麦昆（2018）

小斯米奇
Sminky-Pinky.
你是说像… – “V”
You mean like a… – “V.”
“V”? 好的
A “V”? All right.
很多人说 “我发掘了亚历山大·麦昆”
Lots of people say, “I discovered Alexander McQueen.”
但你不会发掘天才 天才在那里
But you don’t discover talent. Talent’s there.
你为天才打开门 推动或者帮助他们
You open doors for talent. You push it through or you help it along.
没有人发掘亚历山大·麦昆 亚历山大·麦昆发掘了自己
No one discovered Alexander McQueen. Alexander McQueen discovered himself.
李有一个非常奇怪的简历
Lee had this very strange CV.
我不擅长学习
I wasn’t very good at school.
每节课我都在画衣服
I was always drawing clothes in every lesson,
科学课 生物课…
in science, in biology and…
但我过去最喜欢艺术课
But I used to enjoy art most.
当他离开学校时 他不确定自己想做什么
When he left school he wasn’t sure what he wanted to do.
他失业了 找工作 应该这样说
He was out of work. Looking for work, I should say.
因为我丈夫对孩子找工作非常严格
Because my husband’s very strict on the children going out to work.
一天晚上我们在看电视
We was watching a television programme one evening
他们说他们招不到学徒
and they was saying that they couldn’t get apprentices
去萨维尔街工作
to work in Savile Row.
所以我对他说 “你为什么不去试试?
So I just said to him, “Why don’t you go and try?
“去敲门 他们要么同意要么拒绝”
“Just knock on the door. They can only either say yes or no.”
然后他就去了
And that’s exactly what he done.
“安德森与谢泼德”始于1906年
Anderson & Sheppard started in 1906.
我们喜欢做与其他人略有不同的事情
We like to do things slightly different to other people.
我们有规章制度
We have a house style.
那就是我们要教导学徒做的事情
That’s what we’re going to teach the apprentices to make.
我师从一位爱尔兰科克郡的大♥师♥级裁缝
I was taught by a master tailor from County Cork in Ireland.
他是我们当地最好的裁缝
He was the best tailor we had on the premises.
你先从铺衣领 缝口袋开始
You start off padding collars, putting in pockets,
但你要做一件完整的夹克
but you’re expected to make a full jacket
准备好在第一年结束时穿上
ready for fitting by the end of the first year.
一旦你穿上它
As soon as you put it on,
它应该非常合身 你知道它是为你而做的
it should fit like a glove and you know it’s made for you.
我知道我这辈子不能生存在那种地方
I knew I couldn’t survive in a place like that for the rest of my life,
在一个乱糟糟的小作坊里 坐在长凳上 翻整衣领
cluttered in a small workshop, sitting on the bench, padding lapels.
但我的确很有激♥情♥ 而且我很擅长
But I did have a passion and I was good at it.
我擅长剪裁一件夹克 我很快就学会了做裤子
I was good at tailoring a jacket. I was quick at learning trousers.
我想学习一切 “把所有东西都给我”
I wanted to learn everything. “Give me everything.”
那是90年代初
It was the beginning of the ’90s
我在芒特街开一家定制裁缝店
when I had a bespoke tailoring shop in Mount Street
有一天他走了进来
and he just walked in one day.
他看起来像个小工
He looked like a skinhead,
但他告诉我他可以剪一件上衣
but he just told me he can cut a frock coat
比我这里50岁老裁缝做的还要好
much better than the 50-year-old tailor I had.
所以我非常好奇 我只是告诉他
So I was very curious and I just told him,
“好的 让我看看你会什么”
“OK, show me what you can do.”
我从来不用传统的方式做衣服
I never really made clothes in a traditional way.
我在尝试自己
I was experimenting myself
如何创造结构和裙褶
in how to create structure and volumes.
我开始尝试材料 任何材料
I’d begun to just take in material, any material.
并且 通过将它们放在一起 你不知不觉开始创造了
And, by putting them all together, somehow you can start to create
这种三维形式
this three-dimensional form.
他想知道
He wanted to understand
为什么我这样或那样做
why I’m doing it this way or that way.
在李17岁时 他说 “我要给你做几条裙子”
When Lee was 17, he said, “I’ll make you a couple of skirts.”
我必须说 它们非常合身
And I’ve got to say, they fitted like a glove.
它们非常适合我的身体
They were so fitted to my body
我甚至无法迈开我的腿
I couldn’t even move my legs, hardly,
但我还是对这条裙子惊叹不已
but I used to get compliments on this skirt.
我那时确实想
I did use to wonder,
“我希望他在生活中找到适合自己的东西”
“I hope he finds the right thing for himself in life.”
他是一个来自(伦敦)东区的可爱男孩
He was a sweet boy from the East End,
渴望赚钱
looking to make money.
我们需要技术工人
We needed technical help,
机械师 图样裁剪师
machinists, pattern cutters.
