九月刊（2009）

坦诚地说 但是…
frankly speaking, but …
算是中性色调 新式黑色吧
It’s a bit neutral. New blacks.
我也说不清
I don’t know.
还有海军蓝
There’s blue navy.
还有件宝石绿的
There is an emerald green.
很鲜艳呀
是挺鲜艳的
This is colorful.
好的 我要你附和我…
Okay, I’m gonna need you…
在我说服安娜 那不算是黑色时
when I’m convincing Anna that that’s not black.
我们有绿色 海军蓝
We have green, navy.
-早上好 -你好
– Good morning. – Hi.
你好
How are you?
Vogue经销商年度早餐会
巴黎丽兹酒店
你美极了
You look beautiful.
你穿的是Chanel吧
Are you wearing Chanel?
是啊 我想扮成你的客户
Yes, trying to look like your customer.
你本就是我们的客户
You are our customer.
请你先进
So we’ll follow you.
感谢大家每年如期参加早餐会
Thank you for continuing these breakfasts.
我在此代表集团表示早餐会作用很大
I speak for the group, they are very helpful,
伯顿·坦思奇
内曼马库斯百货商场总裁
让我们得以不断
and continue to allow us
加深彼此之间的了解
to get to know each other better and better.
感谢大家抽空莅临
And we thank you for your time.
那我就请萨利开始讲述一下会议的要点
So I’m gonna ask Sally to start talking about our main points.
我们这一季的主打产品是夹克
The key item for us, it seems to be, is the jacket.
萨利·辛格
专题总监
我们要加大力度将秋季刊
We are going to be putting a huge, huge push onto…
打造成夹克的衣橱天地
a wardrobe of jackets for the fall issues.
皮草一直无人问津
Nobody was wearing fur…
直到90年代早期 安娜首次把皮草
until Anna put it back on the cover of Vogue
搬上《Vogue》的封面
…back in the early 90s.
她点燃了整个时尚界的皮草热
And she ignited the entire industry.
我们推崇什么 什么就火
If we get behind something, it sells.
本季Prada一度备受质疑
For once, Prada was in great debate this season.
弗吉尼亚·史密斯
市场总监
安娜对成衣织物很是担心
Anna had a lot of concerns over the fabric…
我方代表您与普拉达女士多次磋商
and spoke with Mrs. Prada, on your behalf many times.
我们认为衣服过于沉重
We thought that the pieces were just so heavy…
不便于穿戴
that you couldn’t wear it.
那弗吉尼亚 有什么他们会重新诠释呢
So, Virginia, what is it that they’re going to reinterpret?
因为我们时间紧迫
Because we really pushed.
他们正在做另一版本的织物
That they are doing a version of fabric…
用的是丝绸和马海毛 不同于厚重的羊毛和马海毛
that is silk and mohair as opposed to the heavy wool, and mohair.
是可降解的织物
It’s a degrade fabric.
太赞了 谢谢大家
Fantastic. Thank you.
好的
Good.
你这个消息让我们这三周都无忧了
You’ve made our week, our three weeks.
让我谈一下非你职权范围的问题
Let me touch on something that may be out of your purview,
但或许你能帮到我们
but maybe you can also help us.
就是商品供货的问题
Deliveries of merchandise.
你想我怎么帮忙呢
What do you want me to do about that?
帮忙租卡车吗
Rent a truck?
请听我来细细解释
I tell you what I’d like you to do.
你对设计师们影响至深
You are so influential with the designers.
不敢当
Not that.
他们要认识到
They have to recognize
全世界对于他们作品的需求
that the worldwide demand for their product
正以他们难以理解的速度扩张
is expanding at a rate that even they don’t understand.
倘若他们的生产无法跟上
And they’re not keeping up with the production,
就会出现供不应求
so that the demand is outstriping supply.
我们也会为供货等待很久
We are waiting longer and longer and longer for deliveries.
货品会在交货排期的末尾送到
They’re coming at the back end of the delivery schedule…
而无法第一时间送达
instead of the front end.
要知道 时尚赐人乐趣 深得大家喜爱
And you know, fashion is fun, and we all love it,
所以大家会趋之若鹜 但是…
and that’s what drives it, but…
-想要马上拥有 -苦无商品供应…
– You want it now. – Without the goods…
贵刊的广♥告♥确实精美绝伦
and the ads in your magazines are fabulous,
我知道今年肯定也有电♥话♥本那么厚 但是…
and I know you’ll look like a telephone book of this year, but…
这一点上你要帮助我们
You’ve gotta help us with this.
