登山家（2021）

回去看你 因为我爱…
and come back and see you, cos I’d love to…
好了 再见
just… yeah, see you.
我爱你
I love you.
我在早上5点左右醒来
I woke up at around five in the morning,
从睡袋探出头看了一眼 一场全面的暴风雪开始了
peeked outside my sleeping bag. A full snowstorm was starting.
现在 我必须尽快打包好
Now, I just have to pack up as quick as I can
在暴风雪中迅速下山
and rappel the whole mountain in blizzard conditions.
我希望一切顺利
I hope it goes well,
因为下山路漫长复杂
cos it’s a long and complicated way down.
该死
Holy shit!
好了 我回到了居所
Well, I’m back in my tent.
很抱歉我说了我到不了山顶
I am sorry to say that I did not reach the summit.
不过 我活下来了
But… I survived,
我认为这很重要
which I think counts for a lot.
有些失望 因为只要再爬四个坡段就登顶了
Kind of a bummer, cos I made it within four pitches of the top.
不过 这依然是我最好的独自登山尝试之一
It was still probably one of my very best solo efforts in the mountains,
只是为了坚持下去
just in terms of sticking with it
并且非常接近 而且
and coming really close, and…
还有 你知道 我总是说
And, you know I always said…
因为我一直梦想着尝试独自攀爬艾格峰
Cos I’ve always dreamed of trying to solo Egger
我总是说
and I always said
如果你自己在艾格峰顶部附近
that if you got caught in bad weather
遭遇恶劣天气
near the top of Egger by yourself,
那就是终极噩梦 事实上 噩梦发生了
that’s the ultimate nightmare, and it actually happened to me,
我做得很好 所以
and I made it down just fine, so…
这算是一种 一种很酷的事情 我想
That’s kind of… That’s cool, I guess.
听说马克成功下山
I was relieved to hear
我如释重负
that Marc had made it back down.
经过如此艰难的挣扎
And after such a close scrape,
我想他会飞回家
I figured he would just fly home,
没成功 但是安全返回
unsuccessful, but safe.
真是太令人惊讶了 这次登山有点累
Well, it’s amazing just feeling how tired I am from that climb.
但是马克不能放过的
But Marc couldn’t let it go.
从天气预报中 他看见了另一个天气窗口
He saw another weather window in the forecast,
窗口期比上一次还短
this one even shorter than the last.
星期五 有半天的好天气
And on Friday, you have half of a good day,
晚上天气不错
and overnight’s good.
于是他决定再爬一次
And he decided to go for it, again.
这次 他提高的赌注
This time, he was raising the stakes.
因为我已经了解线路
Because I already know the route,
我确定我可以在一天之内完成这条线路
I decided I could do the route in a day
无需携带任何睡觉用的东西
without carrying any bivvy equipment.
不过 我可没有在山上
But I won’t have the option
睡觉的打算
of sleeping up there on the mountain.
为了完成登顶
I have to go really light and move fast
我必须轻装速行
in order to get it done.
出发
Here we go.
马克在第二次尝试时
For his second attempt,
仅背了个小包
Marc would carry just a small pack
没带睡袋 没带多余的食物
with no sleeping bag, no extra food.
仅仅携带了轻快攀爬的基本工具
Just the basic tools to climb light and fast.
出发爬山的那个夜晚
Starting the climb that night,
他希望自己能够在风暴间隙
he hoped he could get to the summit and back down
完成登顶并返回
before the next storm crashed in.
祝你好运 马克！
Good luck, Marc!
现在是凌晨5点40
Well, it’s45 in the morning
我回到了悬冰川顶上的
and I’m back at my first bivvy site
第一个睡眠地
on top of the hanging glacier.
只花了几个小时就到达了
It’s only taken me a couple of hours to get here.
所以 这是个不错的开端
So, yeah, off to a good start.
我只是想要…
I’m just going for it,
在这座大山上进行一次小小的冒险
just this tiny little adventure on this huge mountain.
太阳升起来了
Well, the sun’s rising.
看看这有多不可思议
Check out how incredible this is.
我已经完成一半多的路程
I’m more than halfway up the route already.
