麦昆（2018）

即便我做过那么多工作…
After all the work I’ve done and…
不幸的是 李很上心
Unfortunately, Lee took things quite to heart
而不会想到
without maybe thinking about
别人的感受
what the other person was going through
或别人需要什么
or what they needed
他会很自我
and he would take it very personally
当有人离开或他觉得被出♥卖♥♥♥的时候
when someone would leave or he felt betrayed.
很多时尚圈人士都会焦虑
A lot of people around fashion do suffer from anxiety,
会患有惊恐发作 抑郁症
do suffer from panic attacks, depression.
这个行业正在自食它的自负
The industry is feeding this ego.
这有非常消极的影响
And it has a very negative effect.
对于沃斯秀 最初的概念是一个封闭的屋子
For the Voss show the original concept was a padded cell.
你开始迷失自我 成为黑暗
You start losing who you are and it becomes a darkness
到了无法摆脱的境地
and a place that you can’t get out of.
当然 李是李
And, of course, Lee being Lee,
他对这个好主意并不满意
he wasn’t happy with just this one great idea.
然后你必须在中间搭另一个盒子
You then had to have another box in the middle
作为走秀的一种戏剧性高♥潮♥
as a kind of theatrical climax to the show.
他来的时候坐下来解释那是什么
When he came and sat down to explain what it was,
他没有看着我 他说
he wouldn’t look me in the eye and he was saying,
“是的 这是关于死亡 美丽和重生”
“Yes, it’s about death and beauty and rebirth.”
“它会很漂亮”
“lt’s gonna be beautiful.”
我真的不希望重现
I really wasn’t expecting to be recreating
乔-彼得·威金著名的孵化图
Joel-Peter Witkin’s famous incubus image.
那是一副非常令人毛骨悚然的图片
It’s a pretty gruesome image
我在想 “哦 天呐 我要这样做吗?”
and I’m thinking, “Oh, my goodness, am I gonna do this?”
我说 “好吧 那么 我会做的
And I was like, “All right, then, I will do it,
“但我希望你知道…”
“but I want you to know…”
严肃的面孔 “…我是为了艺术”
Serious face. “…that I’m doing it for art.”
他看着我像是生气了
And he looked at me like I was mad
然后他看向别处 他说
and then he looked away and he went,
“我认为我们都是 不是吗?” 然后他离开了
“I thought we all were, weren’t we?” And he was off.
实际舞台设定为斯坦利·库布里克2001
The actual set had that Stanley Kubrick 2001
遇见疯狂庇护的感觉
meets an insane asylum feel.
有一个双向镜子 所以当时尚人士
And there was a two-way mirror so that when the fashion people,
当时尚媒体进来等待秀开始时
when the fashion press came in to wait for the show to start,
他们都在镜子里看着自己
they were all looking at themselves in the mirror.
音乐开始了 扑通 扑通 扑通
The music started, ba-dum, ba-dum, ba-dum,
这种心跳节凑越来越快
with this heartbeat that went faster and faster and faster.
我们不知道要发生什么 会发生什么
We didn’t know what to expect, what was gonna happen.
没有观众知道
None of the audience knew at all.
时尚是一个大泡泡 有时候我喜欢弹它
Fashion is a big bubble and sometimes I feel like popping it.
当秀开始后 嘣 你可以看到里面
When the show starts, boom, you can see inside.
但模特根本看不到观众
But the models can’t see the audience at all.
这突然变成很偷♥窥♥的感觉
It was suddenly a much more kind of voyeuristic thing.
绷带缠在模特头上
The bandages he put on all the model’s heads
所以有一种不安 疾病 和喧闹的感觉
so it had that slight feeling of unease and sickness and a bedlam feel about it.
有一次我刚做完手术
There was one time that I ‘d just come out of surgery
他来看我
and he came to visit me
他看到我到处都是绷带
and he saw me and I had bandages everywhere.
我全身受伤 他说 “真♥他♥妈♥有趣!” 就像他那样做的
I was all bruised up and he was like, “Fucking wicked!”, as he would do that.
他吸取东西像海绵一样
He absorbed things like a sponge,
从丑陋中看到美
saw the beauty in the ugly,
就像我身上的绷带一样
as with the bandages on me.
生活并不完美 我们都不是完美的零号♥尺寸模特
Life isn’t perfect. We’re not all perfect size-zero models.
但是旁观者眼中有美
But there is beauty within the eye of the beholder.
最终的景象是这样
For the final image to be this one
一个布满飞蛾的胖女人 这听起来像个笑话 真的
of a large woman with moths everywhere, it sounds like a joke, really.
但我确实认为深层也有一种幽默感
But I do think there’s a sense of humour going on underneath there as well.
肥鸟和飞蛾
It’s fat birds and moths.
我是说 这不就是时尚界最糟糕的噩梦吗?
I mean, isn’t that just fashion’s worst nightmare?
