时尚女王：Iris的华丽传奇（2014）

-亲爱的 你要吃点吗 -不用 谢谢你
– Sweetie, you want some? – We’re okay, thank you.
欢迎各位来到犹他州
Greetings, and welcome to the launch
参加我们纽约项目的开幕
of the UT in NYC program.
现在很荣幸向大家介绍艾瑞斯·阿普菲尔小姐
It is my pleasure to introduce Mrs. Iris Apfel,
她是我们的客座教授 接下来
our tour guide and visiting professor
在纽约这周 将由她带领我们
for the week in New York City.
阿普菲尔小姐
Mrs. Apfel?
今天我带了14名热忱的学生来拜访您
I have brought you 14 eager students
我们都来自德克萨斯大学
from the University of Texas.
好的 咱们就不浪费时间了
Good, well, I don’t want to waste any time
因为我们还有好多事情要做
because we have a lot of things to do.
我选择这个项目是因为 在过去几年里
And the reason I chose this was because I’ve had occasion
我和学生们有过之前从没有的共事机会
in the last couple of years to work with students,
令人遗憾的是 我发现
which I never did before, and I find that, unhappily,
他们手艺非常熟练的情况下
they may be very well-trained in their craft,
却尚未开眼看世界
but they haven’t got a clue as to the outside world.
老圣人发完话啦
So the sage has spoken.
一听到工艺过程大家都快晕倒了
Everybody faints when they hear the itinerary
因为这很 我不得不说
because it’s really… I must say,
他们在款式上都是很另类的
they’re all offbeat fields like licensing and styling
是孩子们并不觉得时髦的东西
and things that kids don’t think about as fashion.
他们还觉得不吸引人
They just think it’s not glamorous,
但它很重要
but it’s important.
你看 所有那些很好的手工艺品的交易
I mean, all the great handcrafted trades
都江河日下了
are going down the tubes.
有些都已经消失了
Some have already gone.
然后就没有什么能留下来教给他们了
And then there’s nobody left to teach them,
之后再看见的 就是各种各样的机制垃圾了
and you’ll have all kinds of machine-made junk.
大家都听好了 这位好好先生
Listen up, everybody, this wonderful, wonderful man
接下来准备发言
is going to talk with you.
我们观点一致 不仅仅代表我个人
He is in my opinion, and I think not only mine
这也是很多人的心声 这位T台之王
but everybody else’s, the king of the runway,
他在传统刺绣和卷边上
and he comes from a long tradition
有着很深的造诣
of embroiderers and beaders.
听好咯 他会告诉你们一些很神奇的事
So listen, he’s going to tell you wonderful things.
你们得随时留意身边的一切
You have to keep your eyes open for anything and everything.
比如我飞迈阿密的时候 我俯视大地
Like me flying, going to Miami, I look down from the plane,
我看到了大♥片♥田野 就是田地
and I see fields of… you know, fields.
它们看起来就像 像一个神奇的图案
It looked like a… like an amazing pattern.
我把它画下来 然后融入到我设计的裙子里
I drew it up, and it’s in one of my dresses.
这些 将由作为设计师的你们决定
Now it’s up to you as a designer.
你会为什么而激发灵感呢
What are you inspired by?
我觉得不管什么驱使着你
And I think whatever feeds you…
你可以对数学感兴趣
You could be curious about math,
你可以对科学感兴趣
you could be curious about science,
你也可以对时尚感兴趣
you could be curious about fashion,
你可以好奇一切事物
you could be curious about anything,
但是最终 让你愈发完善完美的
but ultimately, what drives you and makes you better
就是学到了之前你不知道的东西
is learning something you don’t already know.
我永远也不会和一个
I could never be a good friend of anybody
不喜幽默或者没有幽默感的人成为好朋友
who wasn’t curious or didn’t have a sense of humor.
我觉得他两是我摇篮时期就拥有的最好礼物了
I think those are the two great gifts that I got in my cradle.
我很信这个的
I really believe that.
人们总是充满热情 而我觉得说到底
People always love enthusiasm, and I think that, in the end,
纽约是一座工作之城 很重视工作收获
New York is about work and getting a job done.
如果你穿着华丽 长相迷人
So it’s great if you’re a cute girl in a cute dress
还能踏上红毯 的确不错 但前提是
and want to be on the red carpet, but really,
这必须是你的工作 那 纽约就是你的归宿
if you mean business, New York is the place for you.
如果你谈工作
If you mean business,
我想 人们会认真对待你
people will take you seriously, I think.
我的课程能够得到延续对我来说尤为重要
It’s very important to me that my program continue.
最终会取得巨大成功的
It’s going gangbusters.
