麦昆（2018）

因为他像个老妇人一样坐着
because he was sitting like an old lady,
他的针和他的顶针
his needle and his thimble.
你可以感觉到他…
You can feel like he’s…
这对他就像一种疗法
It’s kind of a therapeutic work for him.
他进入一种境界
He went into a sort of zone.
我常常说他的眼睛变黑了
I always used to say his eyes went black
因为他突然专注于他正在做的事情
because he suddenly was focusing on what he was doing
他几乎听不到别人的声音
and he almost couldn’t hear anybody else.
他可以自♥由♥地画一件夹克
He could draft a jacket, free-hand,
只是用一支粉笔 所以他不用测量
just with a piece of chalk, so he wasn’t using measurements.
他可以用眼睛读出某人的身体尺寸
He could just, from his eye, read someone’s body measurements
然后能够把它画到一块布上
and then be able to draw that out onto a bit of cloth.
李的内心很浪漫
At heart, Lee was a romantic,
那种浪漫是由人与人的关系
and that romantic is because of that physical relationship
传递到生产中
to what you produce,
然后以某种方式激发了工艺上的想法
which then comes back to that idea of craft in a way.
家庭总能受邀参加秀
The family always got invites to the shows.
我的奶奶在那里非常重要
It was very important that my nan was there.
他真的很想让我奶奶感到骄傲
He really wanted to make my nan proud.
蕾妮姨妈和妈妈确保这些模特吃上一些三明治
Aunt Renee and Mum made sure that the models had some sandwiches.
妈妈可能会做她的香肠卷
Mum would have probably done her sausage rolls.
我们这群年轻的非常酷的英国模特
We were all, as a group of young, really cool, English models,
非常兴奋见到这个有名的男人
so excited to see this man that had this reputation.
我很惊讶 所有这些人 摄影师…
I was just amazed. All these people, photographers…
我想 “我的天 他们都来为了见到李
And I thought, “My God, they’re all here to see Lee.
“我希望他们不会失望”
“I hope they’re not disappointed.”
因为我想
Because I thought,
“这只是来自斯特拉特福德的李”
“This is just Lee from Stratford.”
那黑暗
The darkness,
进入一个人心灵最深最隐秘的地方
the going to the depths and the recesses of one’s mind
才能想出像“高原强♥暴♥”这样的东西
to come up with such things like Highland Rape.
“我想要推出一些看起来像刚受到强♥暴♥的女孩”
“I’m going to send down loads of girls who look like they’ve just been raped.”
然后我们看起来都像是从树篱中走出来的
And then we were all looking like we’d come out of a hedge backwards
我说 “这是头发和化妆吗?”
and I was going, “Is this the hair and make-up?”
它们不是常见的服装
They’re not easy garments to look at.
它们看起来像犯罪现场的东西
They do look like something from a crime scene.
老实说 我只是觉得他真的不喜欢女人
I honestly just thought that he really just didn’t like women,
他不喜欢模特 他什么都不喜欢
he didn’t like the models, he didn’t like anything,
他只是想折磨我们所有人
he was just trying to torture us all.
但他的愿景
But his vision,
当你真的去想的时候
when you actually came down,
还有光影
and the silhouette
他让你看起来非常特别
and the way he made you look was so extraordinary.
我不认为我真的明白 因为那时我15岁
I don’t think I really understood, because I was 15 at the time,
究竟在做什么或它的内涵是什么
exactly what was going on or the connotations of it.
直到第二天我才读到报纸
It wasn’t until probably the next day that I read the newspapers.
而且 你知道 有很强烈的反对意见
And, you know, there was quite a backlash
针对这场秀的涵义
of the statement of the show.
我的意思是 非常激烈
I mean, it was pretty intense.
但他登上了所有的头条 这就是他想做的事情
But he made every single headline and that’s what he wanted to do.
而他肯定做到了
And he sure got it.
朱迪思·彻奇 达格南的议员
Judith Church, MP for Dagenham,
认为不该出现这样的秀
thought there was no excuse for such a show.
这场秀的主题“高原强♥暴♥”
The very title of the show, Highland Rape,
是为了使人震惊 为了吸引公众目光
has been done to shock people. It’s been done to attract publicity.
它成功了 但在某种程度上 是令人悲伤的
It has succeeded and that, in a way, is sad,
因为我觉得女人想要看到时尚
because I think women want to look at fashion,
但她们不想看到
but they don’t want to see it
以某种方式将她们表现成受害者
in some way as portraying them as a victim.
我不是厌恶女人 这个想法是向公众说
I’m not a misogynist. The idea was saying to the public,
“男人从女人那里拿走 女人不给”
“A man takes from a woman. The woman’s not giving it.”
强♥暴♥就是这样
That’s what rape is.
我的大姐曾被丈夫严重殴打
My oldest sister was badly beaten up by her husband.
当你八岁的时候 你看到你的姐姐被她的丈夫勒死
When you’re eight years old and you see your sister strangled by her husband,
感谢上帝 他现在死了
who’s now dead, thank God,
你知道 你想做的就是让女人看起来更强壮
you know, all you wanna do is make women look stronger.
