真实的凡尔赛（2016）

全新的款式
Now, these coats are entirely new.
由蓝色布料制成 以金银装点 内衬为红色
Made of blue cloth, covered in gold and silver, lined with red.
只有50人 国王自己 王室公爵和王子亲王之类
Only 50 men, the King, the royal dukes, the princes etc,
才有权穿这件的衣服
were allowed to wear this coat.
能穿上这一身 说明你是国王身边的红人
That really showed you were in with the in crowd.
死后 衣服就会传给下一位
And if you died, your coat would be handed on to the next person
能驾驭这身衣服的人
considered suitable enough to wear it.
他这是胡萝卜加大棒的政策
So he’s using the carrot and the stick.
他们都想赶时髦
They want to look like they’re part of the club,
都想把自己打扮得好看一点
they want to look good.
可一旦坏了规矩 就得接受惩罚 -是这样
And if they break the rules, they get fined. – Yes.
当然 这也满足了路易的自尊心 他的王宫看起来越高贵
And of course, it suited Louis’s ego. The more splendid his court looked,
他就越有面子
the better he looked.
其它欧洲王室都羡慕不已
And was the envy of all Christian princes.
多亏路易 法国成为了高级时装之都
Thanks to Louis, France became the capital of haute couture,
直至今日 依旧如此
something it’s remained to this day.
路易认为 让廷臣们紧跟潮流
And Louis found that forcing his courtiers to follow fashion
也有其他益处
had other advantages.
一整套这样的行头需要花多少钱
So how much of an investment would an outfit like this have been?
领口上有繁复精致的花式纹路
So you have around your collar this bertha, as it’s known.
环绕双肩的花边圆领
This would be the equivalent, around your shoulders, of perhaps
大约等同于一辆顶级跑车 甚至是一艘游艇的价值
a very expensive sports car. Perhaps even a yacht.
长裙以蕾丝装饰
You also have lace upon your gown, down the front
从前襟一路延伸直至裙摆
and all around the hem of the skirt.
再一次象征了你的 亦或你丈夫的财富
Again, just to show your wealth, or your husband’s wealth,
奢侈至极
and your extravagance.
再看露西这件 同样是丝质面料
Now, turning to Lucy, again with your coat made of silk,
以金丝镶边
and of course the gold galloon
竖直走向 遍布外衣前襟
running down the front, vertically on your coat.
细节之处 精妙绝伦
The wonderful detail.
金质纽扣 法国制♥造♥
Lots of buttons, made in France, of gold.
可以说是上乘之作
So, really, everything is the best.
但一套行头可不够
Yet you’ve got to afford not just one outfit, you had to have
实际上 不同场合需要准备不同的服装
lots of different outfits for lots of different occasions.
这是一笔不小的开销
All of which cost a fortune.
这件不错
This one is nice.
这可不是一条裙子
We’ll need more than just a dress,
一只金丝手镯 一条钻石项链就能完事了的
a filigree bracelet and a necklace of diamonds, believe me.
可我们付得起吗
But how will we pay? Oh!
钱的事你就别操心了
Let me worry about that.
如果买♥♥不起怎么办
What happened if they couldn’t afford it?
行头确实昂贵 有人为此倾家荡产
It was so expensive, it would bankrupt people.
你可以以一定的利息标准向国王借款
So you’d borrow from the King, at a certain interest level,
但这会让人难以自拔 在王室债务圈越陷越深
and that gets you deeper in. You’re in a royal circle of debt.
他是高手
It’s incredible how he managed it.
就像一只蜘蛛 编织着巨大的金丝网
Like a spider in the great golden web.
通过时装来炫耀廷臣的财富
It was typically clever of Louis to use fashion to show off his
同时又让他们为此消耗财产
courtiers’ wealth,
这正是路易的聪明之处
while at the same time stripping it away from them.
就像某位侯爵曾说的那样 “在凡尔赛宫 没有真正富裕的人
As one marquis said, “No-one at Versailles was really rich
因为在服饰上 他们倾其所有”
“Because they’d spent their fortunes on all this.”
路易在对待他最亲近的家人-弟弟菲利普时
The ruthless side of Louis’s nature was also evident
本性中残忍♥的一面也有所显露
in his treatment of his closest relative – his brother, Philippe.
把它给我 -我就知道 但凡找到机会
Now, give it to me. – I knew it, the minute you get the chance,
就得贬低我一番
you belittle me again.
弟弟 -说吧 那句万能的话
Brother. – The magic word, what is it?
别忘了你是在和谁说话
Do not forget who addresses you.
你从来都不懂得分享
You never were good at sharing.
纵观历史长河 不难发现
Throughout history, the relationship between a king
国王与弟弟的关系 通常都很微妙
and his younger brother has been tricky.
心怀继位之梦 奈何备胎之命 这可不好受
It’s no fun being the spare when you want to be the heir.
因此 路易和弟弟之间
And the relationship between Louis
关系紧张也就不足为怪
and HIS younger brother was understandably tense.
如果你觉得国王不好当
Do you think it’s hard to be a king?
