登山家（2021）

可是我已经到了
But I got to the point
不吸食毒品什么事都做不了的地步
where I felt like I couldn’t really do anything without taking drugs.
这很不健康
Which isn’t a healthy place to be.
我记得
I remember that.
当我和布莱特一起攀岩
When Brette and I started climbing together,
她会全力以赴
she was just totally going for it.
和她在一起 让我想起了我所失去的东西
Hanging out with her reminded me of what I’d lost,
那就是精神饱满的… 感觉
what it was like to be… spirited.
-很有趣 -没错 非常有趣
-Fun. -Yeah, super fun, hey?
是的
Yeah.
我明白马克为何会轻易地滑入那条路
I could see how Marc could have easily slid down that path,
那段阴暗的毒品生活
the dark side of drug life.
-玩得愉快 伙计们 -谢了 伙计
-Have a good day, guys. -Thanks, guys.
马克喜欢体验紧张刺♥激♥…
Marc is interested in intense experiences
并且充实的生活
and living to the fullest.
毒品可以给人那种感觉 只不过不是真实的
Drugs can provide some version of that, but it’s not genuine.
我觉得他认识到攀岩才是一种真实体验
And I think he recognized that climbing is the real experience.
-很好 布莱特 -真的很酷
-Nice, Brette. -It’s so cool.
我知道 很美吧？
I know, isn’t it beautiful?
-真是条有趣的线路 -看到吧？
-What a fun route. -See?
我了解马克
I know for Marc,
在斯夸米什攀岩就是为了好玩
rock climbing in Squamish is all about having fun.
不过马克的视野正朝向阿尔卑斯山
But Marc’s vision is more towards soloing big alpine faces
他要在那些美丽的峭壁独自攀岩
on beautiful mountains.
他喜欢大山 他也绝对有野心
He loves the mountains and he is definitely ambitious.
他想改进以前所做的工作
He wants to improve upon what’s been done before
为登山技术做出历史性贡献
to make his contribution to the history of alpinism.
登山技术 是攀登高山的一门技术
Alpinism, the discipline of climbing big technical mountains,
而不仅仅是一项运动
is more than just a sport.
已经经过几代人的发展进步
It’s an ideal that has evolved over generations.
20世纪上半叶
In the first half of the 20th century,
大规模的探险队使用了大量的设备和人力
large-scale expeditions used lots of equipment and manpower
来征服世界最高峰
to conquer the world’s highest peaks.
他们胜利地站在
They stand victorious
历经风雨的世界屋脊上
on the windswept roof of the world.
到了20世纪50年代
By the 1950s,
登顶不再是问题
it was no longer about getting to the top of the mountain,
而是如何登顶的问题
but how you got there.
在欧洲的阿尔卑斯山上
In the European Alps,
攀登技术和登山哲学 发生了一场革命
there was a revolution in climbing technique and philosophy.
使用较少装备的小队
Smaller teams using less gear
对付更陡峭和更危险的峭壁
tackled steeper and more dangerous faces.
这是登山运动发展的下一步
That was the next step in the evolution of alpinism.
爬更难的山 爬得更快 爬得更有风格
Climbing harder, climbing faster and climbing in better style.
你有的只是一根绳子、一个架子 还有你背上的背包
A rope, a rack, and the pack on your back, that’s all you get
就用这些来登山
and you have to make it work with that.
当你纵观登山历史
When you look through the history of alpinism,
你会发现登山就是自♥由♥的某种形式
climbing was a form of freedom.
是身体上的自♥由♥
It was physical freedom,
当然也是哲学上的自♥由♥
but it was also a philosophical freedom.
而自♥由♥的终极体验就是独自攀登
And the ultimate experience of freedom was to climb alone.
无拘 无束 无人打扰
Unfettered, unleashed, absolutely solo.
徒手攀岩时一种高水平的艺术形式
Solo climbing on a high level is an expression of art.
在最疯狂的情况下生存的艺术
The art of surviving in the most crazy situations.
徒手攀岩是最纯粹的
While solo alpinism may be the purest,
最冒险的登山形式
most adventurous form of climbing,
同时也是最致命的
it’s also the deadliest.
大概有半数的徒手攀岩者
Maybe half of the leading solo climbers of all times
死在了山上
died in the mountains,
这是悲剧 很难为其辩护
and this is tragic and it’s difficult to defend.
但这是人生哲学
But this is the philosophy.
只要你去冒险 你需要的就是难度
If you’re going in an adventure, you need difficulties.
和危险
You need danger.
如果没有死亡威胁 那么登山就什么也不是了
If death was not a possibility, coming out would be nothing.
那只会是幼儿园
It would be kindergarten.
但不会是冒险 也不会是艺术
But not an adventure and not an art.