你可能不喜欢他展示给你的诚实
You might not like the honesty he was presenting you with,
你可能会发现那令人反感 令人震惊 带有挑衅
you might find it distasteful, shocking or aggressive
甚至厌恶女人 但对他来说这是他的真♥相♥
or misogynistic, but for him it was his truth.
这些服装都给你讲述着李
Those garments all tell you about Lee
它们就像坦诚的
and they’re almost like confessional.
那些确实涉及他童年发生的事情
They do relate to things that happened in his childhood.
我们只是在公♥寓♥里 实际上那是傍晚了
We were just in our flat. It was literally in the middle of the evening.
他说 “哦 顺便说一下 我曾受过虐待
And he said, “Oh, by the way, I was abused
“在我还是个孩子的时候被我的姐夫”
“when I was a child by my brother-in-law.”
刚开始说 他就哭了
It just came out and he started crying
然后我们开始交谈
and then we started talking
然后 就在他准备要说的时候
and then, almost as soon as he started telling me all that,
他说 “不管怎样 我不想再谈这个了”
he said, “Anyway, I don’t want to talk about that any more.”
他看到的东西 我是说 对我母亲的暴♥力♥
The stuff that he saw, I mean, the violence against my mum,
他遭受的我爸爸的虐待以及妈妈遭受的爸爸的虐待…
the abuse he suffered by my dad and the abuse my mum suffered by Dad…
他们有共同的感受 他们互相宽慰 李和我的妈妈
They had that affinity together. They shared that, Lee and my mum.
他们都受到同一个人的影响
They were both affected by the same person.
他们以此而联♥系♥ 你知道
And they had that connection through that, you know.
李看到我的妈妈非常具有母亲的形象
And Lee saw my mum very much like a mother figure
和一个他想要保护的人
and somebody that he wanted to protect,
而且我的妈妈也想保护他
but my mum wanted to protect him as well.
我肩负着很大的负担
I had quite a big burden on my shoulders.
呃…
Erm…
但我总是觉得李很亲近
But I’d always felt close to Lee
而且…
and…
在早年 李看到过像家庭暴♥力♥这样的事情
In the early years, Lee had seen things like domestic violence and,
在那个时候 那一定也对他的思想产生了影响
at the time, it must have also had an effect on his mind.
而他必须离开那些东西
And that stuff he had to get out,
我认为这是一种磨练他意志的方式
I think it was a way of exercising his demons,
一种保护女性和他自己的方式 通过创造这些坚强的女性
a way of protecting women and himself by creating these strong women
有护甲武装的女性
who looked like they had armour on.
这也是对他内心的武装 你知道 所以…
It was armour for his heart as well, you know, so…
我和李之间的关系
The relationship between me and Lee,
我开玩笑说永不凋谢
I joke that it was four seasons long,
完全是因为我认为那些作品和走秀标志着
purely because I think those collections and those shows became markers
我们的工作生活如何促进了我们的关系
in terms of how our work life was also tied up with our relationship.
并且 现在回过头来看
And, looking back on it now,
我可以看到原因…
I can see the reasons why it would be…
一段关系如何与
How could a relationship work
他生命中的所有事情交织在一起
with all the things that were going on in his life,
所有他过去的事情
all the things in his past?
我想不出任何能处理那些事的关系
I can’t think of any relationship that would be able to deal with that.
你读圣·马丁斯时 第一年你要去巴黎
When you went to St Martins, in the first year you’d go to Paris
你就产生了做展览的想法
and the idea is that you’re meant to go to exhibitions.
但我们会花掉所有时间
But we would just spend all of our time
我们设法进入不同的秀场
wangling our way into the various shows.
所以我们去了这场秀 那是…
So we went to this show and it was…
有很多花 还有雪纺 李说
It was all very floral and there was chiffon and Lee was going,
“嗯 那是垃圾 那是垃圾 哦 我的天
“Well, that’s rubbish. That’s rubbish. Oh, my God.
“这是有史以来最糟糕的走秀 垃圾的要死
“This is just the worst show ever. Bloody hell.
“纪梵希 这是一堆垃圾!
“Givenchy, that’s a load of crap!
“就像给老太太的一样
“That’s for, like, old ladies.
“我永远永远都不想在这工作”
“I never, ever want to work somewhere like that.”
那是一个涉及全行业的非常令人激动的时期
It was a really exciting time to be covering the industry
因为它正在发生变化 它正在不断发展
because it was changing, it was evolving.
像贝尔纳·阿尔诺这样的人正在收♥购♥小家庭品牌
People like Bernard Arnault were buying up small family brands
然后把它们变成全球公♥司♥
and then turning them into global corporations.
他首先邀请了约翰·加利亚诺
And first he brought in John Galliano
两年后 把约翰派到迪奥
and, after two years, moved John over to Dior
然后需要另一种新的 年轻的 火热的味道
and then needed another new, young, hot flavour
带给纪梵希
for Givenchy.
所以他说…他为什么要你?
And so he said… Why did he want you?
他说 雇佣我 我就是他的马
He said when I was hired that I was his horse.
我不知道是因为外观还是什么 但…
I don’t know if that’s in looks or what, but…