麦昆（2018）

还得40年才能有这里的声誉
another 40 years to get the reputation this one has.
我记得有一次我们看到这件美丽的作品
I remember once we saw this beautiful work.
李就问凯瑟琳·德隆德斯 工作室的负责人
Lee asked Catherine DeLondres, who was in charge of the atelier,
“谁做了这件美妙的作品?”
“Who’s done this fabulous work?”
“她不被允许进来”
“She’s not allowed to come in.”
他说 “什么意思 她不被允许进来?
He’s like, “What do you mean, she’s not allowed in?
“请让她进来”
“Please let her in.”
我记得那天李想见到这个
I remember from that day on Lee wanted to see the person
直接做衣服的人
who has worked directly with the garment.
而且我认为他们喜欢这样
And I think they loved that.
这是贝特·林奇的裙子
This is the Bet Lynch dress.
我们也处理它 将塑料粘在风衣顶部
And we also treated it, bonding plastic over the top
这样你就得到一个整体
for raincoats so you get the whole ensemble.
我们都不会说法语
None of us spoke French
法国工作室不会说英语
and the French atelier didn’t speak English.
李实际上在空中比划出要有的样子
Lee would actually draw in the air how it would have to be.
（凯瑟琳说法语） – 是的 是的 没关系
(Catherine in French) – Yeah. Yeah, it’s OK.
（凯瑟琳和麦昆说法语）
(Catherine and McQueen speak French)
哦 没关系 我以为这只是裤子
Oh, it’s OK. I thought it was just pantalon.
它们很精确 就像… 把这根线去掉…
They’re quite precise and like… They, like, take the threads out and…
我拿起剪刀过去 “把它去掉!”
I just get the scissors and go, “Whack it off!”
然后他们…就像这样
And they go… Like that.
我说 “没关系 这只是衣服”
And I go, “lt’s OK, it’s only clothes.”
我永远不会忘记她脸上的表情
I’ll never forget the expression on her face.
但最后她看明白他在做什么
But in the end she saw exactly what he was doing.
她很敬畏
She was in awe.
他们两个人越发的互相尊重
A very mutual, you know, respect grew between the two of them.
高级定制是依托工作室的 我来自萨维尔街
Haute couture is about the atelier. I come from Savile Row.
所以我非常尊重裁缝
So I have great respect for the tailors.
他们应该和我一样受到赞扬
They deserve just as much praise as I do.
李 有一天他说 “我们可以去哪里吃饭?
Lee, one day he said, “Where can we go and eat?
“工人们在哪里吃饭?”
“Where do the workers eat?”
然后凯瑟琳说 “有一个食堂
And then Catherine said, “There is a canteen
“在工人的地下室”
“in the basement for the workers.”
李说 “那我们去那吧”
And Lee was like, “So let’s go there.”
当我们去那里时 人们 他们沸腾了
When we went down there, the people, they’re flipping out.
“亚历山大和我们一起吃饭!”
“Alexander is eating with us!”
他们无法相信
They couldn’t believe it.
这些时装设计室 他们对待设计师就像他是一位国王
These fashion houses, they treat the designer like he’s a king.
他们像对待国王一样对待李
And they treated Lee like a king,
但李不想表现得像国王
but Lee didn’t want to behave like a king,
李♥希♥望表现得像个普通人
Lee wanted to behave like a regular person.
好
OK.
秀的很多想法
The ideas for the show,
随着系列的发展 从中得到升华
they grew out of the collection as the collection developed.
他会把思绪和故事提取出来
He would pull threads and stories out of that.
墙上总是挂着情绪板这样的东西
And there was always mood boards and things pinned all over the walls.
每个人干劲十足 非常团队
Everyone fed in. It was a very group practice.
但李是蜘蛛网中心的蜘蛛 同以往一样
But Lee was the spider in the centre of the web, as it were,
将所有东西凑在一起并提炼出
pulling everything together and distilling
他脑子里所想的东西
what it was that he had in his head.
我记得走秀前一周的担心害怕
I remember the fraughtness about a week before the show
有些事失败了 有些错了 有些要改
with things coming down and not right and things having to be changed.
真的要疯了
It was really insanely crazy.
压力非常大
The pressure was super intense.
在25天内将55件系列凑在一起
In 25 days to put a 55-outfit collection together
不是一件容易的事
is not an easy task.
第一场高级定制秀以“金羊毛”为主题
The first couture show had the theme of the Golden Fleece,
“杰逊王子战群妖”
Jason and the Argonauts.
他们希望它是惊人的
They wanted it to be amazing.
我对亚历山大描述的第一感觉是
My first feeling from Alex’s description was,
他们必须是战士
they had to be warriors
伴在女神左右
mixed with goddesses.
我说 “我们要做角?” 他说 “是的 要做很大”
I said, “We do horns?” He said, “Yeah, but do big.”
我说 “但要有多大?” 他说 “你知道成吉思汗吗?
I said, “But how big?” He said, “You know Genghis Khan?
“他相当于初级的
“He’s the junior size.
“给我高级的”
“Give me the senior.”
