isn’t it?
想想卡皮托林山就在那后面。
Think about the Capitoline Hill
is just behind that.
那么为了建造这个,他们把它建在什么上面呢?
So in order to build this,
what did they build it on top?
当然,一定有什么东西。
Surely there must be something.
是的。不,不,他们做了,他们推倒了一些寺庙、
Yeah. No, no, they did,
they knocked down some temples,
他们掩盖了一段古罗马的历史
they covered up a piece of
ancient Roman history
以创建现代纪念碑。
to create the modern monument.
我的意思是,这绝对是在城市的中心。
I mean, this is absolutely
in the centre of the city.
我认为这也是这里的人的问题的一部分
And I think that’s again part of
the problem the people here
已经接受了它
have had accepting it –
他们知道,这已经废除了他们自己的部分历史。
they know that this has abolished
part of their own history.
于是,他就在他的马上、
And so there he is on his horse,
新的马库斯-奥雷利乌斯、
the new Marcus Aurelius,
维托里奥-埃马努埃莱二世、
Vittorio Emanuele II,
而他在说
and he’s saying,
“朋友,罗马人,同胞、
“Friends, Romans, countrymen,
“借我的耳朵”,但我认为
“lend me your ears”, but I think
他们从未真正向他们借过耳朵。
they never really did
lend them their ears.
我真的不喜欢打字机。
I really don’t like the typewriter.
但萨沃伊家族的统治对罗马来说并不全是坏消息。
But the Savoy family rule
wasn’t all bad news for Rome.
事实上,我最喜欢的一个地区就是在他们手下创建的。
In fact, one of my favourite
districts was created under them.
一个为人♥民♥而生的地方。
A place made for the people.
而且我真的想把它给安德鲁看。
And I really want to show it
to Andrew.
在20世纪初、
At the beginning of
the 20th century,
从一个沉睡的村庄、
from being a sleepy village,
罗马迅速成为一个狂热的欧洲首都。
Rome rapidly became
a frenetic European capital.
萨沃伊家族开始建造
The Savoy family started building
为工人提供的社会住房♥,如Garbatella。
social housing for workers
such as the Garbatella.
曾经在城市的最边缘、
Once at the very edges of the city,
而现在就在中♥央♥、
and now right in the centre,
从竞技场出发,骑摩托车只需10分钟。
only ten minutes by scooter
from the Coliseum.
我们在这里,在加尔巴泰拉,伙计。
Here we are, in Garbatella, man.
我们要去哪里,上台阶?
Where are we going, up the steps?
是的,让我们去那里。
Yeah, let’s go up there.
来看看这个。
Come and have a look at this.
Garbatella,garbato,意思是善良,你知道。
Garbatella, garbato,
means to be kind, you know.
所以这里是一个欢迎你的地方。
So this is a place where
you’re welcome.
看,我们在镇中心。
And look, we are in
the centre of town.
这不是我认识的罗马。
This is not the Rome that I know.
我的意思是,这是如此和平。
I mean, this is so peaceful.
那些骑着摩托的人在哪里,从你身边飞驰而过?
Where are the guys on motor
scooters, zipping past you?
当然可以。但是你看,这些建筑是令人难以置信的。
Absolutely. But look,
the architecture is incredible.
看看这个地方。但这是上世纪20年代。
Look at this place.
But this is the 1920s.
当我看到这样的房♥子,我的意思是,我的联想是思考、
When I see a house like that, I
mean, my association is to think,
“突然间,我居然来到了意大利的乡下。”
“Suddenly I am actually
in the countryside in Italy.”
是的,小块的地方,你可以种植他的小罗勒
Yeah, little patch where you can
grow his little basil
和他的小土豆或西红柿。
and his little potato or tomato.
但我喜欢的是,它是如此的意大利。
But what I love about it is
that it is so Italian.
它有点混乱,有点不整齐、
It’s a little bit chaotic,
a little bit unkempt,
但以一种非常美丽的方式。
but in a very beautiful way.
比如,看他们把两个管子放在哪里,估计是有一次的。
Like, look where they’ve got the two
pipes presumably were there one time
但他们并没有费心去把它刷回来。
but they haven’t bothered
to paint it back.
