my God, it’s Anna”,
就好像是要见麦当娜
it’s like Madonna is Anna, you know,
然后 我机械地… 她说让我继续
and I was just…She’s like, “Okay, go on”,
我就手舞足蹈地讲述自己的创作灵感
so I’m talking about the inspiration. I’m moving my hands,
并且给她展示我的成品
and I’m showing her the pieces,
我都可以看到我的手在颤抖
and I can see my hand shaking,
激动得发抖
It was shaking.
因为她就一直坐在那
Because she just sat there the whole time…
以”嗯 嗯”示意
like ‘Mm-hmm, mm-hmm.’.
于是当我们离开时
So then we get out of there…
梅雷迪思说”天啊 你说得真流利”
Meredith said, “Oh my god, you were so well-spoken”,
但其实我的手一直在抖
but that hand kept shaking.
安娜·温图尔办公室
Anna Wintour’s office.
-塔库恩 你好吗 -你好吗
– Hi, Thakoon. How are you? – Hi, how are you?
我带了八张草图来
I have eight sketches.
你想我怎么摆给你看呢
I don’t know how you want me to lay them out for you.
就放这吧
Right here.
-你认识塔库恩吧 -对
– You know Thakoon, right? – Yes.
Gap是美国历史性品牌
这些就是他为Gap设计的衬衫草图
So these are his sketches for the Gap project, the shirts.
其中三件会…
And it’s three that would–
我们要筛选出三件吗
We’re meant to narrow it down to three?
我认为我们应该选一件短袖的
I think we ought to do one with a little sleeve.
我喜欢那件短袖的
I love the little sleeve.
然后再挑一条裙子
And then maybe one that is a dress.
在美国当设计师是困艰的
It is very hard to be a designer in this country.
所以我们设立了一个时尚基金
So we created a fashion fund to
让新起之秀得到关注
draw attention to new talent…
为他们提供资金和指导
… to fund it and to get mentoring for it.
胜出者会获得为一个大品牌做设计的机会
The winners get to design something for a mega-brand.
-你喜欢这件吗 -我会考虑这件
– You like this one? – I wouldn’t discount that.
它的设计很简约 会让Gap的顾客
It’s got a simplicity that the Gap customers…
一眼就喜欢上
…is going to immediately acknowledge.
塔库恩是奖金的获胜者之一
Thakoon was one of the winners of the award.
他具备开♥发♥一条高端设计
He has all the components to have…
一线品牌的所有元素
a serious high-end designer line.
我喜欢那三幅
I’m happy with those three.
干得好 好了 谢谢各位
Perfect, all right, well, thank you.
-谢谢 -好了
– Thank you. – Ok.
这个行业谁也说不准
You never know, though.
我记得艾萨克·麦兹拉西也曾失过业
I mean, remember Isaac Mizrahi went out of business.
艾萨克·麦兹拉西:纽约著名设计师
时装业没有公平可言
The fashion business isn’t fair.
哪怕你做到十全十美 都有可能倒台
They do everything right and they still crash.
织物服饰拍摄
这几个颜色不错
Those colours are good.
我是当今为数不多的
I’m one of the last remaining fashion editors…
亲手装扮模特的时尚编辑了
who dress the girls myself.
我听说时髦的做法是不碰模特
I’m told the very modern thing is to don’t touch the girls.
-对吧 -对
– Is that right? – Yeah.
-那谁来帮你呢 助手吗 -是的
– Who does it? An assisstant. – Yeah.
我不知道 我作风有点老派
I don’t know. I’m a bit old-fashioned.
我喜欢这张 看到没 我喜欢这张
I love this. See? I love this.
很好 可可 看向灯光 来
Good, Coco. Watch the light, guys. Come on.
她看起来像是穿了个塑料袋
She just looks like she’s got a plastic bag on.
但是挺好看的
But it looks good.
像个垃圾袋之类的
Garbage bag or something.
-晚安 -大家晚安
– Good night. – Good night, everyone.
我从十几岁的时候就开始看《Vogue》
I started reading Vogue when I was a teenager.
我是在北威尔士长大的
And I grew up in North Wales …
《时尚》在那一书难求
and it was kind of difficult to get.
所以我以前都是订购的
So I used to order it and
每月以最快速度拿到
rush once a month to get my copy…
我那本可能都过期三个月的杂♥志♥
which was probably three months out of date.
我喜欢所有时髦的东西
I loved whole sort of chic thing…
跟我的生活方式相比是那么漠不相关
that was so entirely out of context compared to the lifestyle I led.
