九月刊（2009）

在会议上 逐一分♥析♥这些服装
And in the meetings, you dissect the collections
再决定本季主打的潮流
and decide what trends to feature.
安德烈 我听说你不喜欢Calvin
Andrew, I hear you didn’t like Calvin.
Calvin Klein是美国著名时装品牌
我只是平心而论 少点婉转罢了
I thought it was clinical. Save to polite.
九月即时尚界的新年伊始
September is the January in fashion, you know?
这是我的蜕变之际
This is when I change.
此时我会说
This is when I say, you know,
我得赶快穿回那些高跟鞋
I’m gonna try to get back on those high heels,
因为那才跟得上潮流
cause that’s the look.
夹克将成为外套新潮流
Yeah, the jacket is the new coat.
你要分辨出 穿什么性感 穿什么过时
The look is sexy. The look is granny. You need to know.
这件美极了 那件也很漂亮
This is heaven, that’s gorgerous.
那应该做成一辑时尚故事
That should be a fashion story.
格蕾丝 问题是 这是个饰品故事
But that’s the problem, Grace. It’s an accessory story,
那才是我想要的
and that’s what I need.
但那可是万众期待的故事
Well, it’s a story crying to be done.
格蕾丝 我明白你的意思
Grace, I hear you,
但是我不想把这故事放进九月刊
but it’is just not what I need in the September Issue.
你必须构想出一些故事
You have to really find some stories there,
那必须是
and you have to find stories
绝无仅有的奇妙构思
that haven’t been played out anywhere else.
且内容得初具规模
And they have to be on a certain scale.
我和格蕾丝就这点谈了一下
Having talked to Grace a little bit about this.
我认为她非常想做质感服饰
I think she very much wants to do texture.
格蕾丝
质感服饰
这算是质感服饰吗
What has that got to do with texture?
-看 -不行
– Well, look. – No.
-我觉得你得拿走这件 -我伤心透了
– I think you should bring it anyway. – It’s breaking my heart.
九月刊的制♥作♥通常都是一场大灾难
Usually in the September Issue, there’s one big disaster.
只有一次拍片机会 这无疑是一大问题
There is always one shoot that’s a big problem in the issue.
因为本期内容庞大 要顾及很多事情
Because it’s a big issue, and there is a lot of things going on.
距离定稿日还有五个月
暂时先把那件放在一边
Let’s put that one to the side for now.
还有那件
And that one, too.
让我看看还有什么别的
Let me see what else there is.
约翰森·桑德斯是以艳丽色彩闻名的伦敦设计师同名品牌
我们想将约翰森·桑德斯的作品…
Jonathan Saunders is someone we wanted to–
-是挺美 -我们想把其作品放进去
-It’s cute, – We’re trying to get him in.
但它和别的不一样
but it’s a different thing.
它们不算是拼色对碰
They are not color blocking.
我想自杀
你想自杀 为什么
You wanna kill yourself? Why?
我真不知道自己在做什么
怎么了
What happened?
这件被否决了
This got thrown out.
-如果这两件搭配 -我们就是这样搭配的
– If it’s with this. – This is what we did.
-很不错啊 -她说不行 非时下流行
– It’s fine. – It wasn’t the look. She said no.
拼色对碰就是将各种不同颜色拼在一起
Color blocking’s all the different colors, you know.
这个配这个 那个配那个
It’s this with this and this with this.
总之我要定这件了
I’m gonna take this anyway.
这件最好吗 我不觉得这件最出彩
Is that the best one? That’s not the best one.
-你得强势一点 爱德华 -告诉我你是怎样做到的
– You gotta be tougher, Edward. – Tell me, what do you do?
-你得更强势 -你会怎么做
– You gotta be tough. – What’d you do?
你得提出你的要求
You have to demand.
不然就会遭受指责
Because, otherwise, you’ll be blamed.
别太好说话 即便是对我
Don’t be too nice, even to me.
我说的是实话 不然你会满盘皆输
No, honestly, because…you’ll lose.
你得要学会开辟自己的道路
You have to learn the way to beat your path through,
让自己有存在感
to make yourself felt
让自己无可替代
and make yourself necessary,
找到适合自己 适合《Vogue》的工作方式
and find a way that works for you, for Vogue,
毕竟我们的人员流动性很大 人来人往
because a lot people have come, and a lot people have gone.
就因为他们不能承受挫折
They just couldn’t take the heartbreak.
要知道 你得坚忍♥不拔 百折不摧
You know, you have to be fairly tough to withstand that.
都是粉色系
So, it’s all pinks.
弗吉尼亚 你真的认为
And Virginia, we really feel that
这个有重要到刊登在九月刊上吗
this is the most important message to put in the September Issue?
-这很重要 -我喜欢 我认为很漂亮
– It’s important. – I loved it…I thought it was pretty.
艾莉莎·圣蒂西
造型总监
看起来很有弹性
It looks very springy.