今天是1997年1月19日
It’s the 19th of January 1997
正如他们在交易中所说 我们即将见证一个时尚时刻
and, as they say in the trade, we’re about to witness a fashion moment.
在27岁的年轻年纪
At the tender age of 27,
英国年度设计师亚历山大·麦昆
British Designer of the Year Alexander McQueen
即将展示他的第一场高级定制系列
is about to show his first haute couture collection.
每个模特都必须有一个角色
Every model had to have a character,
身份 标志
an identity, a signature.
每个女孩都可以独♥立♥展示
Every single girl could have been a show on her own.
灵感来自哪里? 他告诉我 “来自LOGO”
Where did the inspiration come from? He told me, “From the logo.”
LOGO是Gs 看起来像希腊图案
The logo is the Gs, which looks like a Greek motif,
纪梵希的标签是白色和金色
and the Givenchy label is white and gold.
李的系列一贯是 有些衣服会令你感叹
Always with Lee’s collections, there were some pieces where you’d go,
“天呐 这相当有风险”
“God, that’s rather risque’.”
我认为很多媒体都关注那些
I think a lot of the press focused on the ones
那些有点更疯狂得或者有点 你知道 裸♥露♥的
that were a little bit more crazy or a little bit, you know, unwearable.
法国设计师抱怨说
French designers were complaining and saying,
“哦 他们甚至不是法国人 他们接管了纪梵希
“Oh, they’re not even French and they’re taking over Givenchy.
“看看他对纪梵希的所作所为”
“Look what he’s doing to Givenchy.”
我想是他们说的
I think it was them saying,
“我仍然要做我自己
“I’m still gonna be who I am,
“无论你把我放在高端奢华的地方
“regardless that you put me in this posh space.
“我仍然是我”
“I’m still who I am.”
我喜欢这样 他们坚持自己是谁
I liked that, that they stayed true to who they were.
他们实际上以自己独特的方式将英格兰带到了巴黎
They actually brought England into Paris in their own unique way.
人们在讨论 那些时尚编辑
People were talking, fashion editors.
“他的嘴很大 他的头很大
“He has a big mouth. He has a big head.
“哦 英国人! 他怎么想的?”
“Oh, the British! What does he think?”
然后我明白 这世界其实对他并不友好
And then I understood that basically the world was against him.
你做了你的第一场秀
And you do your first show.
这不算一个巨大的成功 – 不算
It’s not a huge success. – No, that’s true.
还好吧
Well done.
他们希望看到他崩溃并被摧毁
They were wishing to see him crash and be destroyed.
他们张牙舞爪
They have claws and knives
他们把一切甩给你
and they’re throwing everything into your back,
但没事 因为我是个很好的斗士!
which is fine cos I’m a good fighter!
之后我记得我们
I remember us afterwards.
你知道 李是…
You know, Lee was…
哦 地狱般的 是的
Oh, hellish, yeah.
那是一个非常可怕的夜晚 那之后是一个艰难的夜晚
That was a really horrid night. It was a difficult night after that.
一些争斗和争论
A few punches and arguments.
我觉得他为东家做了很多了
I think he’s done a lot with the house,
因为纪梵希有很多新闻
because Givenchy have had a lot of press.
还有更棘手的 因为麦昆是伦敦的麦昆
It’s a more difficult thing to deal with cos McQueen is McQueen in London.
纪梵希准备让一名巴黎人接管
Givenchy is taking over from another man in Paris.
正如亚历山大所说 “就像把恐龙带出了海”
As Alexander says,”lt’s like taking a dinosaur out of the sea.”
而且我认为在一个季内他就完成了
And I think in one season he’s done that.
所以我想在一年内他会完成20次
So I think in a year he will have done 20 times that.
纪梵希改变了一切
Givenchy changed everything.
有趣的时光结束了
The fun times were over.
我有一个讲♥法♥语的会计
I had an accountant who spoke French.
他们前往巴黎签署协议
They were going to Paris to sign the deal.
我说 “拜托 请确保伊西得到一些东西”
And I said, “Please, make sure Issie gets something out of it.”
然后我这么问麦昆
And then I kind of did ask McQueen
他说 “伊西和我不是钱的事”
and he said, “Issie and I are not about money.”
当这笔钱来了 亚历山大把她赶了出来…
When the money did come and Alexander cut her out…
那非常令人难过
That was very tough.
他们的友谊变了 她对这种拒绝很伤心
Their friendship changed. She was so hurt at this rejection.
她有一些憧憬 她本希望在纪梵希开一家沙龙
She’d have created a buzz. She’d have had a salon at Givenchy.
她本想让那里成为巴黎最有前景的地方
She’d have made it the most happening place in Paris.
我记得在纪梵希结束后直接去了希尔斯
I do remember going to Hilles straight after the takeover at Givenchy.
你无法想象他们两人在这个房♥间里的紧张关系
You cannot imagine the tension between the two of them in this room.
这些设计师认为你成就了我
These designers think that you made me.
但从未如此 – 不 他们没有
And it’s never been about that. – No, they don’t.