黎明墙（2017）

同时期待Kevin 最终克服15绳距
and he can catch up.
然后他可以追赶上来
[Kevin]That night, we go up our fixed lines
那天夜里，我们出发到已经固定的线路
and I belay Tommy on pitch 16, the Dyno pitch.
我帮Tommy准备16绳距，the Dyno 绳距
[Tommy] I had tried the Dyno move
我曾经试过在 Dyno 绳距那里移♥动♥
hundreds of times over the years.
过去几年间，有上百次吧
Never done it.
从未成功过
I’d rebuilt it on the shed at my home,
我在自己家里重建了一个木棚
so I could just practice this one stupid move.
为了我能够练习这个蠢笨的动作
Just before we went for our final push
直到出发去最终的攀岩时刻
I was completely frustrated,
整个人都不好了，崩溃
staring at these photos of the Wall.
盯着岩墙的这些图片
I started to notice cracks and edges that go down and around.
我开始关注上下左右的细缝和突角
So I came up with this idea
于是有了一个想法
to do the most ridiculous pitch of climbing.
来完成这个最荒谬的攀爬
[Kevin] His idea was to just climb in a giant circle
他想的是，用大回环的方式爬上去
around the Dyno. I was like, “Really?”
就是在Dyno绳距那里。我表示说：真的？
[Brett] So to get around about eight feet…?
就为了这八英尺？
[Tommy] Yeah, climb like 200.
是呀，要爬200
Tommy’s currently working out the world’s hardest down climb.
Tommy正在做的是，世上最艰难的下岩
We do hard moves going straight up, hard moves going sideways.
我们一般是攀上，更难的是水平移♥动♥
I should add a down climb.
我要加上一个下移攀爬动作
That way, we just get the full package.
这样，我们把攀岩的动作就弄完整了
Down climbing, it’s so unnatural.
下岩攀爬，是如此不自然
[Tommyl Falling. 跌
[Kevin] It’s like running backwards.
这就像往后跑
[Tommy] That felt horrible.
恐怖
[Kevin] Good, Tommy.
不错，Tommy
Nice. 挺棒
Come on. Focus.
加油，集中注意力
Good. 赞
[KeIIy] This loop pitch,
这个回环绳距
it’s like walking around the block to cross the street.
就好比兜了一圈穿过街道
It is just a little bit ridiculous.
看起来挺荒唐
But it’s also kind of brilliant.
但真的是才华横溢
[Kevin] Come on. 加油
Come on. 加油啦
[KeIIy] This thing that had been shutting him down
阻碍他的这个东西
for all these years,
阻碍了这么多年
and then he just looks at it with a new set of eyes
然后现在他用一个新的视角去看它
and finds a new solution.
就找到了新的解决方案
[Tommy] Yeah. 耶
The Dyno!
Whoo! 呜哈哈
[Tommy] How is the skin, dude?
兄弟，皮肤好些没？
It’s not healing very quickly,
恢复不快
which is frustrating.
这一点最令人沮丧
[Long] While Kevin’s waiting for his fingers to heal,
当Kevin等着他手指复原时
Tommy continued pushing the route higher and higher.
Tommy 已经把绳距往上推的越来越高
What you do every day is,
你每天要做的是
you get to a high point, and then you leave fixed ropes
上到一个更高的绳距，把绳索固定住
that go back down to the camp.
然后下到大本营
The next day, you motor back up the ropes to the high point
第二天，开动，把绳索推向另一个高绳距
and then carry on.
这样不断前行
So, even though they might be working
因此，尽管他们俩
on different parts of the Wall,
在岩墙的不同部位忙乎
they’re doing it together. Kevin belays Tommy,
他们其实是一起搭档的。Kevin 给Tommy 放绳索
and once Tommy’s done, they both go back down to the camp.
等Tommy完成后，他们俩一起下回到大本营
[Kevin] Tommy’s just forging on.
Tommy 不断推进着
Every pitch gets him further away from where I’m stuck.
每一个绳距的前推，都把我卡壳的地方甩的越来越远
[Tommyl One more down.
接着下去吧
[Kevin]There’s so much distance between our high points
我们之间的最高绳距，彼此距离越来越远
that I’m not going to be able to close that gap
我没有可能把这个差距填补上了
in a reasonable amount of time
在可能的合理时间内
unless I do this.
