哦 不 该死
Oh, no! Oh, shit.
疯狂
Crazy.
他带着巨大的热情投入进来
He came in just all guns blazing.
我像是那种 “这孩子真的很另类”
I was like, “This kid’s a really special breed.”
他有点年轻、鲁莽
He was a bit young and brash.
这就像“我在这儿”明白我说的吗?
You know, it’s like, “I’m here,” you know what I mean?
不过 在17到24岁的时候 如果你不年轻、不鲁莽
But if you’re not young and brash between 17 and about 24,
你还不如开枪自杀
you might as well shoot yourself,
因为那个年龄的人就应该年轻鲁莽
cos that’s when people are young and brash.
马克真的是个邋遢鬼
Marc was just a true dirtbag.
真的一文不名
Like, seriously broke.
他没有车 甚至连个电♥话♥都没有
He didn’t have a car, he didn’t even have a phone.
有一阵 我是有电♥话♥的
I had a phone for a while.
我把电♥话♥放进一个装烟熏鲑鱼的袋子里
Left it in a stuff sack with some smoked salmon
然后电♥话♥就被一只野狐偷走了
and then the phone was stolen by a wild fox.
不可能
No way!
我觉得也许没有电♥话♥会更好
I feel like maybe I’m just better off without one.
有几个夏天
For a couple of summers there,
他似乎是住在楼梯井
he was, like, living in a stairwell.
而他找了个可爱的金发女孩
It was surprising when he managed
和他一起住在楼梯井 真令人惊讶
to find a cute blonde girl to live in the stairwell with him.
他的住处在楼梯井底部
His stairwell was just, like, a small futon
就是在天井处有个小床垫
at the bottom of the stairwell, like, an entryway.
随着居住时间的增加 那里装饰得越来越好
The longer time I spent there,the more it became decorated.
所以 那里开始有了挂毯和照片
So then, like, he had tapestries and pictures.
他把那里变成了起居室
His stairwell became, like, the lounge.
无需豪华的生活
There was no need to live luxuriously,
因为我们已经有了想要的 那就是登山
because we have what we want, which is climbing.
我们尽可能生活得简单、容易
It was easiest just to live as cheaply as we could.
然后我们决定搬到森林里的帐篷里
And then we decided to just move into a tent in the forest.
我被他吸引了
I was attracted to him
因为他是那么与众不同
because he was so different than anyone I’d ever met.
他在社交方面也非常笨拙
He was also super socially awkward.
不过我不在乎 因为他就那样的
But I didn’t care, cos, like, that’s who he is
我爱的就她这个人
and I love him for that.
-怎么了? -看 他来了
-Going on? -Look, there he is.
时机正好 你差点错过我
Your timing’s perfect, guys. You nearly missed me.
他们叫我海威·丢第(重担谐音)
They call me Hevy Duty.
从70年代就这么叫了
It’s a nickname that’s been with me since the early ’70s.
相比”重担”我现在更像是”轻担” 或者是”老担”
I’m more like Light Duty now than Hevy Duty. Or Old Duty.
海威就像是斯夸米什攀岩市长
Hevy is kind of, like, the mayor of Squamish rock climbing.
他也是呼啦圈专家
He’s also, like, a hula hoop expert.
好啦
All right.
我是呼啦圈”专家”
I am the hoop guy.
跟我聊聊马克·安德烈
Yeah, tell me about Marc-Andre.
我可以一整天都跟你聊马克·安德烈的故事
I can tell Marc-Andre stories all day.
请吧
Please do, yeah.
我对马克·安德烈最早的记忆
My first memories of Marc-Andre
是他赤膊、光着脚参加斯夸米什
was seeing him come running out of the forest in Squamish,
森林跑
barefoot with no shirt.
他打破了我在”大墙线路”的速度记录
He just broke my speed record on the Grand Wall
那时我就想 “这家伙是谁?”
and I was just like, “Who is that guy?”
“大墙线路”是斯夸米什最具标志性的线路
The Grand Wall might be the most iconic route in Squamish.
我是从底部跑到顶部速度最快的
I’d climbed it the fastest bottom to top.
有一种玩法就是拼速度
Speed records are a game.
于攀岩而言 速度不是最重要的
They’re not the most important thing in climbing,
不过我很喜欢速度记录
but I do love speed records.
然而这个我从未听说过的本地小子 打破了记录
And then this local kid, who I’d never heard of, did it faster.
我经常徒手攀爬这条线路
I was soloing the route quite regularly,
有一次 我决定看看我花了多长时间
and one time, I just decided to see how long it would take me.
我爬到了顶上 记下了时间
I got to the top and checked the time,
我似乎比原来的记录快了两三分钟
I was, like, two or three minutes faster than the established record.
然而忽然间 亚历克斯·霍诺德来到斯夸米什
And suddenly, Alex Honnold came back to Squamish
打破了”大墙线路”的速度记录
to get his record back on the Grand Wall
我觉得我的记录被打破了
that I had kind of, like, unintentionally broken.
