登山家（2021）

这就是一个令人沮丧的情况
It’s just a frustrating situation.
马克到了偏远地区的某个地方
You’ve got Marc somewhere in the backwoods.
他消失了几个月都没给我们打电♥话♥
He just disappears and doesn’t call us for months on end,
让我们所有人都在等待
having all of us waiting and on hold.
我的包收拾好了 每个人的包都装好了
My bags are packed. Everyone’s bags are packed.
没有马克的消息 我们无法拍摄
If we don’t hear from Marc, we might not do the shoot.
我们最初是在别的登山者社交媒体帖子上看见他的
We started seeing him in other climbers’ social media posts.
在峭壁上的第六天 暴风雨中的第五天
It’s day six on the wall and day five of the storm.
布莱特发了这些视频
Brette was posting these videos.
你在干嘛 马克？
What are you doing, Marc?
我要给我的滑雪板换一个T型槽
I’ll just get a T-slot my for skis
那就可以把布莱特降下悬崖
so I can lower Brette over this cliff.
哦 伙计
Oh, man.
我们看到他们一路跑到巴芬岛
We saw they’d gone all the way out to Baffin Island.
-太棒了 -哇哦
-This is so awesome. -Whoo!
然后马克去了苏格兰
Then Marc was in Scotland
就像打九洞高尔夫球一样
where he knocked off a string of solos
他进行了一连串独自攀岩
like they were nine holes of golf.
好了 好啦
All righty. -All righty, then.
有一次 我在南美洲爬山
At one point, I was climbing in South America,
看这个微小的 小点
we could see this tiny, tiny speck
在这个1220米的峭壁上
on this 4,000-foot wall.
我们仔细看了看 然后说 “那是马克·安德烈
We could look over and be like, “That is Marc-Andre, by himself,
在通往见上帝的该死的旅程上”
on this fricking journey to the gods.”
我当时想 “简直糟透了
I was like, “This is messed up.
不敢相信他居然在独自攀岩”
I cannot believe he’s soloing that.”
最终 我们听说马克回到了加拿大
Finally, we heard Marc was back in Canada,
去遥远的”幽灵荒野”登山
climbing in the remote Ghost Wilderness.
在绝望中
In an act of desperation,
我给那边的制片人打电♥话♥
I called a filmmaker from the area
去那个偏僻的地方寻找马克
to go into the backcountry and track Marc down.
他出现了
He shows up,
马克和布莱特以及一个朋友
and Marc is out there with Brette and a friend,
他们正在巨大的岩壁上
and they’re putting up hard first ascents
艰难地攀爬
on these huge walls,
享受着他们的生活
having the time of their lives.
很好 布莱特
Nice, Brette.
下降
Falling!
哇哦
Whoo!
马克 下面怎么样？
Hey, Marco, how is it down there?
很棒
It’s great.
我们开始吧
Here we go.
我觉得你们拍摄马克是一件很酷的事情
I think it’s so cool that you’re making a movie about Marc.
说实话 他不在乎影片
But honestly, he doesn’t care about movies.
他并不想花费时间和精力
He’s not gonna put the time and energy
向世界展示他的攀登壮举
into making his own climb significant to the world.
他去爬山了 他太忙了
He’s out climbing, he’s too busy climbing.
天气很不可思议
Pretty incredible, the weather.
他和我们接触过的其他登山者不一样
He’s different than any climber we’ve ever dealt with.
他不会跟我们分享任何信息
He doesn’t share any information with us.
这很令人懊丧 同时也令人敬佩
It’s frustrating, but at the same, it’s pretty noble.
马克只是在跟随自己的脚步 有自己的主见
Marc just kind of follows his own path. He’s a free spirit.
很难做计划
And that can be difficult to plan around.
你知道吗 这种奇怪的方式让他显得很可爱？
Kind of makes him lovable in this weird way, you know?
他根本不在乎
He doesn’t give a fuck.
在我们追寻马克的这段时间
This whole time, chasing Marc around,
很明显 他在筹办一件大事
it was clear he was building up to something big.
不过 我们不知道那会是什么
But we had no idea what it would be.
然后消息传来了
Then the news broke.
他在罗伯森山的帝王壁上
He had made the first-ever solo
进行首次徒手攀岩
of the Emperor Face on Mount Robson.
这给登山界带来了冲击波
And it sent shockwaves through the climbing world.
当我听说马克徒手爬了帝王壁
When I heard that Marc had soloed the Emperor Face,
给我感觉就是 “天啊！
it was one of those like, “Holy shit!
