麦昆（2018）

你…如果你要撬动地球
You… If you tap into that.
我记得我说
I found myself saying,
“好吧 我想你应该来上我的课”
“Well, I think you should come on my course.”
我无法给他钱 那很遗憾
And I couldn’t offer him money. That was really sad.
显而易见 他一无所有
And it was patently obvious he had none.
蕾妮姨妈说她在银行有钱
Aunt Renee said she had money in the bank,
与其坐在那里什么都不做 她宁愿帮助李
sitting there not doing anything, and she would rather help Lee.
她曾做过时装贸易
She’d worked in the rag trade.
她知道李有天赋
She knew that Lee had talent.
然后他回来说
And he came back and said,
“我姨妈会支付费用
“My aunt is going to pay the fees
“所以我来了”
“and I’m coming.”
圣·马丁斯是个好去处
Saint Martins was the place to go.
但我喜欢的是那里可以自♥由♥表达
But what I liked about it was the freedom of expression
还有一群志同道合的人
and being surrounded by like-minded people.
我们相处得很好 因为我们有同样的幽默感
We got on really well because we had the same sense of humour.
他总爱笑 所以他有点滑稽和不恭
And he laughed all the time, so he was just funny and disrespectful.
他会在走廊上走猫步 他只是胡闹
And he’d do catwalk shows down the corridor. He’d just muck around.
只要有机会 他就会胡闹
Whenever he could muck around, he’d muck around.
我当时也在那里教书
I was teaching there at the time as well.
他并不害怕告诉别人 “我比你懂”
And he was not frightened to tell people, “I know better than you.”
甚至是对导师
Even the tutors.
他是一个噩梦般的学生 因为他懂的太多了
He was a bit of a nightmare student because he knew so much.
我相信他让人头疼 而且会打断别人
I’m sure he was a pain and did interrupt people.
他实际上不敢打断我
He didn’t actually dare interrupt me.
但他会的 我允许的时候他也会的
But he used it. He used it as I intended him to use it.
他看一幅画或一本书
And he’d come to a painting or a book
而且 没有受过正规教育
and, not having had a formal education,
这对他来说是全新的
it was all new to him.
就是这样 他以他的方式诠释一切
And that was it. He reinterpreted things in his way.
但那并不适合我们
It wasn’t filtered through, as with a lot of us
我们太传统了
who’d had more conventional backgrounds.
我很喜欢
I loved that.
他知道应该去哪里 伦敦是他的家
He knew where to go for everything. London was his town.
“我可以在哪买♥♥到扣眼?”
“Where do I get my buttonholes?”
他会说 “你去SOHO区找马丁”
He’d go,”You want to go to Martin in Soho.”
“如果你想要面料 那你去贝里克街找“牧羊人”的布♥什♥”
“lf you want fabric, then you want to go to Berwick Street, Shepherd’s Bush.”
他会带我去男同性恋酒吧 女同性恋酒吧
He would take me to gay bars and he would take me to lesbian bars
他让我坐在那 然后他说
and he’d, like, sit me there and he’d go,
“这就是你想要的 这就是你想要的”
“This is what you want. This is what you want.”
我说 “不 我只想回家 我能回家做功课吗?”
I’d go, “No, I just want to go home. Can I just go home and do my homework?”
课程总是以毕业典礼结束
The course always ended with the degree show.
没有邀请其他大学
No other college had ever been invited, as I was,
在我在英国时装周展示期间
to show during British Fashion Week.
在快完成最后系列时他打电♥话♥给我
He called me when he was finishing the final collection
让我去看看并和他谈谈
and asked me to come in to have a look and talk to him about it.
它有所有的元素
It had all the elements.
它有(伦敦)东区的历史
It had the history of the East End.
它有黑暗 “开膛手杰克尾随他的受害者”
It had the darkness, Jack the Ripper stalks his victims.
它有探索 它背后有一个非常棒的故事
It had the research. It had a really great story behind it.
他当时在读《香水》这样的书
He was reading books like Perfume,
都是关于谋杀妇女的
which is all about the murder of women,
他对自己也有非常黑暗的一面
and he had a very dark side to him as well,
所以他在汲取所有这些影响
so he was drawing from all of these influences
然后创造出一些非常漂亮的东西
and then creating something very beautiful out of it.
这些衣服从我身边掠过 以一种我从未见过的方式
The pieces went past me and they moved in a way I’ve never seen.
我想要它们 它们很时尚 它们很经典
And I wanted them. They were modern. They were classical.
他会做一件黑色外套然后用人发装点
He would do a black coat and then he’d line it with human hair.
它里面是血红色的 所以它就像一个身体
And it was blood-red inside so it was like a body.
它就像有血有肉
It was like flesh with blood.
而我想
And I just thought,
“这是我见过最美的东西”
“This is the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen.”
这是关于破坏与传统的完美组合
it was about sabotage and tradition, which is the perfect combination,
是美学与暴♥力♥
and beauty and violence.
我认为是90年代展现的所有事物
All the things that I suppose the ’90s represent.
发现天才有多难?
How difficult is it to discover genius?
一点也不难 因为他们有天赋 我发现了
Not at all difficult, cos they have it and I spot it.