“我得要加快速度”
I was like, “Oh, man, I’m gonna go fast.”
然而 他彻底毁掉了记录 他用时只有我的一半
He totally destroyed it. He cut my time in half.
我觉得我比以前还快了一点
I think I did quite a bit faster.
这个记录足以让马克
Enough so that it discouraged Marc
不必再次尝试
from ever wanting to try again.
马克是一个非常非常有动力的登山者
Marc is a very, very driven climber,
但他不在乎荣誉
but he doesn’t care about accolades.
甚至都不在乎是否有人知道他在爬什么
He doesn’t even care if anybody knows what he’s climbing.
我总是从运动的角度来看待攀岩
I’ve always approach climbing from an athletic background.
我是在健身房♥里攀岩成长的
I grew up climbing in the gym
我认为这更像是一项运动
and I think of it more as a sport.
而他在乎的是…
But he cares about,
我不想说精神成分
I don’t wanna say the spiritual component,
但他关心在山上的经历和旅程
but he cares about the experience in the mountains, and the journey,
还有 他更希望在那里能玩得开心
and just wants to have a good time while he’s out there.
我很尊重这点
And I really respect that. It’s a…
我是说 这很明显
I mean, obviously, it contributes to him
这才是他有如此高水准的原因
performing at such a crazy level.
第一次和马克一起攀岩
The first climb we filmed with Marc
是在”大墙线路” 的徒手攀岩
was a solo ascent of the Grand Wall.
拍摄一个人不用绳子攀爬总是很伤脑筋的
It’s always nerve-racking to film someone climbing without a rope.
但对于马克而言 这是他的日常线路
But for Marc, this was just part of his daily routine.
当我徒手攀岩时
When I’m soloing rock climbs,
我真的不想觉得我在强迫自己
I don’t really like to feel like I’m pushing myself.
这不是我徒手攀岩的原因
That’s not the reason for soloing rock for me.
我不喜欢感觉自己在做一些紧张和可怕的事情 或者…
I don’t like to feel like I’m doing something intense and scary or…
那么为什么要去爬呢?
So then why do it?
这就像 更多的只是为了休闲乐趣去冒险
Like, more just to have a casual fun adventure
和…四处游荡
and… cruise around.
而当你看他攀岩时
And when you watch him climb,
他就是岩石上的魔法
he’s just magic on the rock.
他有自己的风格 不是勇猛 而是精准
He’s got style, he doesn’t lunge, he’s very precise.
从你出发的那一刻起
There’s not the slightest margin for error
就没有一丁点失误空间 是吧?
from the minute you set off, is there?
看着马克在岩壁上优雅的移♥动♥
Watching Marc move so beautifully up the wall,
毫无疑问 这个憨憨的、谦逊的孩子
it was clear this goofy, unassuming kid
是个攀岩大♥师♥
was a master of his craft.
我真的非常喜欢看他的攀岩
I really love just watching him climbing.
马克是个非常平静、稳定 具有控制力的登山者
Marc is a very calm and, like, steady, controlled climber.
嗨 马克 我想你了
Hey, Marco, I missed you.
我也想你了
Yeah, I missed you, too.
我知道他想徒手攀岩了
I get the fact that he wants to solo,
因为我也喜欢
because I love it, too.
我觉得自己也很冷静 很擅长徒手攀岩
I’m feeling really, like, calm and good with soloing, too,
所以攀岩会让我感到兴奋
so I would be psyched on going and climbing…
岩壁就在你眼前
It puts you directly in the present.
你不能去想其他任何事
You can’t be thinking about anything else.
此刻你是在与岩壁互动和即兴表演
And you’re interacting and improvising in the moment.
而你只是在控制自己的身体
And you’re just in control.
我最初遇见布莱特时
When I first met Brette,
她确实对我有很大的影响
she definitely had a pretty big impact on me.
那段时间 我生活不再与攀岩有任何关联
At that time, I’d lost touch with the whole climbing portion of my life.
斯夸米什聚会场面真的很热闹
There is a really lively party scene in Squamish.
我陷入了聚会之中
Definitely got hard into the partying.
起初很不错 就像是某种初级实验
At the beginning, it was pretty, like, basic experimentation,
真的很有趣
like, it was really fun
体验完全不同的心灵状态
to experience all these different states of mind.
就像跟攀岩毫无关联
It’s almost like a parallel to climbing.
我的朋友们喜欢尝试一点点
My friends like to explore a little bit,
而我有时候喜欢多吃几粒
and sometimes I like to explore a lot,
聚会也是如此
and it was the same with the partying.
每个人都吃一粒毒品
Everyone would wanna take a tab of acid
出去晃一晃、玩一玩
and hang out and have a good time,
而我想吞下六粒毒品
and I’d wanna take six tabs of acid
消失上20小时
and disappear for 20 hours.

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