时尚女王：Iris的华丽传奇（2014）

有些我们从未谋面过的商人
When you’d get to know some of the dealers like we did,
他们的店铺就像专门为我们开放的一样
they’d open up places for us like you never saw before.
他们在一个固定的时间开门
They open at a certain hour,
和一个固定的时间关门
and they close at a certain hour.
你觉得谁是那个到关门才会走的最后一人呢 当然是爱丽丝
Who do you think was the last one? Iris.
我不太喜欢总是讨价还价
I don’t like to haggle too much,
我也不喜欢像某些人那种讨价还价
and I don’t like to haggle like some people do.
你得知道砍价的时机和地点
You have to know where to haggle and when to haggle.
世界上总有地方是
There are certain places in the world
如果你不讨价还价的话
where you do a disservice to the merchant
那你就是对商家们损害
if you don’t haggle.
如果他说 “售价是50美元”
If he says, “This piece is $50,”
然后你给了他50美元 那你算是毁了他这一天
and you give him $50, you have totally ruined his day
因为他会认为 我的天啊 真是够愚蠢啊
because he thinks, oh, my God, if you’re stupid enough
立马就给了我50美元
to give me $50, right off the bat,
那我应该开价150美元的
I should have asked you 150.
所以这就是游戏规则
So it’s part of the game.
嘿 嘿 啦啦啦啦啦
♪ Hey, hey, la la la la la ♪
嘿 嘿
♪ Hey, hey ♪
我本来不想卖♥♥的 但是最后
I didn’t want to sell it, and finally,
斯塔克斯出了个很诱人的价格
Starks made an offer we couldn’t refuse,
我在现在做的这些疯狂的事情里 得到了很多
and I got more into all this nutty stuff I’m doing now…
更有趣的东西
which is more fun.
噢 我喜欢这个
Oh, I love this.
来 我给你看看
Here, let me show you.
太棒了 我有一些很棒的珠宝
It’s great. I have some weird jewelry.
哦 好漂亮啊 哦
Oh, they’re wonderful. Oh.
哦，天哪
Oh, my goodness.
好的 你先喝几口茶
Okay, you have a few sips of tea,
然后 我开始给你化妆
and then I’m going to start my grooming.
好的
Well.
哦 谢谢你 结束之后 我要来点苏格兰威士忌
Oh, thank you. I need a Scotch after this.
会不会太紧了
ls it tight or is it okay?
不会 不会 这样看上去好像一个食尸鬼
No, no, no, it’sjust I look like a ghoul.
– 你看上很棒 – 哦 拜托
– You look amazing. – Oh, come on.
这样很漂亮的 来 微笑一下
Beautiful, like that. Let me see you smile.
好的 来 好 一 二 三 不要动了
There you go, okay, one, two, three, don’t move.
我爱死它了
Love it.
现在 把你的 对 另外一只
Now put your… yeah, now that one.
非常好 漂亮 我爱死它了 完美
Yeah, beautiful, I love that. That’s perfect.
再来 好的 我太爱你这个了
There you go, yeah. I love you right there.
就那样站在那 来 微笑 再来 笑得再灿烂点
Stay like that. Now smile, again, a big smile.
一 二 三 非常好
One, two, three, great.
-太好玩了 – 什么
– This is fun. – What?
– 这个太有趣了 – 是的
– This is fun. – It is.
好的 一 二 眼睛稍微
Okay, one, two… eyes just a little bit…
脸朝这边 然后眼睛 对 很好
Keep your face there and your eyes… there you go.
一 二 三 棒极了
One, two, three. Awesome.
好啦 非常感谢你 爱丽丝
All right, thank you very much, Iris.
你有没有考虑过整容呢
Have you ever thought about having plastic surgery?
哦天啊 不 哦 我非常反对整容
Oh, God, no. Oh, I’m very opposed to that.
我认为除非上帝给了你一个匹诺曹一般的鼻子
I think unless God gave you a nose like Pinocchio
或是遭遇了火灾一类的事才需要整容 为什么要折腾呢
or you were in a fire or some terrible thing, why mess?
因为你不知道你最后会整成什么样子
Because you don’t know how it’s going to come out.
可能会比之前更糟
You could come out worse than when you started.
我的意思是 我认得好些非常重要的人士
I mean, some very important people I know go…
他们整完之后 跟毕加索差不多
They come out looking like Picasso.
这不… 为什么呢
It’s not… Why?
为什么你会想去整容 只是为了除掉一点皱纹吗
Why do you want to do it for, a few wrinkles?
我觉得完全没有必要这么做
I see no reason for it.