那是皮草的
Well, there’s a fur.
或许你可以再做一些扩充
Maybe you want to develop it a little bit more.
我也想听听你对于服饰的想法
I’d also like to see what you’re thinking about with the clothes.
我就可以对此有更多了解
So I can get more of handle on it.
我想这些服装也许传达了某种形体意识
I was thinking maybe it’s a kind of body conscious, the clothes.
就这一点来讲 我认为她可以加点♥金♥属元素
And then at one point, I thought maybe she could be sort of bionic.
即便挂在衣架上也很好看
It looks good on the rack.
但我认为它太单一了
I felt it’s quite one-dimensional,
而且模特们看起来总是一成不变 艾莉莎
but also, the girls always look the same, Elissa.
看看你的照片
If you look at your pictures,
模特的穿衣风格总是一个样
the way they’re dressed, it’s always the same.
而且照片也总是毫无新意
And somehow, the picture’s always the same.
你的作品总是缺乏新意 变化极小
It’s usually the same kind of minimal approach.
我知道 这就是你的风格
I mean, it’s what you are, I know.
模特们也总是以直发出镜
And the girl always tends to have straight hair.
你看起来好像固步自封了
You look at it just like it’s always the same.
期待你能突破自我 谢谢
So it would be great if we could breakout. Thanks.
Mango是来自西班牙巴塞罗那的著名女装品牌
你知道西班牙有一家叫Mango的公♥司♥吗
So you know the company, Mango, in Spain?
是的
Yes.
他们正在寻求咨♥询♥顾问
They are looking for someone to help them consult.
我想推荐塔库恩 你觉得怎么样
Maybe Thakoon, you think?
我认为他是当下最有天赋的设计师之一
I think he’s one of the most talented people out there.
他可能这周会来见我 我可以和他谈谈
He’s coming in to see me, I think, this week, so I could talk to him.
-好的 -好了
– Ok. – Ok.
尤里 麻烦你在星巴克停一下
Yuri, can we stop at Starbucks, please?
我父亲是报社总编
My father was a newspaper editor.
他就职于伦敦的《伦敦晚报》
He edited a newspaper in London called The Evening Standard.
前伦敦报业主编查尔斯·温图尔
Former Fleet Street editor, Charles Wintour,
将对长♥期♥影响作出评价
will be assessing the long-term effects.
他自小接受维多利亚时代式教养
He came from quite a Victorian upbringing.
他的母亲可能从未跟他交谈
I’m not sure his mother ever spoke to him.
他注重隐私 从某种程度而言 他很神秘
He was also very private and very, in some ways inscrutable.
英国报纸出版商协会的脊梁就跟冷淡的水母一样多
The NPA have about as much collective spine as a tepid jellyfish.
成长自60年代的伦敦
Growing up in London in the 60s,
你走在街上 脑子里就必须对
I mean, you’d have to be walking around…
艾文·佩恩泰斗级肖像静物摄影师
艾文·佩恩的宽身夹克有概念
with Irving Penn’s sack over your head,
更别说对时尚界发生的大事了如指掌
not to know that something extrodinary was happening in fashion.
女孩子们的穿衣打扮 以及流行的一切
The look of the girls then and everything that was going on,
比如药丸 女性解放和等级制度的灭亡
the pill, the emancipation of women, and end the class system.
正是目睹了这些重大变革的发生
And just sort of seeing that revolution go on,
安娜 19岁
使我在儿时就爱上了时尚
made me love it from an early age.
我想真正做决定的是我父亲
I think my father really decide it for me
他使我走上了时尚之路
that I should work in fashion.
我不记得自己填过哪些申请表
I can’t remember what form it was I had to fill out.
也许就是这样的申请过程中
Maybe it was an admissions thing,
在我内心深处形成了”职业目标”
and at the bottom, it said “career objectives” you know.
我看着表格 问他”我该怎么写”
And I looked at it and said, ‘What shall I do’?
“我该怎么填” 然后他说
‘How shall I fill this out? ‘ And he said,
“你当然是写上你想当《Vogue》的编辑啊”
“Well, you write that you want to be the editor of Vogue, of course”
就这样 我的人生就这么定了
So, that was it. It was dicided.
安娜 21岁
我们早已知道这件衣服的存在
We have known about this piece for long time.
我不想听到再有人提它 好吗
So I don’t wanna hear it, OK?
我是说她应该在电♥话♥里说清楚
I mean, she should just get on the phone.
这张很朦胧 需要人来检查一遍
This is not clear. Somebody needs check these.
她看起来像是孕妇 我们要…
She looks pregnent. We need to–
-修饰下 -对
– Fix her. – Yeah.
你第一次让我去见安娜
The first time that you are asked to go see Anna
塔库恩
设计师 Vogue时尚基金的受益者
给她展示我的设计
and show her your collection,
-真是太疯狂了 -令人望而生畏 对吧