如果你对20世纪后期的服装感兴趣
If you’re interested in late 20th-century clothes,
伊莎贝拉·布罗很了不起
Isabella Blow is a big player.
我在“美国时尚”的时候 安娜·温图尔发掘了我
I was at American Vogue and Anna Wintour discovered me
我为她工作 然后我去了“英国时尚”
and I worked for her and then I went to British Vogue.
麦昆是她的骑士 她要把他带到顶峰
McQueen was her knight and she was gonna take him to the top.
她下定决心
She was determined.
我就知道 我打电♥话♥给他的母亲说 “你培养了一个天才”
I just knew. I rang up his mother and said, “You’ve produced a genius.”
你知道 他就像2000年的圣罗兰
You know, he’s like the Saint Laurent of the year 2000.
他的母亲对他说
And his mother said to him,
“瞧 这个疯女人不停地打电♥话♥给我们
“Look, there’s this mad woman who keeps trying to call us.
“她想要一些你的衣服”
“She wants some of your clothes.”
我每天打六到八个电♥话♥
I rang between six and eight times a day.
终于我得到了回应 “你好?”
Finally I got a little voice on the end of the line, “Hello?”
我说 “我可以预约你吗? 我叫伊莎贝拉·布罗”
I said, “Can I make an appointment with you? My name’s Isabella Blow.”
我到现在不知道他当时是否知道我是谁
I don’t know to this day if he knew who I was.
不 我只想要钱 我急需资金
No, I just wanted the money. I was desperate for money.
我对他也不感兴趣 我只想要衣服
I wasn’t interested in him either. I just wanted the clothes.
我没给她优♥惠♥
I didn’t give her no money off.
我说 “那些350 亲 你可以接受或离开”
I said, “That’s 350, love. You can take it or leave it.”
而且…
And…
她喜欢那些
And she loved that.
直到我去他的“蓝鸟车♥库♥”系列 我…
It wasn’t until I went to the Bluebird Garage collection that he did that I…
好吧 我只是想 “我释放了什么?”
Well, I just thought, “What have I unleashed?”
他走过来说 “我欠你一切”
And he walked across and said, “I owe it all to you,”
我认为这非常非常甜蜜
which I thought was very, very sweet
因为那不是真的
because it was far from true.
每一寸…每一寸都是他自己的风格
He’d worked every… Every inch of the way himself.
每个时装设计师都想创造一种幻觉
Every fashion designer wants to create an illusion,
制♥造♥扰乱和吸引人的东西
create things that disturb and fascinate people.
做出的衣服很漂亮
Clothes are really beautiful to work with,
但也有现实含义
but there’s also a reality outside.
有些人不想听
Some people don’t want to hear it.
都是卿卿我我 世上的一切都很美好
It’s all lovey-dovey and everything’s fine in the world all the time.
我要说的方式
And I tell it the way it is.
在90年代 你做出门的衣服
In the ’90s, you used to make clothes to go out.
你的衣服只为了那一晚
You used to make something just for that night.
你去这家夜♥总♥会♥ 这个人穿着 或者那个DJ
You’re going to this nightclub. This person is on, or that DJ.
“没错 我们要做什么?”
“Right, what are we going to do?”
我想李获取了一切 我是说 这是李的优势之一
I think Lee took everything. I mean, that’s one of Lee’s strengths.
他采用了很多波维瑞的美学
He took a lot of Bowery’s aesthetic.
这很叛逆 扑面而来
It’s transgressive, it’s in-your-face.
他想 “这怎么搬上T台?”
And he thought, “How does this translate onto a runway?”
李也用了那种狂热的语言
Lee also used that language of fetish
比如橡胶 乳胶和皮革
in terms of rubber and latex and leather
并把它融入他的时尚设计中
and put it into his fashion design.
我们开始一起出去 但我有时会想
We started going out with each other but part of me was thinking,
“也非常有用 因为我也可以缝制”
“But also it’s quite useful cos I can sew as well.”
几乎任何人都可以缝制
It was literally anyone that could sew.
他们是否擅长缝制并不重要
It didn’t matter whether they were any good at sewing or not.
他们是否愿意来工作室
Were they willing to come and sit in the studio
比如一天16个小时?
for, like, 16 hours a day?
他们会自在吗?
And were they going to be fun to be around?
李是一个很调皮捣蛋的学生
Lee was the badly-behaved, naughty school boy
总是对酒吧里的人做恶作剧
that was always doing pranks on people in the pub,
那就是我喜欢和爱的人
and that’s the person that I liked and loved.
第一次见李的时候 我住在霍克斯顿广场
At the time I first met Lee, I was living in Hoxton Square,
有一天这个家伙突然出现
and one day in pops this guy
我觉得他已经租下了楼下的房♥间
and I kind of figured he had rented, you know, the downstairs.
“来吧喝杯茶 来吧喝杯茶”
“Come in for a cup of tea. Come in for a cup of tea.”
他问我做什么
And he asked what I did.
我说 “哦 我给男人装扮 做头发 化妆”
I said, “Oh, you know, I do grooming for men, hair and make-up.”
他说 “哦 我很快有一场秀
And he goes, “Oh. I’m having a show soon.
“你能为这些人做头发和化妆吗?”
“Would you do the hair and make-up for the guys?”