窗户周围有石膏。
There’s the plaster
round the window.
这就是魅力。这很有魅力,很可爱。
This is charm.
It’s charming, it’s lovely.
它真的像一个小天堂。
It’s really like a little paradise.
从我所看到的住在这里的人来看、
From the people
I’ve seen living here,
他们中的很多人现在都有点上进了。
quite a lot of them are
getting on a bit now.
仿佛他们是原始社区的一部分。
It’s as if they are part
of the original community.
60多岁的人,70多岁的人…。
People in their 60s,
people in their 70s…
你想和人们一起生活
You want to live with the people
你想和你所爱的人一起死。
that you love and you want to die
with the people that you love.
被它包围着的,是社区的感觉、
Surrounded by it,
the sense of community,
让你觉得自己是一个人。
makes you feel like a human.
Buongiorno.布昂乔诺
Buongiorno. Buongiorno.
你的手杖的名字是什么?佩佩。
Qual’e il nomo del tuo cane? Pepe.
佩佩!早上好,佩佩。Cacio e pepe.
Pepe! Buongiorno, Pepe.
Cacio e pepe.
完美。
Perfect.
祭祀。尊敬的先生
Salve. Buongiorno.
在设计Garbatella的过程中、
In designing the Garbatella,
罗马的城市规划者受到了英国潮流的极大影响
Rome’s urban planners were greatly
influenced by the English trend
被称为20世纪初的花♥园♥城市运动。
known as the garden city movement
of the early 20th century.
所以在某种程度上、
So in a way,
这是一个罗马版的
this is a Roman version of
伦敦的汉普斯特德花♥园♥郊区。
Hampstead Garden Suburb in London.
但这个位于城市边缘的村庄的特点是
But the character of this village
on the edge of the city
将在20世纪20年代改变…
will change in the 1920s…
…当法♥西♥斯♥分子上台后。
..when the fascists came to power.
法♥西♥斯♥主义及其对现代化的推动
Fascism and its drive
for modernisation
掌握了对意大利的铁腕控制、
took an iron grip of Italy,
以及最重要的是,罗马。
and most of all, Rome.
又有数千名工人从农村涌入城市。
Thousands more workers from the
countryside flooded into the city.
而为了安置他们,新一代的建筑师们
And to house them,
a new generation of architects
为加巴泰拉提出了更宏伟的设计和更大的建筑。
came up with grander designs and
bigger buildings for Garbatella.
你看,安德鲁,就在转角处,情况完全改变了。
You see, Andrew, just round
the corner it changes completely.
哇。而他们只是如此隆重。
Wow. And they’re just so grand.
他们是。它们就像宫殿。
They are. They’re like palaces.
这种风格被称为baroquetto。
This style is called baroquetto.
Baroquetto.
Baroquetto.
这就对了。这意味着小巴洛克。
That’s right.
Which means little Baroque.
是的,宝贝巴洛克。巴洛克宝宝。
Yeah, baby Baroque.
Baby Baroque.
这很奇妙,因为它是!这就像一座巴洛克式的宫殿。
It’s fantastic cos it is!
That’s like a Baroque palace.
除了你通常在贵族宫殿上看到这些头像。
Except you see these heads normally
on an aristocratic palace.
这就对了。但在这里,头
That’s right. But here, the heads
是在一个委员会的公♥寓♥楼的侧面、
are on the side of
a council flat block,
他们是20世纪20年代的人的头像,也可能是30年代的。
and they’re the heads of people
from the 1920s, or maybe the 1930s.
看看她的小波浪发型。
Look at her little bob hairstyle.
难以置信,不是吗?这真是太神奇了。
Unbelievable, isn’t it?
It’s fantastic.
看,房♥子前面有一个类似于石像鬼的东西。
Look, there’s something like a
gargoyle on the front of the house.
这不仅仅是建筑。
It’s not just building.
我可以想象在那些封闭的窗户后面发生的事情、
I can imagine things happening
behind those closed windows,
所有这些小房♥子和所有这些小厨房♥
all those little houses
with all these little kitchens
以及很多这种来自农村的可爱食物、
and a lot of this lovely food
that comes from the countryside,
从连接处。