在斯夸米什拍摄了几个月之后
A few months after our shoot in Squamish,
我们跟随马克来到加拿大落基山脉
we followed Marc to the Canadian Rockies
他是来这里参加世界著名的攀冰比赛的
where he’d come for the world-renowned ice climbing.
我总是迫不及待地等待着攀冰季节的到来
There’s always a point where I just cannot wait for ice-climbing season.
我已经准备好攀登冰瀑布
I’m just ready to go climb frozen waterfalls.
攀冰是登山技术中至关重要的一项技术
Ice climbing is a crucial skill in alpinism.
经过多年发展
Over the years,
已经发展成为拥有自身高技术的运动
it’s developed into its own highly technical sport
坎莫尔的冰面是一个试验场
and the ice in Canmore is a proving ground.
我们到达时
By the time we arrived,
马克已经在那里呆了几个星期了
Marc had already been there for a few weeks,
在镇外露营
camping outside of town
他和攀岩已经成为当地人聊天的话题
and climbing things that had the locals talking.
我第一次听说马克·安德烈时
First time I heard about Marc-Andre,
他住在公园或者什么地方的雪窟中
he was living in a snow cave on the parkway or something.
他好像全天都在徒手攀岩那些冰路
And he was, like, soloing all these ice routes all day long.
在我看来 就是”有人在追寻和探索…
I was like, “Here’s somebody who’s just going after it and pushing things
未知领域”
that is pretty much unknown.”
很少有人去攀冰和徒手攀岩
Ice climbing, solo, it’s not something many people do.
穿一双有鞋钉的鞋子
You’re climbing frozen water
和几厘米的攀冰工具
with just a few centimeters of your ice tools
去攀爬结冰的瀑布
and crampons in the ice.
时间窗很短暂
It’s a very ephemeral medium.
你要的爬的地方几周前可能都不存在
Climbing something that wasn’t there maybe a few weeks earlier
也许你刚决定攀爬
and that might not be there the next day
第二天就崩塌消失了
if the thing you’re climbing on decides to collapse.
有些人觉得徒手攀岩是疯狂的
People think the free soloing that I’m doing seems crazy,
而攀岩是在岩石上进行
but what I’m doing is on rock.
在很多方面都是安全的 岩石非常结实
It’s safe in a lot of ways. The medium is super solid.
而我看到了马克·安德烈在冰壁上徒手攀岩
And then I see Marc-Andre free soloing on ice and snow.
在如此不同的地形上攀岩
It just shows so much experience
是一种特别的体验
on such different kinds of terrain.
在我整个攀岩生涯中
In all my years of climbing,
我没见过比马克·安德烈
I don’t think I’ve seen another climber
更加渴望攀岩的
quite as hungry for it as Marc-Andre.
他似乎拥有无人能及的顶部空间
He’s got this headspace that nobody else seems to have.
没什么能打扰他
Nothing fazes him.
马克不仅在冰壁上徒手攀岩
Marc doesn’t just solo the ice,
还会攀爬混合线路
he goes out and solos mixed routes.
混合攀岩时 无需做好
With mixed climbing, it’s the whole mentality
全部的心理准备就可以攀爬
of the ice doesn’t have to be fully formed to be climbed.
与其把镐凿在冰里
Instead of embedding your picks in the ice,
不如将之放到小块岩石的边角上
you’re just kind of placing them on these little rock edges.
这又增加了不安全性
That adds another dimension of insecurity.
在不安全处
Filming Marc
拍摄马克是非常可怕的事情
on this insecure terrain was terrifying.
可他却再放松不过了
But he couldn’t have been more relaxed.
神了 伙计
Holy shit, dude.
然后 他独自爬上臭名昭著的斯坦利斗壁
Then he took it up a notch
将之提升到了新的高度
by climbing solo on the notorious Stanley Headwall.
斯坦利斗壁是落基山脉
The Stanley Headwall is the centerpiece
混合攀岩的中心
of Rockies mixed climbing.
没有百分百连续的冰块
None of the ice is a hundred percent continuous.
有水滴状的 有柱状的 还有悬垂的匕♥首♥形状的
It forms in blobs, and pillars and hanging daggers.
你必须爬上陡峭的悬垂岩石 才能到达冰面
You have to climb steep, overhanging rock just to get to the ice.
因此使得攀爬过程非常迷人
And so it makes for really good, engaging climbing.
混合攀爬时
There’s a high degree of craftsmanship
必须有非常精湛的攀爬技术
that has to go into the mixed-climbing equation.
冰镐可以勾住
The pick of an ice ax can hang on
最小的边角
to just the smallest of edges.
而你不用紧张于冰斧的端头
But you don’t have nerves going to the end of the ice ax.
你必须评估和测试
You have to evaluate and test.
冰镐勾牢支撑点
The difference between
和冰镐破坏一个支撑点
having your pick solidly seated on a hold