实话实说,很孤独
I met this girl named Becca.
后来遇到了Becca
[Becca]We started dating.
我们就开始约会了
He was thoughtful and considerate,
他很体贴周到
but from the beginning, it was pretty obvious
不过从一开始,就挺明显
his mind was completely occupied by the Dawn Wall.
他的全部关注是黎明墙
It wasn’t just a climb.
这不是一次简单的攀爬
It was all consuming.
这是全部的投入
We were trying to build a relationship.
我们准备建立稳定关系
But he would go out to Yosemite for months at a time,
但他需要隔一段时间就去优胜美地
giving everything to the Dawn Wall.
把一切都投入到黎明墙
Long For years, Tommy put his whole life on hold
多年以来,Tommy把他的全部生活都后置了
so he could give every last ounce of his body and soul
这样才能把他所有的心身
to this impossible quest.
都投放进这个不可能的探索中
[Kevin] I could never tell if we were wasting our time
我永远也不知道,到底我们是在浪费时间呢
or we were in pursuit of something grand.
还是我们在追求某些崇高的目的
Come on! 加油
[Becca] I’d go out to Yosemite
我也来到优胜美地
and I’d watch him from the meadow.
从草地上举头看他
It looked completely ridiculous.
看起来太荒谬了
Ah, shoot. 嚓
I think we all admire people who are dedicated.
我想我们都对奉献者赞美有加
But at some point, you start to wonder,
但,有时,你会想
where are the lines between dedication and obsession?
奉献和沉迷,之间的界限到底是什么?
[Dad] He was going through emotional agony.
他正在经历情感上的苦难
This climb has been gut wrenching.
攀爬是痛苦的
I want this for him so badly.
我是如此之渴望
[Tommy] Argh! 啊
-[Mom] Oh, he fell off. 吖,掉下来了
-Oh.
[Kelly] Man. I mean, you’ve failed on this thing 800 times.
兄弟,我说,你已经失败800次了
How can you continue to beat your head against this wall?
怎么才能继续头顶着墙攀岩下去呀?
[Kevin]After years of effort,
经年的努力
it didn’t feel like we were any closer to our dream.
我们甚至都没有更接近梦想一点点
[Becca] He’s worked so hard.
他是这么用心
Why am I crying right now?
我怎么就哭了呢?
This project! Argh!
这个计划,啊
[Dad] This makes me wonder
我想到
if he bit off more than he could chew.
如果他能咬牙顶住,而不是咽下
Oh, it’s so good to have you down.
哎,你能下来真是太棒了
[Tommy] After all this failure, I started to wonder
重重失败以后我开始想
if maybe this climb really was impossible.
这个攀岩真是不可行
Maybe I wasn’t good enough.
也许我还不够厉害
-[Kevin] Morning. 早上好
-[Tommy] Morning. 早上好
[Tom]Tommy and Kevin have been up there, this is their 8th day.
Tommy和Kevin,已经在岩墙上,是第八天了
They’re halfway up the Wall.
他们已经半墙高
They got past 70 mile an hour winds, the ice falls.
他们经历了时速70英里的风暴,落冰
They climbed a lot of difficult rock.
他们爬过许多困难的大石
Now they’ve got today a very hard section to do.
此刻,他们今天要做一件巨难的事
They’re here. They’ve got to go across this traverse.
在这儿,他们要横着穿越窄道
140, I think it is.
我觉得有140 尺
If they can get that done, they’re well on their way.
一旦穿越过去,后面就好办了
[Long] The hardest individual part of this 3,000 foot puzzle
3000英尺迷局之中,最难的个体部分
is the traverse.
就是横道穿越
The bottom section of the route
线路的底部
follows a vague series of cracks and corners in the rock.
紧接着一系列的岩石缝隙和戳出来的石块
But after 1,000 feet, those cracks and corners dead end.
但1000英尺以后,这些缝隙和石头戳角就隐没了
300 feet to the left, there’s another series of features
左侧的300英尺,才有一串石缝
that angles up to the top.
曲折上升
The trick is,
问题是
how do you traverse this 300 foot blank section
怎么才能通过这300英尺的空白墙面
right in the middle of the Wall?
正正在岩墙中♥央♥?
[Kevin] There’s this band of rock
这一岩块
that’s a slightly different color and texture.
从颜色和质地,都有点不一样
[Long] Everything above and below it
之上和之下
is impossible to free climb.
完全无法抱石攀爬
But the composition of that band
可是,就是这一块构造
is such that it has a few holds on it.
结构如此这番,几乎无手可下
[Kevin] Over the last six years, we spent over 100 days
过去的六年里,我们花了一百多天
trying to get across this traverse.
