麦昆（2018）

而我说
And I was like,
“你不先看看我的一些作品吗?”
“Don’t you need to see some of my work first?”
我以前从未做过秀 你知道 所以…
I’d never done a show before, you know, so…
他说 “不 不 不 不 我知道的 我知道的”
And he’s like “No, no, no, no. I can tell I can tell.”
有一天他对我说 “我决定做自己的系列”
He said to me one day, “I’ve decided to do my own collection.”
我记得我想 “他凭什么认为他会有生意
I remember thinking “How on earth does he think he’s gonna have a business
“做一个系列?
“and make a collection?
“他一无所有 他没有钱 没有资金 没有工作室
“He’s got nothing. He’s got no money, no wherewithal, no studio,
“没有人支持他 也没有背景”
“nobody to support him and nothing behind him.”
但他决定这就是他要做的事情
And yet he was determined this was what he was going to do.
我靠失业救济金度日
I survived on unemployment benefit
我买♥♥了所有我要的面料
and I bought all my fabrics.
我用我的面包钱买♥♥了所有的面料
I bought all my fabrics with my dole money.
然后我去找我的父母吃烤豆
And I went round to my parents for baked beans
喝汤 就是这样
and tins of soup and things like that.
这是我的狗
This is my pooch.
他对我说 “我真的该有一个LOGO”
He said to me, “I really need to get a logo.”
我们问我当时的男朋友他是否会设计它
We asked my boyfriend at the time if he would design it.
是我的主意把“C”放在里面
It was my idea to put the “C” inside the
但是戴夫设计了其余部分
but then Dave designed the rest of it.
他非常神奇 可以让人们为他做大量的工作
He was fantastic at getting people to do a phenomenal amount of work for him.
而且我们从来没有得过报酬
And we were never, ever paid.
事实上 我们付钱为他工作
In fact, we were paying him to work for him.
多么有趣?
How amazing is that?
只是成为其中的一部分 成为他愿景的一部分 是的
Just to be part of it, be part of his vision, yeah.
他有那种 即使最开始 就有那种拉动力
He had that, even from the very beginning, that pull.
这太不羁了 沃霍尔
It’s so bohemian. Warhol.
是啊
Yeah.
舞向成功吧 来吧!
Dance your way to success. Come on!
伊莎贝拉非常喜欢称他为亚历山大
Isabella was very keen to call him Alexander.
她认为作为设计师听起来更好
She thought it sounded better as a designer.
听起来更宏伟 更浪漫
It sounded grander and more romantic.
伊西因想让他变得尊贵而受到批评
Issie got criticised for trying to make him posh.
又如何呢? 对伊西好
So what? Good for Issie.
她只是想让他成功 她做到了
She was just trying to make him successful. And she did.
亚历山大·麦昆成了一个品牌
Alexander McQueen is a brand.
你为什么这么爱她 李?
Why do you love her so much, Lee?
因为她和我一样 她不在乎别人的想法
Cos she’s the same as me. She doesn’t care what people think.
其实最重要的是 我们…
At the end of the day we’re…
我们是独♥立♥于其他人的
We’re separate entities to everyone else
我们对事物有自己的看法
and we have our own personal view about things.
当你爱上某个东西
When you fall in love with something,
你培育它 你照顾它就像你的…花♥园♥
you nurture it and you look after it like it’s your… Garden.
培养人的花♥园♥ 他们做饭 他们做同样的事
People garden, they cook, they do the same thing.
我的食材是衣服
My ingredients are clothes.
她把他介绍给大家 她支持他
She introduced him to everyone. She championed him.
所以我想最初开始与她的工作关系
So I suppose what initially started as a work relationship for her
成了一种创造性的友谊
became a creative friendship.
她是一个总是非常兴奋的人
She was someone that was always really excited
希望看到下一步和新事物
and wanted to see the next thing and the new thing
并且想要推动人们
and wanted to push people.
那从来都不是钱的问题
It was never about money.
我从来没有看到他们被钱困扰
I never saw any money going backwards and forwards between them.
我只记得90年代中期的笑声和激动人心的创造力
I just remember the laughter, the exciting creativity of the mid-’90s.
他们一起冒险 坐在火箭上奔向月球
And the adventure they were on this rocket they shot to the moon.
我相信你是个饥饿的小东西
I’m sure you’re a hungry little thing.
早期的日子非常快乐
The early days were very happy days.
它们很短暂 但它们很漂亮 很有趣
They were short times, but they were beautiful and they were funny.
伊西没有孩子
Issie didn’t have children
所以她把母爱送给了她的门生
so she threw her maternal love to her protege.
我期待见到他 因为他给我很多欢乐
I looked forward to seeing him cos he made me laugh so much.
伊西和麦昆有一种非常强烈的幽默感
Issie and McQueen had a very dirty sense of humour.
麦昆描述伊西为卢克雷齐娅·博尔贾
McQueen would describe Issie as a cross between Lucrezia Borgia
和比林斯门卖♥♥鱼娘的合体
and a Billingsgate fish wife.
伊西有一种非常粗俗的幽默
Issie had a very vulgar humour.
