登山家（2021）

随时崩塌的冰塔
seracs that can collapse at any time.
你必须学会读懂
You have to learn to read the signals
大山发出的信♥号♥♥
that the mountains are sending you.
雪和冰的状态
The conditions of the snow, the ice,
什么时候会有太阳
what time of day is it gonna get sun,
天气会怎么样 这就像下一盘棋
what the weather’s gonna do. It’s like a game of chess.
你有了这样一个终极目标
You have this ultimate goal,
可不可预知的事情就要发生了
but then unpredictable things are going to happen.
我认为与环境的互动
I think that interaction with the environment,
与大山的互动
with the mountain,
这就是登山
is, like, a huge part
最大的乐趣之一
of what makes alpine climbing so interesting.
如果你足够聪明 做了正确的行动
And if you’re smart and you, like, make the right moves,
那么你有时候能够应对困难
you can, sometimes against the odds,
完成一次伟大的攀登
pull off a great climb.
最酷的感觉之一是：
One of the coolest feelings
人类可以在如此庞大的世界中
that a human can experience is, like, to feel so small
体验到自己是如此的渺小
in a world that’s so big.
不受阻碍地翻过这座山
Moving over the mountain unencumbered
你会像登山者一样
is about as close as you’re gonna come as a climber
长出翅膀 获得完全的自♥由♥
to sprouting wings and being totally free.
绝对清醒 绝对活着
Absolutely awake, absolutely alive.
接收过来的某种冲动
Receiving any kind of impulse that’s coming in
并几乎本能地做出反应
and reacting to it almost instinctively.
那是一种伟大的舞蹈
It’s a great dance.
马克做的事情
Marc is doing things
是人们认为绝不可能完成的事情
that people thought could never be done.
他重新定了什么是可能
He’s redefining what’s possible.
登山技术的进化
This is the evolution of alpinism,
正在我们的后院发生着
and it’s happening right now in our backyard,
正在这个年轻小伙身上发生着
and it’s happening with that young guy.
但我绝对担心马克
But I am definitely concerned for Marc-Andre
和其他任何一个在徒手攀岩方面
and anyone else pushing the limit
达到极限的人
of what’s been accomplished soloing.
他所处的位置是如此特殊、极限
The place he is in is such a special, finite place,
而且是如此危险
and such an incredibly risky place.
马克·安德烈正在挑战巨兽
Marc-Andre is playing with a pretty heavy deck right now.
他行走在环境的边缘
He is walking relatively close to the edge in big environments.
我认为他可以做很多这样的事 并侥幸成功
I think he can do a fair amount of that and get away with it,
不过迟早
but sooner or later,
他会被大自然”反咬一口”
it’s gonna bite him.
他因为徒手攀岩获得赞赏
He is gaining recognition because of his solo climbing,
这些都很精彩
and all of this is wonderful for him,
听到的、看到的这些也都令人兴奋
and it’s exciting to hear about, and read about and watch.
不过 我想说的是 也许这只是年龄的问题
But… I mean, maybe it’s just an age thing,
但我觉得有点可怕
but I find it a little bit scary.
我只是 你知道 我只是希望他能小心些
I just… You know, I just hope he’s careful.
他的确在山上很自在舒适
He’s really comfortable in mountainous terrain.
有时候 我不知道他是不是太舒服了
Sometimes I wonder if he’s just almost too comfortable.
可以说的是这也太疯狂了 太不负责任了
One could say that it’s crazy and irresponsible
为什么要将自己置身于如此危险之中呢？
to place yourself in that kind of danger for what?
为了成名 为了荣耀？
Kicks, glory?
我觉得徒手攀岩是一个非常情绪化的话题
I think that free soloing is a very emotionally charged subject
因此引起了每个人的强烈反应
and so it draws strong reactions from everybody.
如果你跌落死去 每个人都会认为你是个傻子
If you fall and die, everybody thinks you’re an idiot,
你是个冒险者 胆大包天的人 嗯 “真是个白♥痴♥”
you’re a risk-taker, daredevil, like, “What an idiot.”
如果你成功了 大家都会像对待英雄那样祝贺你
If you succeed, everyone celebrates you as a big hero.
可现实中 无论发生了哪一种 你都是同一个人
But the reality is you’re the same person either way.
对于徒手攀岩 人们总是感到害怕
People are always freaking out about soloing,
“有如此巨大的风险 就不该去做
“It’s such an unacceptable risk. People shouldn’t be doing this.
这是树立了一个怎样的榜样呢？”
What kind of example does this set?”
我是说 我知道有危险
I mean, I know it’s dangerous.
我不是 要欺骗自己
I’m not, like, deluding myself
徒手攀岩没有危险
that it’s not dangerous to go soloing,
不过我很可能
but I probably just have
对一切事物都有不同的看法
a different view of everything, I guess.
你知道 对我来说 这并不是不可接受的风险
You know, like, to me, it’s not really an unacceptable risk.
