麦昆（2018）

因为打开门的人
because the person who opened the door,
他换了一个人 他真的很瘦
he was a different person, he was really skinny
看起来非常瘦弱 非常非常苍白
and looking very fragile and very, very pale.
当我拥抱他时 我注意到
When I hugged him, that’s when I noticed
有些事变了 因为…
something has changed because…
他的身体只剩骨头
His body structure was just bones.
几乎没有任何肉
There was hardly any muscle or flesh there.
李进来想邀请一场秀
Lee come in with the idea of having an invitation for a show
关于那种变♥态♥
that had that metamorphosis.
他希望自己的脸变成头骨
He wanted his face to transform into a skull.
他生命中的一切都导致了这种折磨的感觉
Everything in his life had just led to these feelings of torment.
李的艾滋阳性
Lee was HIV positive.
即使这不是死亡判决
Even though it isn’t a death sentence as such,
我认为这总是藏在李内心的另一面
I think it was always in the back of Lee’s mind.
当李安静时 你能感受到不好的氛围
You’d feel the bad vibes when Lee was down.
也带来了真正的压抑
There was a real depression that was brought with that as well.
我认为李受到困扰
I think the trouble is with Lee,
秀结束后 当你努力完成这些工作
after a show, when you’ve done that build-up and you’ve worked hard,
你可以看到有一点失落
you could see there was a little bit of a down.
然后进入下一场秀
And then onto the next show.
再次
Again.
是的 秀接着秀 我不知道李是怎么做到的
Yeah, it was just show after show. I don’t know how Lee did it.
压力现在非常巨大
The pressures kind of quite immense now
因为古驰的合同 还有…
because of the Gucci contract and, erm…
你知道…
You know, the…
我现在在做男士 我也做麦昆
I do the men’s now and now I also do McQ,
所以每年大约有14个系列
so it’s about 14 collections a year again,
和我在纪梵希的时候一样 这很辛苦
same as when I was at Givenchy, so it’s hard work.
他会想要离开
He would have liked the idea of moving away
把一切都抛在脑后
and just leaving everything behind,
但因为他门上的名字 他个人的名誉
but as it was his name above the door and his reputation as a person
以及他所筑造的一切 他不能放弃
and everything he had built, he couldn’t just abandon it.
如果我老了 我还在 我离开公♥司♥
If I ever get that old and I’m still around and I leave my company,
我会烧掉那个地方 所以没有人会在那里工作
I’ll just burn the place down so there’s no one working there.
真的? 所以你绝不会让别人继续
Really? So you’d never let someone carry on
麦昆传统或麦昆品牌
the McQueen tradition or the McQueen brand
如果没有你的积极参与?
if you weren’t actively involved?
呃…
Erm…
我不这么认为 我是说 它不…
I don’t think so. I mean, it doesn’t…
因为那个人必须为我的秀提出概念
lt… Because that person will have to come up with the concepts for my show
而我的走秀非常个人化
and my shows are so personal.
怎么…怎么可能?
How can… How can that be?
我说 “你为什么不离开 李 就一年?”
I said, “Why don’t you just step away, Lee, for a year?”
他只是说 “你不明白”
And he just said, “You don’t understand.”
他说 “我要负责50个人
He said, “I’m responsible for 50 people.
“他们要还贷款 我不能停下”
“They’ve got to pay their mortgages. I can’t just stop.”
我一直在想
I was always thinking
他身上有这么多的悲伤
there’s so much sadness in him,
那很难过 你知道
and that was sad, you know,
因为他是这样成功的 华丽的存在
because he was this successful, flamboyant being
而内心深处十分孤独
who actually was so lonely deep inside.
有可能 有可能真的很孤独
It can be. It can be really lonely.
我想…
And I think…
你知道 我认为生活还有更多比时尚重要的事
You know, I think there’s more to life than fashion
而且我不想陷入“这就是我要做”的禁锢中
and I don’t want to be stuck in that bubble of, “This is what I do.”
这很好 因为你看到办公室里的每个人
It’s nice because you see everyone in the office.
他们回家了 他们可以休息了
They go home and they can shut off
但关上门后 我仍然是亚历山大·麦昆
but I’m still Alexander McQueen after I shut the door.
你懂我的意思吗? 我必须自己回家 所以…
Do you know what I mean? I’ve got to go home with myself, so…
你知道 如果你有糟糕的一天
You know, if you’ve had a bad day,
我只有自己回答 所以…
I’ve only got myself to answer to, so…
我是说 和我们在一起 他表现得…
I mean, with us, he was, like, behaving…
没事 好的
All right, OK,
但在内心深处 我们知道他不是…
but deep inside we knew that he wasn’t…
他不是100%的
He wasn’t 100%.
