现在到教堂来看看吧。
now come to the church
to have a look at that.
那么，你投票给卡拉瓦乔？
So, you vote for Caravaggio?
应付一个零。
Due a zero.
在他死后的几个世纪里、
For centuries after his death,
卡拉瓦乔被讥讽为一个粗俗的艺术家。
Caravaggio was sneered at
as a crude and vulgar artist.
他被重新发现的部分原因是
He was rediscovered partly by
意大利电影人，包括费里尼、
Italian film-makers,
including Fellini,
喜爱他对光线的电影式运用的人
who loved his cinematic use of light
以及他使用真实人物的方式。
as well as the way
he used real people.
而自20世纪中期以来、
And since the mid-20th century,
卡拉瓦乔的声誉一直在上升。
Caravaggio’s reputation
has been on the rise.
他现在是世界上最受喜爱的画家之一。
He’s now one of the world’s
best-loved painters.
噢！噢！噢
Oh! Oh!
请注意…
Va bene…
这是一条古老的罗马路。
This is the old Roman Way.
哦，伙计！凯撒大帝曾经走过这条路，伙计。
Oh, man! Julius Caesar used to come
down this road, man.
必须对此感到兴奋。
Got to be excited about it.
罗马是意大利的政♥治♥中心。
Rome is the political
centre of Italy.
在其他任何地方，你都找不到这么多的政♥治♥家和官僚。
Nowhere else will you find so many
politician and bureaucrats…
……或者这么多的豪华轿车堵在路上。
..or so many limousines
stuck in traffic.
普通罗马人习惯于与当权者擦肩而过
Ordinary Romans are used to rubbing
shoulders with those in power
而且他们准备进行斗争。
and they are prepared
to put up a fight.
乔治的尖叫声
GIORGIO SCREAMS
我们去喝杯咖啡吧。
Let’s go and have a coffee.
罗马人最喜欢的就是讨论政♥治♥
Romans love nothing more than
discussing politics
从他们今天的第一杯浓缩咖啡开始。
from their first
espresso of the day.
成为这个镇的镇长、
To be the mayor of this town,
我认为这是最难的工作。
I think is the hardest job.
无论你做什么，总有人会说相反的话。
Whatever you do, you’ll always have
someone who says the contrary.
罗马有多少名官僚？
How many bureaucrats
are there in Rome?
嗯，这就是问题所在。
Well, that’s the thing.
在罗马有哪些人？
Quanti burocrati a Roma?
Troppi.Troppi!
Troppi. Troppi!
太多了，太多了。
Too many, too many.
但是，在一天结束的时候、
But, at the end of the day,
罗马将永远是罗马，因为有罗马的人♥民♥。
Rome would be always Rome
because of the people of Rome.
是的。你可以把尽可能多的法律，只要他们想、
Yeah. You can put
as many laws as they want,
但他们会做他们想做的事、
but they will do whatever they want,
因为他们一直在做这件事，而且是永恒的时间。
because they’ve been doing that
for the eternal time.
这就是为什么他们在这里呆了这么长时间、
That’s why they’ve been here
for such a long time,
因为这就是他们的工作。
because that’s what they do.
他们做他们想做的。
They do what they want.
我在报纸上看到，
I read in the paper that the
世界上收入最高的交通管♥理♥员♥负责人
highest-paid head of
traffic wardens in the world
是罗马交通管♥理♥员♥的负责人。
is the head of the
traffic wardens of Rome.
他的工资比美国总统还高!
He gets paid more than the
President of the United States!
是的，没错，他得到的报酬，比如，50万英镑。
Yeah, exactly, he gets paid,
like, half a million pounds.
而且，每个人都在自己喜欢的地方停车。
And, still, everybody parks
where they like.
每个人都做他们想做的事。
Everybody do what they want.
我想带乔治去看一个纪念碑
I want to take Giorgio
to see a monument
欢呼罗马首次成为世界上最伟大的国家之一的时刻。
that hails the moment
when Rome first became
现代意大利政♥治♥的中心。
the centre of
modern Italian politics.
在19世纪末，意大利
At the end of the 19th century Italy
当时仍被划分为许多州、
was still divided into many states,
在不同的统治者之下。
under different rulers.
