麦昆（2018）

他就剪了这件衣服 装上一个拉链
And he just cut this dress, put a zip in it
然后突然上了T台
and suddenly that went down the runway.
找到一个轮胎 滚在西服上
Getting a tyre and running it over the suit.
像这样的东西 真是天才
Things like that. Just genius.
4英镑的蕾丝
£4 worth of lace.
1英镑的隐形拉链
Invisible zip, £1.
喷涂汽车漆
Sprayed with car spray paint.
它们的成本可能不到10英镑
They probably cost less than £10, those dresses, to make.
但是 通过李的切割和制♥造♥ 神奇的炼金术
But, through that weird alchemy of being cut and made by Lee,
突然来了订单
suddenly they’re being requested.
阿维顿希望为莎朗·斯通打造这件衣服
Avedon wanted to have this dress for Sharon Stone.
所以它现在必须在美国
So it has to be in America now.
“我们需要有人在协和式飞机上穿着这件衣服”
“We need someone to fly over with the dress on Concorde.”
这仍然让我感到不安 我没有上过协和式飞机
That still upsets me to this day. I didn’t get to go on Concorde.
是我
It was me.
这是我认为疯狂冲昏了头脑的时期
That’s almost the period where I think, the madness really kicked in.
秀非常棒 但明天我会醒来思考
The show was brilliant but I’ll wake up tomorrow and think,
“我要一瓶牛奶 我去哪里找42便士?”
“I’ve got to get a bottle of milk. Where am I going to get 42p from?”
我们去了麦当劳
We went to a McDonald’s.
我们要了两个芝士汉堡 两包薯条 两杯可乐
We got two cheeseburgers, two fries, two Cokes.
而我感到很累 我掉了托盘
And I was that tired that I just dropped the tray
然后我们不得不从地板上捡食物
and then we had to pick the food up off the floor.
我想 “这是一个奇怪的世界
And I thought, “This is a weird world,
“你刚完成了伦敦时装周的压轴
“that you’ve just shown the finale of London Fashion Week
“但我们连5英镑的饭钱都没有”
“but we haven’t got five quid to eat.”
就是这样 人们必须明白这一点
That’s how it is. People have got to understand that.
你在做该死的秀 而你不得不面对生活
You’re doing fucking fab shows but you’ve got to start living.
时装秀 你知道 BBC1电视台
The Clothes Show, you know, BBC One.
当时有1200万观众 你今年22岁
At the time 12 million viewers. You’re 22 years old.
你没有任何一个镜头
You’re not in any of the shots
你还要表现自己
and you’re dictating the terms on how you’re going to appear.
因为我做秀用的钱
Because I was doing the shows
是我的失业救济金
on money that I got from unemployment benefit,
我不能在镜头前露面
I could not afford to show my face on camera
因为我会因工作和签约而被捕
because I would be arrested for working as well as signing on.
它让你恼火吗? – 不
Did it piss you off? – No.
应该结束了 就这样
It should have done. That was the idea.
我真的是那个“东区小混混”
I really worked that East End yob,
把流氓和和裁缝交织起来
this juxtaposition between a hooligan and someone that uses a needle.
人们无法理解它
And people couldn’t fathom it.
所以这是新的 这是一股清新空气
So it was new. It was a breath of fresh air.
裁缝街 伦敦佬 叮咚 所有这些
Savile Row, Cockney geezer, ding dong, all of that.
他知道那是多么诱人
He was aware how seductive that was.
当我读到这篇文章时 我有点恼火
I get a bit annoyed when I read that.
他绝不是一个坏男孩
He was far from a bad boy.
事实上 他是一个非常有爱心 快乐的孩子
In fact, he was a very loving, happy child
非常慷慨
and very generous.
美丽的脸 嗯?
Beautiful face, huh?
我记得有一次我去他家时
I just remember this one time when I went round his house.
我想我当着他妈妈的面说了“该死”还是什么的
I think I said something was shit or something in front of his mum.
他转过身 瞪着我说
He turned round, glared at me and said,
“你♥他♥妈♥不该在我老妈面前说脏话”
“Don’t you fucking swear in front of my fucking mother.”
我们从来不是人们所说的穷♥人♥
We were never what people called poor.
我丈夫是伦敦出租车司机
My husband was a London taxi driver.
即使有六个孩子
Even though there was six children,
他们都拥有应有的一切
they all had everything that they should have had.
我不知道 似乎…
I don’t know, it just seems…
就像 诚实 这里很诚实
Like, honest, an honest place round here.
如果你知道我的意思 你知道你站的这个地方
You know where you stand, if you know what I mean.
如果有人要抢劫你 他们会提前告诉你
If someone’s going to mug you, they tell you before they do it.
我开个玩笑
I’m only joking.
受我们爷爷熏陶 他也很有幽默感
From our granddads, he got the sense of humour,
这有时很极端
which was, at times, wicked.