他能听到声音
He could hear voices.
他告诉我他们在追逐他
He was telling me that they were chasing him.
他曾经说过一件事
One thing he used to say,
“妄想症会摧毁你”
“Paranoia will destroy ya.”
我记得画过一幅画
I remember doing a drawing
画上布满很多相机
which, basically, has got lots of cameras around.
我们在想 “也许相机可以在机器人上”
We’re thinking, “Maybe the cameras could be on robots.”
总是把相机对在脸上
lt was always about getting the camera right in your face
这是监视 让观众有点不舒服
and it’s surveillance, making the audience a bit uncomfortable.
“柏拉图的亚特兰蒂斯”背后的想法
The idea behind Plato’s Atlantis
是人们从陆地回到大海
is where people come from the land and go back into the sea.
他喜欢游泳 潜水
He loved swimming, scuba diving.
他喜欢那种只是在水下不同世界的感觉
He loved that feeling of just being in a different world underwater,
远离一切
just away from everything,
几乎就像你回到子♥宫♥里一样漂浮着
almost like you’re back in the womb, floating.
你知道 由此得到的那种平静
You know? And that kind of serenity you would get through that.
“柏拉图的亚特兰蒂斯”有点像他头脑中的一项研究
Plato’s Atlantis was kind of like a study in his head
所有的数字印刷
with all the digital printing
所有的实验 图样切割
and all the experimenting, pattern-cutting.
机器人又来了
And the robots were there again.
他对我说 “我设计了我的最后一个系列 塞巴斯蒂安”
He said to me, “I designed my last collection, Sebastien.”
他告诉我 “我已经受够了这一切
And he told me, “I’ve had enough with all this.
“我要自杀了”
“I am gonna kill myself.”
“你什么意思 你要自杀?”
“What do you mean, you’re gonna kill yourself?”
他说 “是的 我…
He’s like, “Yeah, I…
“我很厌倦 我已经受够了
“I am fed up. I’ve had it with this.
“我只是想结束它
“I just wanna put an end to it.
“在我的上一场秀 在最后…”
“And in my last show, in the end…”
他说 “你还记得沃斯吗?
He said, “Do you remember Voss?
“所以 我会做同样的事情
“So, I’m gonna do the same sort of thing,
“但它将是一个人体大小的有机玻璃盒子
“but it’s going to be a Perspex box the size of a human being.
“所以 走秀结束时
“So, when the show ends,
“这个盒子会从地下升起来
“this box is gonna come up from the ground
“我在里面
“with me inside.
“然后我就…
“And then I’m just…
“我要朝自己开枪”
“I’m just gonna shoot myself.”
我…
And I…
我是说 我不知道该怎么做…如何应对
I mean, I just didn’t know what to… How to react to that.
你知道我的意思? 因为…
You know what I mean? Because…
他听起来像真的
He sounded so convinced.
好像他认为
It was like he thought
整个时尚“系统”反对他
that the whole fashion “system” was against him.
我说 “不 没有人反对你
And I said, “No, no one is against you.
“但如果你想这样做
“But if you are thinking to do this,
“你会伤害很多人
“you’re gonna harm so many people
“因为人们来你的秀看你的美丽
“because people come to your shows to see your beauty,
“你的才能 你的创造力
“your talent, your creativity and
“还有你 看你的作品”
“to see you, to see your work.”
他就像一个电影导演
He was like a movie director.
我们必须像外星人一样 他告诉我们
We had to be like aliens and he told us this.
他说 “听着 你们必须表现这样的脸
He said, “Listen, you have to have this face.
“强壮 你知道 你必须强大”
“Strong, you know. You have to be powerful.”
通过这场秀 他好像向我们扔了一枚炸♥弹♥
With this show, he kind of threw a bomb on us.
“好的 就是这样 结束了 一切都结束了
“OK, this is it. Finished. Everything is finished.
“我们重生了 我们重新开始了
“We are reborn. We’re starting anew.
“新篇章 新星球”
“New chapter, new planet.”
我真的很害怕
I was really scared.
我努力不让自己摔倒
I tried not to picture myself falling.
我希望他以我为荣
I wanted him to be proud of me
我希望他自豪
and I wanted him to be proud
他拥有如此强大的模特队伍
that he has such an army of models.
无尽的印刷设计
Endless print designs.
它可能是鱼鳍或蛇的鳞片
It might have been a fish’s fin or scales from a snake,
然后处理和蒙太奇
and then manipulated and montaged
重复图样
into a repeat pattern.