马克徒手攀登了帝王壁”
Marc soloed the Emperor Face.”
毫无疑问 非常了不起
That is absolutely outstanding
而且这大概也是北美洲
and probably the greatest solo ascent
最伟大的攀岩壮举
of anything that’s been done in North America.
罗伯森山是山之王者
Robson is the king.
是加拿大落基山脉最高的山
It’s the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies.
像三座艾尔-凯普斯峰
It’s like three El Caps.
罗伯森山可不是约塞米蒂国家公园
But Robson is not Yosemite.
那里有冰川 有裂缝 有雪崩
It’s got glaciation, it’s got crevasses, it’s got avalanche.
你要同时攀岩 攀冰 爬雪
You’re climbing rock, ice and snow all at the same time.
这是一个传奇的 神话般的目的地
It’s a legendary, mythical objective,
而他连根绳子都不带
even with a rope.
我很懊丧于马克
I was frustrated that Marc
在完成的他的历史性创举时
had made this historic ascent
连他的计划都没告诉我们
and he hadn’t even let us in on his plan.
最终 我们找到马克问他为什么
Eventually, we reached Marc and asked him why.
你们接近我要拍一部电影
When you guys approached me about doing a film,
这似乎是一次很酷的经历
it seemed like a cool experience,
但我从来没有让你们
but I’ve never let you guys
来拍过我真正的徒手攀岩
come and shoot one of my real solos.
为什么不呢？
Why not?
因为你们在那里的话
Because it wouldn’t be a solo to me
那就不是我的独自攀岩了
if somebody was there.
没错 我是说 确实如此
Yeah, I mean, I guess that’s true.
如果有人跟着你
It’s just a completely different experience
那就是完全不同的体验
if somebody comes with you.
是的 即使他们不帮你
Yeah, even if they don’t help you.
我在寻找的探险地
It just wouldn’t even be remotely close
离我并不太远
to the adventure that I was looking for.
我感兴趣的唯一方式
The only way I was interested
就是独自完成登山过程
was actually doing it fully by myself.
如果我做到了 我就可以回来完成拍摄
And if that happened, I’d be OK to go back and film.
真的是一次非常棒的体验
I had this really awesome experience.
现在我已经准备好跟大家分享了
Now, I’m actually ready to share it with people.
然后马克邀请我们去罗伯森山拍摄
So Marc invited us back up to film on Mount Robson
因此我们直接看到了他的徒手攀岩技艺
so we could see first-hand his approach to solo alpinism.
对我而言 最好的登山方式
For me, the very best climbs
就是除了自己的登山技能之外 什么都不带
are when you can walk up to a mountain with nothing
登顶 并孑然一身行走在山顶上
except for your ability to climb, and that’s it.
独自在山上 全神贯注于大自然
Being by yourself out there, immersed in your environment,
听着树叶的沙沙声
tuning in to the rustle of the leaves…
听着风穿过山脊的声音
…the sound of the wind across the ridge,
体味大山的气息
the aura that the mountain has.
在独自攀爬大山的过程中
On his big mountain solos,
马克遵守几条简单的规则
Marc follows a simple set of rules.
不带通信工具
He carries no communication device
而这本是出错时的生命线保障线
that could be used as a lifeline if things go wrong.
还有 他是到了就爬
And he climbs on sight,
这就是说此前他从未到过这座山
meaning he’s never been on the mountain before,
也从未进行线路预演
never rehearsed the route.
他必须马上解决这个问题
He has to figure it out on the fly.
登山运动的黄金准则是见到山就爬
The gold standard of alpinism is the on-sight solo.
无任何预先只是准备下 到了山脚
A climber approaches a mountain without any prior knowledge
立马就爬
and just climbs it.
而是这些只是针对最优秀的登山者
But it’s only for the very best climbers
在最好的登山时机
on their very best days.
你知道 这就是个死亡游戏
You know, it’s such a deadly game.
目标是尽可能安全地攀爬
The goal is to climb as safely as possible.
不过 你到了山脚
But when you step into the mountains,
总有一些你无法掌控的东西
and there’s stuff that’s beyond your control.
你能控制的只是你所能做的
You control what you’re doing,
可你无法控制山的举动
but you can’t control what the mountain’s doing,
而这才是我觉得最危险的地方
and that’s by far the biggest danger in my mind.
山是活的 环绕着你
The mountains are alive all around you
而你靠的是它的慈悲
and you’re kind of at their mercy.
你必须考虑到雪崩
You have to think about avalanches,