我认为他努力摆脱那种背景
I think that he struggled coming out of that background
并走向世界
and going into the world.
我选择告诉父亲
I made the choice to come out to my father.
我已经告诉我所有的兄弟姐妹和阿姨
I’d told all my brothers and sisters and aunts,
但我父亲是伦敦出租车司机
but my father was a London taxi driver.
他晚上回家说
He would come home at night and say,
“天啊 我昨晚在SOHO区差点撞上一个怪人”
“God, I nearly run over a bloody queer last night in Soho.”
我不得不处理这件事
I’d have to deal with this.
我父亲有时有点苛刻 但他在开玩笑
My dad could be a bit cutting sometimes, but he was joking.
如果你不了解他 你可能会误会
And if you didn’t know him, you’d probably take that the wrong way.
李的父亲说 “去布里克巷卖♥♥衣服”
Lee’s father was saying, “Sell your clothes in Brick Lane,”
从来没有完全理解李在做什么
never quite understanding what Lee was doing.
我父亲希望我成为某个机械师或者什么
My dad wanted me to be some sort of mechanic or something,
但是…从来没有那样过
but… It never worked out that way.
从我们奶奶那他学会讲故事
From our nan he got that storytelling,
维多利亚时代的黑色浪漫
that dark romance of the Victorian times.
我认为那真的很适合他的愿景
I think that really lent itself to his visions
他想要讲的故事
of the stories that he wanted to tell.
没关系 妈妈
It’s all right, Mother.
哦 妈妈 来 – 不 我太难看了
Oh, Mother, come here. – No, I’m too ugly.
她非常坚强有力
She was very strong and powerful
还有很多说不出的东西
and quite a lot was unsaid,
但是 我的天 你意识到他们之间有很强的关系
but, my God, you realised there was a really strong bond between them.
她让他觉得自己可以做任何事情
She made him feel like he could do anything.
我总是鼓励他们去阅读
I always encouraged them to read
去拥有很多书籍
and have lots of books
因为我自己喜欢历史和类似的东西
because I myself loved history and things like that.
这是一本关于高地氏族的
That’s one about a Highland clan.
她在研究麦昆家族的家谱
She was looking into the genealogy of the McQueen family
为了证明
and aimed at proving
麦昆家族源自斯凯岛的麦昆氏族
that the McQueens came from McQueens of the Isle of Skye.
它打开了他的世界
It opened up his world.
他出生在斯特拉特福德 但他知道他有另一种
He was born in Stratford, but he knew there was this other life for him
来自苏格兰的生活
which came from Scotland.
她鼓励那种幻想
She encouraged the sort of fantasy
和对于事物的兴奋感
and excitement of those stories
而李确实继承了
and Lee went with it.
有两种类型的苏格兰人与
You have two types of Scotland people will associate themselves with,
维维安·韦斯特伍德浪漫的苏格兰大方格巾有关
the Vivienne Westwood romantic Scotland, swathes of tartan silk.
我的祖先是苏格兰的雅各布派
My ancestry is the Jacobites of Scotland.
英国和苏格兰的战争
The war of the English and the Scottish
英国人强♥奸♥妇女 几乎杀光了部族
where the English raped loads of women, killed clans completely off.
那就是种族灭绝 是那时候
It’s like a form of genocide. It was then.
人们没有意识到这一点
And people don’t realise this.
我是说 比如波斯尼亚 你见了多少死人?
I mean, take Bosnia. How many dead people have you seen?
波斯尼亚有数百万死者
There’s millions of dead people in Bosnia.
最后就是种族灭绝
It’s just genocide in the end.
人们必须意识到它仍然在今天的世界中继续存在
People have got to realise that it still goes on in the world today.
他身上有些不同
There was something different about him.
他拥有这种艺术能量而不是时装设计师
He had this artistic energy in him rather than like a fashion designer.
我打电♥话♥给他母亲说 “我想为你儿子工作”
I rang his mother and said, “I want to work for your son.”
她给了我地址 一大早我就去了
She gave me the address and I went one morning
从那以后 我们每天都在忙
and ever since, we were working every day
“高原强♥暴♥”系列
on the Highland Rape collection,
尽快准备好那些衣服
trying to get the pieces ready.
有时候
There were times
当他尚未开始制♥作♥该系列时 它就要到期了
when he hadn’t yet started working on the collection and it was due soon
他会一个接一个地画
and he would do one drawing after another,
一个接一个 一个接一个
after another, after another, after another
一晚上做出一个系列
and there was a collection in one evening.
非常快 非常流畅
Very quick, very fluid.
他晚上也非常有创意
He was also very creative at night.
他的肾上腺素更活跃了
His adrenaline was much more alive
而我们通常习惯放音乐
and we usually used to put music.
他会听钢琴 这变得非常重要
He would listen to the piano and it became very important.
作曲家迈克尔·尼曼成为他团队的一员
The composer Michael Nyman became part of his team.
我很高兴看着他
I was just enjoying myself to watch him