除非我已经做到（完成15绳距）
[Tommy] Every time I would look over in his portaledge
每次我看到他在悬空帐篷里
he would just be following news updates,
他在看新闻更新
staring at his fingertips,
一边看他的手指尖
mumbling to himself.
一边叨叨着什么
[Kevin] Trying to convince myself these actually look good.
试着说服自己这还是挺好的
Tommy, do you have the Ibuprofen?
Tommy，你有没有布洛芬？
Oh, yeah. 有
[Kevin] After two days resting, I felt resolved.
又休息两天后，我觉得需要有一个了结
This was the day it had to happen.
该发生的就是该让它发生
It’s still pretty warm out.
天气还比较暖和
And so I’m going to wait a few more hours
所以要再等几个钟点
for the temperatures to drop even more
等温度降下去
to give myself every bit of friction you can.
给自己尽可能的摩擦力
[Tommy] You ready? 准备好了没？
[Kevin] Ready as I’m ever going to be.
像以前一样，准备好了
I’ve been waiting for days for the skin to heal,
我已经等了多天，等皮肤愈合
for this moment to come.
等着这一刻来到
There’s a nice cold breeze blowing up the wall.
凉风轻吹着岩壁
I felt weightless.
我觉得自己身轻如燕
I was just floating across the pitch.
我几乎要漂浮过这个绳距
[Tommy] Hold it together.
抓牢
[Groans]
Come on, Kevin. Do it, man.
加油，Kevin，兄弟，做吧
You got it.
你可以的
Come on. 加油
You got it. 快了
Come on. Find it.
加油，找到那个点
Good. Come on.
不错。加油啦
Argh!
[Tommy] Oh, that was so good, dude.
兄弟，还是挺棒的了
[Kevin] Everything was perfect, and I still didn’t do it.
万事俱备，结果我还是失败了
[Matt] Come on, Kevin.
加油，Kevin
[Kevin] I tried four times that night.
那个晚上我试了四次
Fucker! 鬼
[Man] He’s off.
又摔下来了
[Kevin] I just kept falling.
我不断掉下来
Shit! 狗屎
Tonight… 今晚
…didn’t go so well.
真不顺
It was a battle, and I didn’t win.
这是战斗，我就是没有赢下来
It was pretty clear that that was it.
它就像
Like, you had your chance.
比如，你是有机遇的
You weren’t good enough.
但你还不够好
Yeah, it’s pretty fucked.
是呀，真是糟透了。
Now you’re the guy that almost climbed the Dawn Wall.
此刻你几乎就是要成功登上黎明墙的人了
So how much did you enjoy that process?
完成这过程的满足度有多少？
Because that’s all you get.
因为这是你应得的
[Branch] Editors and I started talking.
我和编辑们讨论
Is it now time to do a story about what happens
是不是该写出这个故事
if he doesn’t make it?
但他并没有完成
We all want happy endings, but as a journalist, you’re like
我们都喜欢大团圆结局，可是，作为记者
“That’s an incredible story.”
你应该明白，不可思议的故事是什么
What’s the ethos in climbing?
攀登的精神是什么？
Do you say, you go ahead without me?
你想问，就这样你自己前进了
Do you leave a guy behind?
把同伴拉着后面
Are they having this conversation
他们是否在黑夜中的悬空帐篷里
in the portaledge at night?
聊过这些？
[RainfaII]
This would be nice to check the radar.
查看雷达可能会有用些
[kevin] The next day, the weather was starting to get bad.
第二天，天气更糟
And I knew what I needed to do.
我知道我需要做什么
[Tommy] 20%.
[Kevin] Today? 今天吗？
[Tommy] Next like four days.
之后还要有四天
I’m just going to throw in the towel
我准备撑到 the Towel
and support Tommy to the top.
支持Tommy 一直到成功登顶
[Long] From here on out,
从这时候开始
Kevin’s just going to belay Tommy
Kevin一心帮助Tommy放绳索
and follow him up the ropes.
跟他上绳索
So they go up to Tommy’s high point,
所以他们一点点把Tommy 的最高绳距提升
where he starts up the last hard pitches
直到他通过那几个最艰难的绳距
of the long run to Wino Tower.
达到Wino Tower
[Kevin] There I was, watching Tommy
我就在那儿，看着Tommy
climb with so much confidence
充满信心地攀爬
toward the completion of this dream.
攀上他的梦圆点
Even if I can’t do this, I was really happy for Tommy.