登山家（2021）

还有接下来的帝王壁
and then the Emperor Face.
这一切都是攀爬艾格峰的准备
It was all sort of preparation with Egger in mind.
去查查天气模型
Just gonna check weather models.
一天中 我会查好几次这些天气模型
I check all these models multiple times a day.
星期五早上 风卷起 刮得很急
Friday morning, the wind rolls in, with precip.
当两条线靠得很近时
When the lines are close together,
意味着有很多风
that means a lot of wind.
山峰正在遭受风暴袭击
The peaks right now are just getting nuked.
我们必须待在镇上 等待天气窗口
We have to hang out in town and wait for a weather window.
在冬季独自来到这里
Coming down here by yourself in the winter time…
你会关注查尔腾镇的生活
…you become immersed in the El Chalten life.
和本地人玩乐
Hanging out with the locals.
他们会把你当做家人
And they’re making you part of the family.
没错 这实际上是整个经历的重要组成部分
Yeah, it’s actually like a big part of the whole experience.
查一下最新天气预报
Just checking the latest meteogram.
周二 周三天气 看起来不错
Looks good, like, Tuesday, Wednesday.
-什么意思 -意思是我们要去爬山了
-What does that mean? -Means we’re going climbing.
独自爬山的关键是
Part of the crux of soloing in these mountains
你必须携带的东西的数量
is the amount of stuff that you have to carry.
很重
It’s pretty heavy.
比如 当你不得不把一切都背在背上的时候
Like, when you have to put everything on your back
就像是 戴着背包徒手攀岩
and just, like, solo with the pack on.
这个包 像是被撕开了 我录下来了
This bag, like, ripped open. I’ve taped it shut.
少了一半的保温层 意味着更轻了
It’s lost half its insulation. It just means it’s even lighter.
超级轻
It’s even more super light.
我不想搞得太凄凉或宿♥命♥论♥
Well, I don’t wanna sound grim or fatalistic,
不过 你知道 不可否认的是
but it’s, you know, undeniable
每次你去山上
that every time you go to the mountains,
都可能是你的最后一次
it could be your last time,
所以你得感激所有你喜欢的东西
so all these things that you love you have to appreciate.
无论晚餐是什么 可能都是你最后一顿
Whatever dinner you’d want to possibly be your last dinner,
必须吃下去
you have to eat it.
因为你要去爬山了
Cos you’re going to the mountains.
没错
Yeah.
整个游戏非常简单
The whole game is very simple.
我们去了不该去的地方
We go somewhere that we should not go.
本能告诉我们 “不要去那里”
Where our own instinct is telling us, “Do not go there.”
可能发生各种事
Many things can happen.
可能坠落
We can fall.
可能被暴风雪吹走
The storm can take me away.
我们知道也可能死在那里
We know that we could die up there.
不过 我们仍然要去那里
But still, we go there.
我们在努力实现自己的梦想
We try to make real our dreams.
我们的愿景
Our visions.
我花了一年时间想象这次攀爬
I had spent a whole year imagining this climb,
我感觉自己有技能完成这次攀爬
and I felt like I had the skills to do it,
需要所有的技能
and it would require all of them.
但我根本不知道线路是怎样的
But I don’t know the route whatsoever.
也不知道会发生什么 也无法预料
No idea how this is gonna go. Like, no idea what to expect.
现在的条件肯定很艰苦
Conditions are definitely tough right now.
你可以看见我的足迹
You can see my trail there.
我真的是在挖一条沟
I was literally digging through a trench,
穿过齐胸深的雪 上面有雪风板
through chest-deep snow with wind slab on top,
我想沟壑中悬冰川上
and I think there could be a lot of this kind of snow
可能会有很多这样的雪
on the hanging glacier in the gully.
这不仅是一项艰苦的工作
And not only is it really hard work,
而且我认为很可能造成危险的雪崩
I think avalanche conditions could be quite dangerous.
所以我要过去看看岩石怎么样
So I’m gonna go over and see how the rock is
看看它是否会消失
and see if that goes.
我从一块被雪覆盖的岩石开始
I started on really snowed-up rock,
花了很长时间
which took quite a long time.
嗯 两次攀岩
Well, two pitches of climbing
事实上 这有点可憎
and it’s kind of heinous, actually.