我们需要有实际裁缝经验的人
We needed people who had hands-on experience in making clothes.
他从不对我抱怨 从不迟到
He gave me no attitude, was never late,
总是知道他要做的 总能按时交付
always knew what he was doing, always delivered.
他总是听希妮德·奥康娜的歌♥ 这很奇怪
He listened continually to Sinéad O’Connor, which was quite odd.
因为那时候没人喜欢希妮德·奥康娜
No one else liked Sinéad O’Connor at the time
但出于某种原因 他真的很喜欢她
but he really liked her for some reason.
我一直记得他带着随身听 听希妮德·奥康娜
I always remember him with his Walkman on, listening to Sinéad O’Connor.
三 二 一 点火
Three, two, one, ignition.
升空
Lift-Off.
“红色与死亡”还是一家非常年轻的街头服饰公♥司♥
Red or Dead was this very young streetwear company.
当我对他说“太空宝贝”系列
When I said to him that the Space Baby collection
是基于登月周年纪念日时
was based on the anniversary of the men landing on the moon,
他说 “什么?”
he was like, “What?”
他不知道你可以提到一个
He didn’t know that you could take a subject
与服装无关的主题
that had no relation to clothing
并从中获得灵感来设计服装
and actually get inspiration from that to design clothing.
所以 他不明白
So, he didn’t understand
这种视觉研究的方法
this idea of visual research
或历史引用或性引用
or historic references or sexual references.
地面收到 鹰已着陆
We copy you on the ground. The Eagle has landed.
他总是问我
He must have asked me questions,
“接下来我能做什么? 我怎样才能推动自己前进?”
“What can I do next? How can I push myself forward?”
当时
And at the time
意大利的所有设计师都在开放低廉产品
all the designers in Italy were opening diffusion lines.
他去了意大利 不懂语言
He went to Italy with no language,
没有住的地方 没有钱 没有资质
no place to stay, no money, no qualifications.
我想 “一星期之内 他就会夹着尾巴回来”
I thought, “Within a week he’ll be back with his tail between his legs.”
一周后 也许10天
A week later, maybe 10 days,
我接到李从意大利打来的电♥话♥
I get a call from Lee from Italy.
他获得了罗密欧·吉利的助手职位
He’d landed a job as an assistant for Romeo Gigli.
说我感到震惊都是轻的
To say I was shocked was an understatement.
我对他说 “好的 我在做一件新夹克
I said to him, “OK, I’m looking for a new jacket.
“我脑子里有形状
“I have in my mind this shape
“但我的裁缝们 他们做不出那种形状
“but my tailors, they cannot reach that shape.
“也许你可以帮我做到”
“Maybe you can help me to do it.”
我们开始做那件夹克
And we start to do that jacket
出来第一件后
and within the first fitting
我说 “不 这不对 这不是我想要的”
I say, “No, it’s wrong. That is not what I’m looking for.”
所以 裁缝 还有李 他们又做了一件
So with the tailor, with Lee, they did one more.
我们做了第二件 我拿出衬里
We did the second fitting and again I take out the lining,
看看里面夹克 还是不对
look inside the jacket and it was wrong.
第三件 我说 “不 这还是不对”
Third fitting I say, “No, it’s incorrect.”
我拿出衬里 在夹克里面
And I take out the lining and inside the jacket
李用黑笔写着
Lee wrote with a black pen,
“去你的 罗密欧”
“Fuck you, Romeo.”
那是一次我寻找新形状
That was a time when I was looking for new shapes,
形状 形状…
for shapes, for shapes…
他如此深究和努力
And he was looking so deeply and hard.
他真的非常希望掌握一切
He was really deeply looking to understand everything.
他要离开我的工作室
He was leaving my studio
因为他想学习更多更多更多
because he wanted to study more and more and more.
你不能教天才
You can’t teach talent.
而你能做的是帮他们做得更好 或更专业
But what you can do is make them better at what they do, or more professional.
对我来说 艺术硕士的深层含义
And to me, the whole thinking behind this MA
是让他们学会团队合作 共同努力
was to make them work in teams, working together,
和你在时尚界做的一样
as you do in the fashion world.
我看到这个很无趣的 我不得不说
I saw this unprepossessing, I must say,
穿着非常破旧的
very shabby,
完全没有吸引力的…
very unattractive…
我不想这么说 但确实如此
I hate to even say this but it was true.
…男孩抱着一捆衣服在我办公室外
…boy with a bundle of clothes over his arm outside my office.
我对他说 “你要找谁?”
So I said to him, “Who are you looking for?”
他说 “我来找你”
And he said, “I’ve come to see you.”
但我没有他要找的工作
But I had no job, which he said he was after.
整件事让我很感兴趣 他很有激♥情♥
The whole thing intrigued me. He was passionate.
对我而言 这就是秘诀 真的
And to me this is the secret, really.