每一季我看谁的系列?
Every season whose collections do I look at?
我嫉妒谁的系列?
Whose collections am I jealous of in a sense?
谁的系列我认为绝对令人惊叹?
Whose collections do I think are absolutely amazing?
汤姆在业内就像是上帝
Tom was literally God in the industry.
我想 即使李是反叛者
I guess, even if Lee was a rebel
他是一个完全不同的人
and he was a totally different kind of person,
他也可能受宠若惊 你知道 感动
he probably was flattered and, you know, touched
受到像汤姆·福特这样的人的注意并且想要他
by the fact that someone like Tom Ford noticed him and wanted him.
他也很聪明地知道
Also he was smart enough to know
他需要经济上的帮助
that he needed that financial help.
李的奇妙之处在于他是诗人…
The wonderful thing about Lee is he is poet…
他也不会喜欢这个 但这是真的
He won’t like this either, but it’s true.
…诗人和商业结合 因为他很实际
…poet and commerce united, because he’s very practical.
所以他明白你可以在T台上表达你想要的任何东西
So he understands you can express whatever you want on the runway
但你也需要衣架上美丽的东西卖♥♥给商店
but you need something beautiful on the hanger to sell to a store.
古驰集团很聪明 他们看到了潜力
Gucci Group was smart. They saw what the potential was.
他们向麦昆提供了他认为无法拒绝的交易
And they offered McQueen a deal he thought he couldn’t refuse
“我们将认♥购♥你的公♥司♥
which was, “Here, we’ll underwrite your company
“并给你50%的所有权”
“and give you 50% of the ownership.”
他们有秘密会议
They had secret meetings
所以不会传到阿尔诺
so none of it would get back to Arnault
和LVMH那
and the LVMH people.
他们不知道会发生什么 直到震惊了他们
They had no idea it was coming until it hit them.
当我和汤姆交谈时 我非常坚决
I was quite adamant when I talked to Tom
我要单枪匹马
that this was a one-man band.
所以他们让你独自设计你想要的东西?
So they leave you alone to design what you want?
百分之百
Hundred percent.
我一直在寻找重大投资
I was looking for major investment
然后古驰取得联♥系♥…
and then Gucci got in touch and…
其他都是往事了
The rest is history.
再见 纪梵希
Au revoir, Givenchy.
抓到了!
Got ya!
你在做什么?
What are you doing?
我喜欢大海 我不知道 也许我是双鱼座
I have an affinity with the sea. I don’t know, maybe cos I’m Pisces.
当下雨下雪时
And when it rains and it snows
你在海边 你可以听到海浪…
and you’re near the sea and you can hear the waves…
它非常忧郁 但非常浪漫
It’s very melancholic but it’s very romantic.
有时你需要休息一下
Sometimes you need to have a break
远离一切
to get away from everything
不去考虑商业和时装秀
and not to think about business and fashion shows
抽出时间
and to take time out.
我必须在大自然中
I have to be surrounded by nature.
这比房♥子还久
This is older than the house.
这已有400多年的历史 这是一棵榆树
This is over 400 years old. It’s an elm tree.
我们晚上会照亮它
And we uplight it at night.
就像 很好的灵感
And, like, it’s good inspiration.
我所有的朋友都来这里 你知道
All my friends come here and, you know,
我们做饭 我们看DVD 听音乐
we have the fire on and we watch DVDs and listen to music.
很美好 很放松
It’s nice and relaxing.
他会花很多时间陪我妈妈 漫步别♥墅♥
He would be spending time with my mum a lot, down the cottage.
我很高兴我们在一起度过了那段时光
I ‘m grateful that we had that time together.
我们有更多时间看到彼此 我们一起做事
We’d see more of each other and we did things together.
我的家人让我脚踏实地
My family keep me grounded.
时尚是一个非常肤浅的行业
Fashion can be a very superficial business.
当我在伦敦开始时 没有这样的事情
When I started in London there was nothing like this.
我们可以非常接近英格兰的高级定制
It’s as close as we can get to haute couture in England.
这里所有的人都是学生 训练他们
All the people here are students and it’s, like, training them up
帮他们迈向时尚世界的第一步
and giving them that initial step into the world of fashion.
我小时候李就知道
Lee knew from when I was a little boy
我喜欢画画 而且我总是很有艺术感
that I loved to draw and I was always very artistic.
过了很长时间 我还在垃圾堆上工作
A lot of time had passed and I was working at a rubbish tip
李曾担任男装纺织品设计师
and Lee had the position for a textile designer on menswear
那时他带我开始
and that’s when he took me on.
李真的很高兴我在那里
Lee was really happy having me there,
最初是创意层面
firstly on the creative level,
但后来只是
but secondly just having
一些让他回想过去的东西
something that reminded him of his past
和他的童年
and his childhood.
我们来看一下
Let’s have a look.