这是我的足迹
Here’s my tracks.
我得沿着冰塔边缘走
I have to go tack along the edge of that serac
在顶上搭帐篷
and bivvy on top of it.
攀登既艰难又缓慢 情况很糟糕
The climbing was hard and slow. Conditions were awful.
我想这条路是往上走的
I think the route goes up there.
我不得不不断地摘下手套
I had to keep taking my gloves off.
我的手冻麻了
My hands were numb because of the cold.
几乎在冰川的顶端
Almost on top of the glacier.
目前绝对有挑战性
Definitely challenging so far.
这是我的背包 我正在往上拉
There’s my backpack that I’m hauling up.
看看我的手
Check out my hands.
我的手指在流血
My fingers were bleeding
一切都不太好
and everything was just kind of gnarly.
好了 我到了悬冰川顶上
Well, here I am at the top of the hanging glacier
今晚算是安顿好了
and I’m settled in for the night.
我原本希望能爬到比这个冰脊
I originally hoped to be six pitches higher than this
高六个坡段的地方 不过没有我想的那么快
on the snow arete. Not going as fast as I wanted to.
离开那个悬冰川
You split left off of that hanging glacier
而后你会到东边冰柱
and that brings you to the snow arete
中间的冰脊上
in the middle of the east pillar.
现在我来到了一条好走的路上
I’ve come a good ways now.
这就是我昨天想要爬上的冰脊
Here’s the snow arete that I wanted to make it to yesterday,
可是 你知道 事情就是这样
but, you know, it just goes how it goes.
上面是陡壁 我们去看看
There’s the upper headwall, so we’ll see.
我可能要继续走
I might be able to keep going
即便我多挖了计划之外的
even if I have to make one extra bivvy,
临时居所
one more than planned.
你要不断地换鞋
You’re switching constantly
一会是靴子 一会是冰爪 一会又要换上攀岩鞋
between boots, crampons and rock shoes.
你会爬一段冰坡
You’ll climb an ice pitch
然后突然之间 你爬上了一块岩柱
and then all of a sudden, you’re on a rock pillar climbing 5.10.
或者是在一些很窄的
Or mixed climbing
冰沟中混合攀岩
through some narrow gully filled with ice.
十八般武艺都用上了
It’s just, like, everything in the repertoire.
我在上坡道
Well, I’m in the upper ramp,
顺着路线往下看
looking down the route.
哇！
Whoo!
当你遇到这样的情况时
When you encounter a situation
你会说“好吧 这是真的
where you’re like, “OK, this is real.
我要么全部完成
I can either keep it together and do this
要么崩溃掉”
or I can, like, fall apart and have a meltdown.”
总得选一个
You gotta do one or the other.
评估一下状态和过程
And that process of evaluating the situation,
然后整合一下 继续下去
and then getting it together, and carrying on,
每次都是一个挑战
it’s a challenge every time.
好吧 坚持下去 一切都会好起来的
Well, persevering, and things are working out.
景色真不错
Quite the view.
我正在陡壁中间
I’m literally in the middle of the headwall.
我要踩着这个令人眩晕的小平台睡觉
I’m stomping out this sick little platform to sleep on,
这是我能找到的唯一的临时居所 相当棒
the only place I could find to bivvy, which is super cool.
今晚屁♥股♥会冻坏的
I’m gonna freeze my ass off tonight,
那是一定的 不过还好
that’s for sure, but that’s OK.
昨天 进展很艰难、缓慢
Yesterday, progress was so slow and difficult
令人沮丧
that it was kind of discouraging,
不过我现在的位置很好
but now I’m in a really good position
便于明早像峰顶进发
to go for the summit tomorrow morning.
已经很近了
I’m only a few pitches away.
所以只要天气稳定 我就很兴奋
So as long as the weather holds, I’m psyched.
布莱特 这是给你拍的视频
Hey, Brette, this video’s for you.
我就是想…
I just wanted to, uh…
我独自一人
let you know that when I’m out here
在山里
in these mountains by myself,
我很想你
I really miss you.
我一直在想你
And I’m thinking about you a lot,
还有我的愿望
and there’s a part of me that…
希望能够尽快回到地面
wishes I could just quickly rap to the ground,
离开这里 坐上我的航♥班♥
and get out of here, and change my flights,