企图横穿窄道
[Tommy] Thousands of tries on that single pitch.
就在这单一的绳距,已经尝试了数千遍
I’ve never done it.
我从未成功
[Kevin] Now we have to do it for the very first time…
现在,我们要第一次跨越
[Tom] Looks like Tommy’s getting ready.
Tommy 看起来准备好了
[Kevin]…in the moment, on the push.
这一刻,出发
Go get it.
祝成功
[Tommyl It’s really unnerving.
充满紧张的时刻
You’re just waiting to slip off at any moment.
任何时间都可能掉下、滑下
[KeIIy] It’s kind of funny.
有点荒唐可笑
This 3,000 foot wall, and it’s coming down to millimeters
3千英尺高的岩墙,只有几毫米的地方
of skin contact on your fingertips.
给指尖的一点点皮肤可以接触
It becomes such a zoomed-in world.
它几乎就像到了微观世界
[Kevin] There’s one way to get across,
只有一条路可以通过
and it is made up of all these little sequences
由最小的单位组成
that have to be done perfectly.
只有完美无误的动作才能完成
You miss a hold, it’s impossible.
失去一个握抓,就前功尽弃
[Tommyl Yeah, dude. 是呀,哥们
[Kevin] You grab it wrong, it’s impossible.
抓错地方,也一样前功尽弃
[Tommy] Nice. 好
[Kevin] We’re trading attempts.
我们正在尝试
Tommy ties in and just flips that switch.
Tommy 试了进去,接触开始点
Alright. Go get it, Tommy.
不错,继续,Tommy
[Tommy] You grab these sharp holds,
抓到这锋利的握抓点
like razor blades.
就像抓在刀片上
[Kevin] Come on! 加油
[Tommy] Span as far as you can.
尽可能展开身体
[Kevin] Come on!加油哦
[Tommy] So stretched out.
如此之展开
I suddenly felt this confidence.
突然我就感到了自信
I knew exactly how each finger was going onto each hold,
知道每一节手指怎么做到彼此相握
where the little ripples on the rock were digging into my shoes.
岩石上的碎屑渗透进鞋子里
After years of working on that pitch,
只要你在这样绳距上多年努力
it just came together in this amazing, magical way.
它就会以惊人又神奇的方式组合起来
[Kevin] Yes, come on!
赞,加油
Come on! 加油
Whoa! 哇
[Crowd] Whoo! 呼呼
Ow—ow—ow—ow!
[Long] When I heard that Tommy had done pitch 15,
我听到Tommy完成15绳距时
that was like,“You’ve got to be kidding me!”
几乎以为:这不是开玩笑吧
For the first time,
第一次
these guys actually have a shot at maybe doing this thing.
他们俩激起可以完成攀登的希望
[Kevin] When Tommy got across,
当Tommy完成穿越
it was a big moment.
真是伟大一刻呀
Everything was rolling, and now it was my turn.
都可以翻页的,此刻我要去尝试
Over the years, we realized
过去很多年间,我们都认识到
sometimes the best conditions are at night.
最佳的攀岩点是夜间
It’s colder. It’s drier.
既寒冷、又干燥
So there’s better friction on the rock.
因此岩石的缝隙更合适(抓握)
At first, it’s scary.
开始时,这挺吓人的
But after a while, you forget how high off the ground you are
但过一会儿,就会忘记你距离地面的高度
and you can focus just on the climbing.
于是就能专注在攀爬上
[Groaning]
Tried it a few times.
试过几次
I wasn’t that close.
无法靠近
We rappelled back to our camp below the traverse.
我们放绳回到窄道之下的大本营
I was stoked for Tommy, a little stressed for myself.
我给Tommy做了吃的,自己则挺紧张
[Long] So Tommy’s made it through the traverse.
这样Tommy就完成了横穿窄道
He still has to get past the Dyno
他还有 the Dyno 这个绳距要完成
and the Long Run to Wino Tower.
还有从the Long Run 到 Wino Tower 的绳距
But first, he has to wait for Kevin to catch up.
但首先,他要等Kevin 赶上来
[Phone rings]
[Tommy] Hello? 喂
[Branch]‘Hey, guys. This is John Branch from the NY Times.
嗨,哥们,我是《纽♥约♥时♥报♥》的John Branch
-‘How’s it going up there?’ 你们怎样?
-Tommy]Good, John. 挺好,John
[Branch]‘Tommy, I know that you made it to 15 last night.
Tommy,知道你昨晚完成了15绳距
‘It’s very exciting,
真令人激动兴奋
‘so I appreciate you guys taking just a few minutes to talk.’