我在上坡
Well, I’m in the upper ramp.
进展顺利
Things are working out.
我在艾格峰顶上了！
I’m on the summit of Egger!
超级兴奋！
Super psyched!
哇哦！
Whoo!
看看这个
Yeah, look at this!
天啊
Holy smokes!
去托瑞-艾格峰徒手攀岩
To solo Torre Egger
似乎是将我学会的各种技能
seemed like the perfect combination
完美结合起来了
of everything I’d learned how to do.
就像是我的全部生命把我带到了一个特定的地方
It’s almost like my whole life leading me to a certain place.
干得好 伙计
Nice work, dude.
你好
Yo.
-怎么样 伙计？ -感觉如何？
-How’s it going, dude? -How do you feel?
-完美 -是的 感觉很棒
-Perfect. -Yeah, things are awesome.
在举起庆功酒之前
No alpine ascent is truly complete
登山并不算真正完成
until the beers go clink.
-干杯 -干杯 伙计
-Cheers. -Cheers, man.
-你好 -你好
-Se.-Se.
你长大后
When you grow up…
要回国了 兴奋吗？
Psyched to be going back to States?
想到马上要见到布雷特
Yeah, I’m super stoked to see Brette
和加拿大的家人 我非常激动
and eventually see the family back up in Canada.
出租车来了
There’s the taxi.
我得去协商一下 因为我没有比索（当地货币）
I have to negotiate, cos I don’t have pesos.
马克下山后
When Marc comes out of the mountains,
他放射着能量
he has this, like, radiating energy.
他经历了一些极端体验
He’s had some sort of extreme experience
这种经历使他比任何其他人都深刻
that had moved him deeper than anything else could have.
当你带着使命感登山时
When you’re in the mountains with a mission,
就像生活中所有表面的东西
it’s like all
the superficialities of life
都蒸发掉了一样
just sort of evaporate,
你尝尝会发现自己处于一种更深的精神状态中
and you can often find yourself in a deeper state of mind,
在一次重大攀登之后 这种状态会持续一段时间
and that can stick with you for a while after a big climb.
你会感激一切
You appreciate everything so much
包括那些在平时你认为理所当然的事情
that you take for granted most of the time.
这很有趣
It’s kind of funny.
成就并没有像你想象的那样
The actual achievement doesn’t really change your life
真正改变你的生活 当你在为之努力的时候
like you think it might, when you’re building up to it,
但是你剩下的是一段旅程
but what you’re left with is the journey
这段旅程把你带到了那一点
that got you to that point
如果你有一段伟大的旅程
and if you have this big journey
你必须弄明白很多事情
where you had to figure a lot of stuff out,
你必须要有计划 更具沉浸感
and you had to plan, and it was more immersive,
然后你在一个非常美丽的地方
and then you were somewhere really beautiful
呆了很长一段时间 然后必须非常努力地工作
for a long time, and then had to work really hard,
克服某种心理障碍
and overcome some kind of mental barrier,
你会有更多的故事
you’re left with so much more of a story
或者 记忆和经历
or, like, a memory and an experience.
而那才是我所发现的最重的东西
And that’s what I find is the most important.
拍摄马克登山的两年时间
For two years filming Marc’s climbs,
就像试图在瓶子里捕捉闪电
it was like trying to capture lightning in a bottle.
现在 该完成影片了
Now, it was time to assemble the film
也该让马克回归野外了
and release Marc back into the wild.
他还有很多山要爬
He still had so many mountains to climb.
好的 布雷特 我安全了
OK, Brette, I’m secure!
你好 伙计
Hey, dude.
这就是我认为这个故事会结束的地方
And that is where I thought this story would end.
不过在我们剪辑时
But while we were editing,
马克正在寻找攀登阿♥拉♥斯加朱诺的天气窗口
Marc chased a weather window up to Juneau, Alaska,
在那里 他遇到了当地很强的登山者
where he met up with a strong local climber,
莱恩·约翰逊
Ryan Johnson.
组成了一个登山团队 带着绳子
Climbing as a team, with a rope,
在曼登霍塔的
they made a first ascent
北面进行了第一次攀登