不妨试试 当一天国王的弟弟
Try being a king’s brother for a day.
路易与菲利普
The differences between Louis and Philippe were clear
自幼性格迥异
from very early on.
照片里的路易还是个小男孩
Here’s Louis as a little boy,
穿着打扮已经具备小国王的气质了
and he’s already dressed as a little king,
神气的小皮靴
in his beautiful leather boots,
红色的马裤以金色流苏缀饰
his red breeches with gold fringing,
礼帽上插有雪白的羽毛饰品
his hat with the white plume.
而这位 第一眼 你也许会看成路易的妹妹
And, at first glance, you might assume this is his sister.
像女孩一样 粉扑扑的脸蛋 穿着裙子
He looks like a girl with pink cheeks and wearing a dress,
可实际上 这是路易的弟弟菲利普
but actually it’s Louis’s younger brother, Philippe.
但也不必大惊小怪
Now, don’t read too much into this.
17世纪 男孩子到了7岁
Little boys in the 17th century were put in dresses
才会穿马裤 换男装
until they were old enough to be breeched at the age of seven,
在此之前 他们都以裙装示人
put into a man’s clothing or breeches.
不过 这次是因为菲利普的母亲
But in this case, the boy’s mother was determined that Philippe
不想让他对路易构成威胁
should never present a threat to Louis.
因此一直把他当女孩养
To this end, she nurtured his feminine side.
她叫他”我的小丫头”
She called him “My little girl”,
并鼓励他穿裙装
and she always encouraged him to wear dresses.
这对菲利普产生了长久的影响
This had a lasting impact on Philippe.
菲利普 奥尔良公爵
Philippe, Duc d’Orleans.
成年后 菲利普也会时不时打扮成女人
As an adult, Philippe sometimes chose to dress up as a woman,
他爱好女装
and he loved ladies clothing.
有宫廷史官称
One court chronicler said
菲利普经常男扮女装
that he was always decked out like a woman,
“戴满戒指
“Covered everywhere with rings,
手镯 珠宝 头顶黑色长假发
bracelets and jewels, with a long black wig.
脚踩恨天高
He also wore such high heels
看上去像是在踩高跷”
that he looked like he was wearing stilts.”
很高兴你能来 -不胜荣幸
So good of you to come. -A pleasure.
你在鞋子上花了5万
You spent 50,000 on shoes.
你是没见过那双鞋
Well, you haven’t seen the shoes.
拉法耶特夫人写道[法国小说家]
Madame de La Fayette said that
“想要点燃这位亲王心中的爱之火焰
“The miracle of inflaming the heart of this prince
绝非女人能办到的
was not reserved for any woman.”
菲利普与英格兰的亨利埃塔完婚
Philippe was married to Henrietta of England,
然而他的真爱是洛林骑士
but his true love was the Chevalier de Lorraine.
英俊潇洒 一头金发 身份显赫
A handsome, blond-haired nobleman of princely rank.
他和菲利普住在一起 可以说是一名公认的情夫
He lived with Philippe, and was a sort of male official mistress.
好混乱的婚姻关系
It was a crowded marriage.
菲利普尽显阴柔之气
Philippe flaunted his femininity.
所有人都知道他有男宠
Everybody knew that he had male lovers.
一方面 这让路易蒙羞
On the one hand, this was an embarrassment to Louis, but on
可另一方面 菲利普也充分衬托了路易的明智贤能
the other, it meant that Philippe served as a foil to the King.
兄弟二人完美互补
They were two halves of a whole, a perfect double act.
菲利普身上男子气概的缺失
Philippe’s lack of manliness
更加映衬了路易的强腕
only served to emphasise Louis’s masculinity.
可出人意料的是
But, as it turned out,
爱鞋如命的菲利普
and perhaps surprisingly for a man who loved shoes so much,
有朝一日竟在关键时刻反超了哥哥路易
Philippe would upstage his brother in one crucial area.
菲利普一直想成为一名战士
Philippe dreamed of being a soldier.
17世纪70年代 法国与荷兰交战
In the 1670s, when France was at war with Holland,
菲利普请求为国效力
he demanded to join the action.
邦当
Bontemps.
我有利剑 盔甲 骏马
I have a sword, armour and a horse.
为何要延迟 我什么时候才能奔赴沙场
Why the delay? When will I go to war?
国王还没有定好日子
The King has not yet set a date.
那我现在该做些什么呢
What am I supposed to do until then?
1677年春
In the spring of 1677,
法军向法国北部敌军抢占的城镇发起迅疾反♥攻♥
the French launched a rapid attack on enemy-held towns in northern France.
菲利普终于如愿以偿 奔赴前线
Philippe was finally posted to the front line.
卡塞尔一战
At the Battle of Cassel, he commanded the troops
菲利普亲自率军攻伐
and personally led the charge.
目击者称 菲利普像掷弹兵一样冲到前锋
Eyewitnesses said that he charged like a grenadier.
英勇无畏 使得士气大振 军队屡创奇迹
Philippe fought so bravely that his troops were inspired to perform miracles.