所以你有多个选择
So you have a couple of choices.
你可以自给自足
You can start sewing yourselves.
伯特 我觉得你关于编辑的问题
No, I think you said something very interesting, Burt,
说得很对
which is editing.
我认为部分设计师在这一点上仍存在问题
And I think some of the designers do have a problem with that.
我们也正为此努力
And we’re working on that.
我们肯定会支持你 简单就是美
and we will certainly…we are right there with you. Less is more.
Vogue办公室
纽约时代广场
我是说 我下半辈子不能每拍大♥片♥
I mean, I can’t shoot everything for the rest of my life …
史蒂文·梅塞是时尚界最具影响力的摄影师
就跟史蒂文·梅塞到阿尔德山庄取景
…with Steven Meisel in Alder Mansion,
格蕾丝·柯丁顿
创意总监
那栋破房♥根本不堪入目
which is a ugly fucking house.
我正在和史蒂文·卡莱恩讨论《九月刊》的拍摄
I was discussing my Setember shoot with Steven Klein.
史蒂文·卡莱恩
纽约最著名的时尚摄影师之一
我想他很中意这个地点
I think he really likes this location.
这地点偏阴暗 爱德华
It’s sort of gloomy, Edward.
美在哪呢
Where is the glamour?
爱德华·恩宁夫
特约编辑
-这是《Vogue》 懂吗 这个弃用 -弃用
– It’s Vogue, ok? Please let’s…lift it. – Lift it.
她一向快人快语
I don’t find her to be hiden,
她对于无需接近的人
I just don’t find her to be accessible to people
向来不苟言笑
she doesn’t need to be accessible to.
这个我觉得没必要
This, I don’t think we need.
先等他们制♥作♥的成品出来再说
We’ll just wait whatever it is they’re making.
就这样
And that’s it.
-这个 我觉得该放弃 -好的
This, I don’t think we should do. – OK.
这个我看也不行 还有这个
This, I don’t think we should do. This.
她日理万机 她并不热心友好
She’s busy, you know. And she’s not warm and friendly.
因为她可是在工作
She is doing her business.
-这些都太糟了 -是的
– These are all horrible. – Yes.
-我觉得这张太死气沉沉了 -对
– I thought this was pretty weak. – It is.
-那些还需要大量加工 -好的
– That stuff need a lot of work. – OK.
-拜托了 -好的
– All right? – Yes.
因此我需要态度温和
We leave warm to me.
我要代表我们两人对大家热情示好
I’ll have to be warm enough for two of us.
Vogue广♥告♥销♥售♥团队
九月刊启动会议
每当我们发行《Vogue》的九月刊以后
When we put out the Setptember Issue of Vogue,
记者们所关心的第一件事就是
the first thing the report usually ask us is
它有多重
how much does it weigh,
总计多少页
and how many pages.
十分之一的美国女性
One in ten American women,
将近1亿3千万人
almost 13 million people,
会人手买♥♥一本
will get that issue.
几年前 我们曾发行过九月特刊
A few years ago when we put out a record issue of the September,
当时创下了月刊发行纪录
it was the largest monthly magazine ever published.
各位 我们期待突破记录
Guys, we are looking to break that record,
我们要推陈出新
we have to break rules.
我希望在座各位能把《Vogue》当做一个品牌
I want you to go into it like it’s Vogue the brand,
把它当作
and market it like
整整1♥1♥4♥年首次面世的商品来销♥售♥
it’s never been marketed in its entire 1♥1♥4♥ years.
那么 九月刊的封面人物
All right, so September,
西耶娜 我想服装都准备齐全了吧
Sienna, I think we are in excellent shape, right?
西耶娜·米勒
九月刊封面人物试衣架
全件都缀满羽毛
It’s all feathers.
我觉得挺可爱的
I think it’s really cute.
-同意 -是吗
– I do, too. – Do you?
像只鸟
Big bird.
先让组员看过展示的时装
The team sees the collections
然后再召集大家开时尚讨论会议
and then comes back and has fashion meetings.
托尼·古德曼
时装总监