但在1861年，萨沃伊家族在其国王维托里奥-埃马努埃莱的领导下、
But in 1861 the Savoy family, under
their king, Vittorio Emanuele,
在国家的统一上盖上了他们的印♥章♥。
had placed their stamp on the
unification of the country.
并在十年后宣布罗马为其首都。
And ten years later declared
Rome its capital.
对罗马人来说，这也意味着
For the Roman people, it also meant
一千多年的教皇统治的结束。
the end of over a thousand years
of papal rule.
因此，为了庆祝这一时刻、
So to celebrate this moment,
和意大利第一个国王的加冕…
and the crowning of Italy’s
first king…
……维托里亚诺被竖立起来、
..the Vittoriano was erected,
就在罗马的中心、
right in the centre of Rome,
帝国论♥坛♥旁边。
next to the Imperial Forum.
真是个大美人。
What a great beauty.
哪一个？我喜欢这些位子。
Which one? I like these bits.
我不太确定…
I’m not so sure about…
那个大的，在那里。
That big one, over there.
当你在真正的罗马废墟的背景下看到它、
When you see it in the context
of real Roman ruins,
我想你能感觉到…
I think you get a sense of how…
…只是疯狂地巨大、
..just crazily enormous,
多么刺眼的白色、
how glaringly white,
多么令人吃惊的浮夸、
how astonishingly pompous,
是维托里奥-埃马努埃莱的纪念碑。
is the monument to
Vittorio Emanuele.
我的意思是，这是维托里奥-埃马努埃莱来到了罗马、
I mean, this is
Vittorio Emanuele coming to Rome,
说，”意大利，一个意大利，在我手下”。
saying,
“Italy, one Italy, under me”.
而他基本上是
And he’s basically
试图取代马可-奥雷利奥，马库斯-奥雷利乌斯，他在后面、
trying to replace Marco Aurelio,
Marcus Aurelius, who’s in the back,
从罗马人的视线中几乎被遮蔽了、
obscured almost,
from the view of the Romans,
由这头大白象。
by this great white elephant.
他骑在马上，说：”我是新皇帝。”
With him on his horse, he’s saying,
“I’m the new emperor.”
是的，它有一座山那么大。
Yeah. It’s the size of a mountain.
我的意思是，我认为它有70米高，超过100米宽。
I mean, I think it’s 70 metres high,
more than 100 metres across.
我想，它是在1912年落成的。
It was inaugurated, I think, in 1912
并在13年后完成、
and finished 13 years later,
这是意大利雕塑史上最伟大的创造就业计划。
the greatest job creation scheme in
the history of Italian sculpture.
罗马人从不喜欢…
The Roman never liked…
你知道他们怎么称呼这个吗？
You know what they call this?
他们叫它打字机。打字机？是的。
They call it the typewriter.
The typewriter? Yes.
它看起来像一台打字机。
It looks like a typewriter.
你知道，其中一个旧的，你只是…
You know, one of the old ones,
that you just…
一路摇摆。我认为这就是整个问题，虽然、
Swings along. I think that’s
the whole problem, though,
是，在打字机上打出的语言并不是
is that the language that’s being
typed out on the typewriter is not
真的是罗马人，不是意大利人。
really Roman, not Italian.
这就是德国的古典主义。
This is the classicism of Germany.
我的意思是，它几乎可以由冰制成。
I mean, it could almost be
made of ice.
它是耀眼的，它是白色的，它是巨大的，它就像瓦尔哈拉。
It’s glaring, its white, it’s
enormous, it’s like the Valhalla.
这是瓦格纳，不是威尔第。
This is Wagner, not Verdi.
是的。白色真的使它与其他东西不一致。
Yeah. The whiteness really puts it
at odds with everything else.
因为，我不知道，比如，看看那些树、
Because, I don’t know, like,
look at those tree,
看起来与教会和事物很和谐。
looks in harmony with
the church and things.
你有点像，这些形状，他们都在工作，这些柱子、
You kind of like, the shapes,
they’re all working, these columns,
突然间，它就像一个碍眼的东西，不是吗？
and suddenly it’s like an eyesore,
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