我还年轻 还有很多事情想去做
I’m still so young. There are so many things I wanna do.
我真的不得不在自己的生活中思考这个问题
I’ve really had to think about it within our own lives,
因为我们确实把自己置于
because we do put ourselves in situations
任何事情都可能发生的境地
that anything could happen.
比如 随便一个雪崩就能丢命
Like, an avalanche could take you out randomly.
置身于那种情形次数越多
The more times you put yourself in that situation,
意外发生的几率越大
the more likely it’s gonna happen.
是的 有时候是取决于
And yeah, sometimes it’s concerning
徒手攀岩的次数
the amount of soloing he wants to do.
他有一种永不满足的愿望，想在极致水平上做得更多
He has an insatiable desire to do more at an extreme level.
我当然担心他
I worry for him, of course.
登上罗伯森山几个月后
A few months after Robson,
马克去了南美洲
Marc set off for Patagonia
最南端的巴塔哥尼亚
at the far southern tip of South America.
他的目标是无人尝试过的山峰
His objective was a climb that had never been attempted.
冬季徒手攀爬托瑞-艾格峰
A winter solo ascent of Torre Egger,
这是最难攀爬的山峰
the most difficult peak in the range.
巴塔哥尼亚崎岖不平的山峰
Patagonia’s jagged summits
是真正登山家的试验场
are a proving ground for serious alpinists,
他们每年夏天都聚集在查尔腾镇
who gather each summer in the village of El Chalten.
不过在冬季
But in the winter,
群山会被猛烈的暴风雨袭击
the mountains are lashed by vicious storms
查尔腾镇空无一人
and El Chalten is a ghost town.
冬季在巴塔哥尼亚徒手攀登
To go winter climbing in Patagonia solo,
他绝对将这个游戏水平提升到了新的高度
he’s definitely upping the game by a lot.
冬季去巴塔哥尼亚！令人难以置信
Going to Patagonia in the winter! It’s just mindboggling.
可怕的气候条件
The weather is horrific.
有极高的雪崩风险
Avalanche hazards can be extremely high.
而且要无预演攀爬托瑞-艾格峰
And trying to solo Torre Egger on sight.
我的意思是 托瑞-艾格峰是一座令人垂涎的山峰
I mean, Torre Egger is a coveted peak.
有些人认为它是美洲最难的山峰
Some people consider it the hardest peak in the Americas.
有人问我 “你不担心他回不来么？”
People ask me, “Don’t you worry he’s not coming back?”
我只是摇摇头
I just shake my head,
“马克会回来的 他有这个第六感”
“Marc will be coming back. He’s got this sixth sense.”
入手攀登托瑞-艾格峰是马克一直的梦想
Soloing Torre Egger had long been a dream of Marc’s.
所以他显然不想要一队摄制组跟随
So he obviously didn’t want a big film crew.
不过这次 他愿意带一个摄影师
But this time, he was willing to bring one cameraman,
他的登山伙伴 奥斯汀·希亚戴克.
his climbing buddy, Austin Siadak.
我会尽量跟上
I’m gonna basically just try to keep up,
紧跟着他 并在过程中尽可能地记录下来
tag along, and document as best as I can along the way.
我不想 像是 利用他的经验
I don’t wanna, like, impose on his experience.
奥斯汀会和马克一起在城里闲逛
Austin would hang with Marc in town
在海拔较低的线路上
and shoot some climbing
拍摄一些攀岩镜头
on the lower sections of the route.
不过到了峰顶 马克会独自攀爬
But for the summit push, Marc would climb alone
并带上一个小摄像头
and bring a small camera
实时记录下他的攀爬过程
to capture what he could in real time.
没错 这就是托瑞-艾格峰
Yeah, this is Torre Egger.
一年中的大部分时间里
I’ve been thinking about this climb
我一直在考虑这次攀登
for the better part of a year.
如果有冰的话 它可能会很快
If there’s ice, it might be quick
沿着冰塔下的冰沟直走 然后…
to go straight up this ice gully under the serac and then…
托瑞-艾格峰是这个1000米长的岩石柱
Torre Egger is this 1,000-meter rock pillar
从冰川中隆起 中间有一个冰块
rising up out of the glacier with an ice arete in the middle.
你知道 并非总是完美的岩石
You know, not always perfect rock
和覆盖着冰蘑菇
and capped with ice mushrooms.
我在书上看到它 然后说
I could look at it on paper and be like,
“好吧 算起来是完全可行的”
“OK, like, this is totally mathematically, like, feasible.”
不过与此同时 看起来还是有点不对劲
But at the same time, it still seems a little bit out there,
“哇哦 这是我的下一步”
like, “Whoa, this is the next step for me.”
去年大部分时间我都在做这些事
I spent the majority of the last year doing things
做这次攀爬的准备
that would prepare me for this climb.
无数次的混合攀岩 无数次的攀冰
A ton of mixed climbing, and a ton of ice climbing,