我每天就是上学 去修道院
You know, I went to school. I went to a convent.
我放假的时候哪也没去过
I never went anywhere for my holidays…
就只是翻看《Vogue》
so I just looked at Vogue.
格蕾丝 十七岁时
与此同时 《Vogue》办了一场模特大赛
At the same time, there was a Vogue model competition.
有人把我几张很丑的照片寄了过去
And somebody sent my very bad pictures in.
我却在青年组比赛中获胜了
I acturally won the young section.
因为我当时很年轻
Because I was quite young at that time.
于是我就开始给《Vogue》当模特
And so I started modeling for Vogue.
获胜者
我仿佛迷上了自己所做的一切
Somehow everything I did, I kind of fell into.
我就是知道自己也许会离开那里
I just knew that I probably had to get out of that place.
于是我去了伦敦 成了全职模特
So I went up to London, and I became full time model.
这是多个摄影师给我拍的照片
These are pictures of me by various photographers.
这是我最早期的模特照之一
This is one of my very first model pictures.
斯♥诺♥顿勋爵:杰出的王室摄影师
可能是斯♥诺♥顿勋爵在59年拍的
It’s probably ’59 by Lord Snowden.
我自出车祸后就没再做模特了
I stopped modeling because I had a car crash.
不知是我的头撞上了后视镜
My head went into the driving mirror,
还是我的眼睛撞上了
or my eye went into the driving mirror.
所以我做了好几次整形手术
So I had a lot of plastic surgeries.
两年后 我又再继续工作
And then two years later, I sort of went back to work.
大卫·贝利和赫尔穆特·牛顿均是殿堂级时装摄影师
这张是我跟贝利 赫尔穆特合作时的合影
This is from a shoot I did with Bailey, Helmut.
莫罗·伯拉尼克:最伟大的鞋匠,同名品牌被誉为高跟鞋中的贵族
这个是莫罗·伯拉尼克
This is Manolo Blahnik…
这是做模特时期的安杰丽卡·休斯顿
and this is Anjelica Huston when she was modeling.
《Vogue》英国分部邀请我去工作
I was offered a job at British Vogue.
我最初只是个小编辑
I was junior editor…
然后靠自己慢慢爬上来
and kind of slowly worked my way up.
-你好 -柯丁顿小姐
– Hello. – Ms. Coddington.
天啊
Oh, my God.
你的拍摄顺利吗
How was your shoot?
很顺利
It was great.
这张很漂亮 对吧
This is really good, isn’t it?
都很漂亮 不是吗
They are good, aren’t they?
-是谁造型的 -是格蕾丝 对吧
– Who styled that? – Grace, right?
格蕾丝和克雷格
Grace and Craig.
-真的很美 -好漂亮
– It’s real nice. – It’s beautiful.
格蕾丝毫无疑问是现存最棒的设计师
Grace is without question the greatest living stylist.
没人能胜过格蕾丝
There is no one better than Grace.
除了她 没人能让任何摄影师
There is no one who can make any photographer…
拍出最漂亮 最有趣 最浪漫
take more beautiful, more interesting, more romantic…
最惊艳最逼真的照片
more…just stunningly realized pictures than Grace.
目前没人及她出色
There’s no one better. Period.
她的构思源自一个想法
She comes from the idea that fashion…
时尚是表演和虚幻的世界
is this world of play and make-believe.
就像是有人打开了化妆盒
It is as if someone gone to the dressing-up box…
找到了里面各种最漂亮的东西
and found the most kind of wonderful personal things
然后把它们凑在一起
and put them together.
但效果美不可言
But it’s beautiful.
-你好 安娜 -你好
– Hi, Anna. – Hi.
丹科·斯坦纳
艺术总监
我并不太喜欢这张 你呢
I’m not crazy about this one, are you?
我挺喜欢的
I like it.
要这张吗
Do we need this?
我只是觉得这张没突出织物
It’s just not saying texture to me.
而其他都有
All the others–
-你懂我的意思吧 -懂
– Do you understand what I’m saying? – Yeah.
我真是越来越担心
I’m just really really concerned about
本期运用的黑色太多了
how much black we’re getting.
所以我们是不是应该再删减一张
So, if we were to just take another one out?
这张如何
Maybe that?
-让我看看 -好的
– Let me see it. – Ok.
-先让我看看 -好的
– Let me just see it. – Ok.
这件是哪个牌子