我总是发现有点XX和XX…
I always found the cocks and the cunts slightly…
总是有点…哦!
Always a bit… Oh!
我并不能真正跟上他们露骨的幽默
I wasn’t really into their earthy humour.
然而 粗俗的麦昆明白 然后伊西更坏了
However rude McQueen got, Issie was even worse.
他们喜欢像这样互相戏弄 而且非常过火
They loved to play off each other like that and be outrageous.
我知道亚历山大喜欢鸟
I know Alexander loves birds
所以我有菲利普设计的这顶鸟帽
so I’ve got this bird hat on designed by Philip.
我们明天去鹰猎 因为亚历山大有一个非常…
We’re going to do some falconry tomorrow cos Alexander’s got a very…
他对鸟充满热情
He’s passionate about birds.
我们明天下午去鹰猎
We’re going to fly some falcons tomorrow afternoon.
我们去过希尔斯几次
We did go and stay at Hilles a few times.
你最后会沉浸在伊西的衣柜里
You would end up diving into Issie’s dressing-up box
我们都会穿上
and we’d all be wearing
奇异的服饰进餐 就是那样
fantastical costumes for dinner and things like that.
她居住的世界不同于
The world she inhabited was so far removed
我们任何人的世界
from the world that any of us had come from.
那里有一种不真实
There was a sort of unreality to it.
每次我们去那所房♥子时 你就会感到宾至如归
Whenever we went to that house, you just felt so at home.
而且我觉得李在那里感到非常自在
And I think Lee felt very at home there.
他们有这个大姐姐 一个有趣的人 也是一个令人发指的人
They had this big sister, a fun person to be with, who was outrageous.
与伊西一起 “尽可能与众不同
With Issie, “Be as different as you can.
“继续前进吧!
“And keep going!
“越多不同 我就越喜欢它”
“The more different, the more I love it.”
我真的不喜欢常态 我不认为是…
I really don’t like the norm. I don’t think it’s…
你不会前进 认真讲
You don’t move forwards, seriously.
如果你想要安逸 就不会前进
You just don’t move forward if you play safe.
你真的惹毛很多人
You really do piss a lot of people off.
他的第一场秀令人难以置信
His first shows were unbelievable.
人们被她们迷住了
People were winded by them.
人们走出去 很多尖刻的评论
People walked out. Quite a few acerbic reviews.
但先前的一切都相形见绌了
But everything else before paled into comparison.
我不想你看了我的秀以后
I don’t wanna do a show that you walk out of
像刚吃过周末的午餐
feeling like you’ve just had Sunday lunch.
我想要你出来的时候感到被击退或激起
I want you to come out either feeling repulsed or exhilarated.
要有情绪
As long as it’s an emotion.
如果你没有带着情绪离开 那就是我没有做好我的工作
If you leave without emotion, then I’m not doing my job properly.
就是这样
So that’s that.
亚历山大就是这样的 我觉得他的衣服非常情绪化
That’s the thing about Alexander. I think his clothes are very emotional.
这件外套就像源自一个流浪汉
This coat is, like, based on a tramp,
所以这是表现没有钱的人
so it’s based on someone who hasn’t got any money,
站在街上 无处可睡
standing in the street, nowhere to sleep.
你包裹着自己 你觉得很棒
You wrap it round yourself, you feel fantastic.
然后你拥有所有这些激♥情♥ 爱
Then you have all this passion and love
时尚 性和浪漫
and slashing and sex and romance.
这一系列不是为了生产
The idea of the collection was never to produce.
这些秀都是为了宣传
The shows were all about publicity
为设计师亚历山大·麦昆制♥造♥营销策略
and creating a marketing ploy for Alexander McQueen, the designer.
它们无法被复♥制♥
They were impossible to reproduce.
它们由塑料袋或胶带制成
They were made of plastic bags or masking tape.
它们是秀场服饰
They were show clothes.
李开始做“包屁者”
Lee started doing bumsters.
这些被剪得很低 你可以看到模特的阴毛
These were cut so low that you could see the model’s pubic hair.
这与阴毛无关
It’s nothing to do with pubic hair.
作为裁缝 这只是一个技术问题
It’s just a technical thing where, as a tailor,
你打破了身体的比例
you’re breaking up the proportion of the body
通过降低裤子 拉长躯干
by lowering the trousers, elongating the torso.
这与股沟无关
It’s nothing to do with bum cleavage.
如果你的屁♥股♥很好看 的确也有好处
It’s an added bonus if you’ve got a nice bum.
他告诉人体模特
He told that mannequin,
“把你们的阴毛对着安娜·温图尔的脸”
“Put your pubic hairs in Anna Wintour’s face.”
这只是有趣 顽皮的行为
It’s just funny, naughty behaviour.
你给亚历山大500英镑
You could give Alexander £500
他可以做30件衣服
and he could produce 30 pieces of clothing.
他看到保鲜膜 说“我要用它做一件衣服”
He saw some cling film and said “I’m gonna make a dress out of that.”
“我要把模型放进去 把她包起来”
“I’m going to put the model in it, wrap her up.”