孩子们都抢着入围 学校也不会
The kids are now fighting to get in, and the school shows no…
不会放弃 除非学生自己中途退出
I mean, unless it falls by the wayside
他们之后可能找不到负责人了
and they can’t get anymore funding…
毕竟 我不能一直做这个
I mean, I can’t do this forever,
但是我相信 他们能够找到其他人
but I’m sure they’ll be able to get somebody else.
很棒 谢谢你
Awesome, thank you.
你从未有过孩子
You never had children.
没有 我们从没想要
No, we never wanted to.
我是说 不是不想 但你不能
I mean, not that I… but you can’t…
你不能同时得到所有 我花了很长时间才明白
I learned a long time ago you can’t have everything,
我想要自己的事业 我想旅行
and I wanted a career, and I wanted to travel,
加上 我的妈妈 我清楚自己心里的恨意
and my mother… I know how much I resented it.
她消失过一段时间
She had stopped for a while,
然后当我十岁还是十一岁的时候 又回来了
and then when I was like ten or 11, she went back,
我很伤心 非常非常伤心
and I was very upset. Very upset.
我感觉 我 这么说有些傻
I felt I was… I mean, it was stupid,
但我觉得自己被抛弃了
but I felt I was being abandoned,
因此 我不想我的小孩被保姆带大
so I said I didn’t want to have my child raised by a nanny.
你不可能拥有一切 这是不可能的
And you can’t do everything. It’s impossible.
有些事情必须放弃
Something has to give.
有时候 甚至要放下自己
And sometimes it’s you.
好吧 我也没那个机会去经历所有事
Well, I haven’t had a chance to go through anything.
嗯
Yes.
小心 小心点
Logistics, logistics.
好了 放好了
Okay. There we go.
加利亚诺布匹真的太棒了
Galliano’s pieces are fantastic.
是啊
Yes.
太震撼人心了
This is spectacular.
皮博迪博物馆曾举办过爱丽丝的展会
The Peabody Essex Museum hosted Iris’ exhibition
时尚天堂鸟 在 呃
“The Rare Bird of Fashion” In, um…
九号♥
09.
然后当展品到博物馆后
And then when the exhibition came to the museum,
当然咯 我们邀请了爱丽丝和卡尔
we invited Iris and Carl, of course,
来参与配搭环节
to be part of the installation.
我是在那时候 知道了皮博迪
And so I learned that Peabody
曾收集时尚品 但在我的展会开始后
had a fashion collection, but it more or less stopped
差不多就放弃了
at the time that mine begins.
所以我们觉得 这个地方会是最好的归宿
So we decided that it would be a nice fit,
然后我可以 慢慢的
and that I would, little by little,
把我的东西都赠予博物馆
give all the stuff to the museum.
我们去年开始了捐赠
So we started last year.
他们去年拿到了八十件衣服
They got 80-odd pieces last year.
是啊 嗯
Yes, mm-hmm.
可能还会拿到另一批 还会再送的
Probably get another batch, and will keep going.
噢 这些是裤子啊 噢 看看
Oh, those are trousers. Oh, look at that.
喔 还有配套的大衣呢
Oh, with a matching coat.
颜色混搭多有趣啊
What an interesting color combination.
这是个很私人的藏品
This is a very personal collection.
属于我个人的 并不用来取悦任何人
This is mine, and I didn’t buy it to impress anybody.
我很饿喜欢 所以就买♥♥下来了
I bought it because I liked it.
我几乎每件都会穿
And I wore almost everything.
有的我都穿破了
Some things I wore to pieces.
这件是绿 绿色的
This is the green… This is the green one.
我曾经一度喜欢收集传教士的礼服
I was collecting church vestments at one point.
有了这个 我就找到搭配的了
So with this one, I found a pair.
然后我把这对剪开来
I took the pair, and I cut it apart,
做了一条裤子
and I made a pair of trousers.
-这件上面有个数字 -是什么
– This has a number. – What is that?
它是黑色的 白的 还是蓝的
It’s a black, white, or blue…
-还有流苏 -噢 不 它是深蓝色的
– With fringe. – Oh, no, it’s dark blue.
噢 这件面料很好啊 我超喜欢这种布的
Oh, that’s a gorgeous fabric. That is a fabric to die for.
是啊 好像这里也没有其他能够与这相媲美的了
Yeah, as if there aren’t other to-die-for fabrics here.
但是这个太
But this one is very…
能看到真的会让你激动万分的衣服
But it’s interesting to see which ones
还是挺有趣的
you get really excited about.
看看这个
Look at this.
-哇啊 -它是编织而成的
– Oh, wow. – It’s woven.
这是天鹅绒的 看看这花边 哇喔
It’s a velvet and then the lace, wow.