我是说 也许在娱乐界闯荡的人
I mean, maybe people in show business
会不得已去让自己看起来年轻或者怎么样
who are obliged to look young or something,
但是每个人都知道你年龄到底多大
but everybody knows how old you are,
然而你那骨瘦如柴 饱经风霜的手
and then you have the scrawny old hands
却跟你的脸非常不搭
that don’t go with your face,
而有的人会开始下垂
and some people start to fall down.
我 不喜欢
I… No.
在我第一次见到爱丽丝的时候
I first met Iris when a friend
一个估价员朋友说
who is an appraiser said,
我刚遇到了一个女士
“I’ve just met a woman with the most remarkable
她有许多吸人眼球的珠宝时装收藏
collection of couture costume jewelry.
她可能有一两件收藏
She probably has one of the two best collections
是全美最赞的
in the United States.”
这就是一切的开始
That was the beginning.
那时候 我还在纽约时装学院工作
I was working at F.L.T. At the time,
她是我们在时装学院展会的最棒的出借人
and she was one of the great lenders to our exhibitions
纽约时装学院
at F.L.T., the Fashion Institute of Technology.
因此我们成为了朋友 我在社交场合见过她
So we became friends, and I saw her socially,
在大都会博物馆的相遇之后 交际逐渐开始起来
and even after we started at the Met,
那次是一次向她借东西的机会
there was occasion to borrow from her.
我们策划了一个展示 但是在即将开始的时候
We had a show that was planned, and at the very last minute,
出了点状况 导致我们
there was something that happened that it couldn’t be…
可能就不能继续进行下去了 而且真的来不及了
We couldn’t proceed, and it was very late.
那是在一个初夏里
It was in the early summer.
我认为 恩
And I thought, well,
我们不得不举办一个秋季展
we have to do a show for the fall,
那么会是什么
and what could it be?
我想到 你知道的 爱丽丝的那些有名的珠宝时装收藏
I thought, you know, Iris has this renowned collection
相对而言 会比较容易拿来展示
of costume jewelry that’ll be relatively easy to set up.
为什么不这么做呢
Why don’t we do that?
当我告诉她的时候 我突然意识到
As I was talking to her, it occurred to me
我们的合作会变得非常有意思
we could do something really fun.
因为相比于把珠宝 放在这些抽象的底座上
Because instead of having the jewelry
我们还不如把它们
on these abstract mounts, what we could do
设计成爱丽丝的风格
is style them in a way that they were Iris.
他说 “我想那将变成非常有意思的展示
He said, “I think it would make a much more interesting show
如果你可以向大众展示出
if you could show the public
与配饰的巧妙结合
what you can do with accessories.
如何改装服饰
How they can transform an outfit.
你可以尽可能的留出5套服饰吗
Could you possibly spare about five outfits?
只要你认为看上去合适 你可以
You would have 100% authority to accessorize them
自♥由♥的去搭配它们
any way you saw fit.”
所以我说 “那听上去非常有趣
So I said, “Oh, that sounds like fun.
你想要什么样的呢”
What would you like?”
” 好吧 我不太清楚 你有什么呢 ”
“Well, we don’t know. What have you got?”
此后 便开启了潘多拉的盒子了
And that opened the Pandora’s box.
当你在考虑爱丽丝的收藏的时候
When you think about Iris’ collection,
她在公园大道的住所的有几个房♥间
several rooms in her Park Avenue apartment
专门用于存放她的服装
are dedicated to her clothes.
她的衣柜是两倍高的
Her closets are double height.
也就是说 两排衣服紧凑排在一起
That means two levels of clothing jammed together
你只能看到圣罗兰裙子的很小一部分
where you’ll just see a sliver of a Saint Laurent skirt
或者是温加罗上衣
or an Ungaro blouse.
拉格菲尔德
Lagerfeld piece.
迪奥
Dior.
加拉诺斯
Galanos.
这是一个僧人的
This is a shaman…
一个中国僧人的 外套
It’s a Chinese shaman’s… jacket
但是我会把它穿成鸡尾酒礼服
But I’ll wear it as a cocktail outfit
外加一个铅笔裤
with skinny pants.
在她母亲的公♥寓♥里
She had her mother’s apartment,
也是装满她的衣服
which was filled with clothing.
她在她棕榈滩的住所里
She had her apartment in Palm Beach,
也装满了衣服
which was filled with clothing.
甚至要为一个人搭配
And so even for the person who’s put it together,
你懂的 为什么要选这件而不是那件呢
you know, what point do you select this over that?
我们知道我们要举办一个展示
We knew that this was going to be a show
看上去好像跟以往的展示别无二致
that looked like nothing else we had ever done.
但是他们特别担心
They were very much afraid
他们从来没有为一个女人做展示会
because they had never done a one-woman show ever.