徒手攀岩

应该就像是…
It should be just kinda, like…
我不知道我为什么会摔下去
Uh, I don’t know why I fell off,
我是说我知道我的皮肤又硬又干
but I mean I know that my skin was, like, hard and dry.
有些小雨之类的而且风比较大
It was like lightly raining kind of and like really windy.
很奇怪他说不清是什么情况
Weird he doesn’t even say he knows what happened.
他说的是”我 突然我就下坠了”
He’s like, “I, suddenly I was falling,”
而这让我挺惊讶的 因为我觉得
which kind of surprised me because I feel like
他一直都那么清醒
he’s always so aware.
或者也许他并不是一直都那么清醒
Or like maybe he’s not always totally aware.
亚历克斯说他徒手攀岩时相信自己有层铠甲
You know Alex talks about having this armor when he solos
我就想 作为他的一个朋友或者家人之类的
and I think as, like, a friend or a family member of him,
你也得有层铠甲
you kinda have to have that same thing.
出了那件事以后 不知什么原因
Like after that happened, for whatever reason,
它让我比一般情况更加清醒了
it kinda like waked me up more than normal.
一般情况下我就会说”他有能力”
You know, normally I’m just like, “Oh, he’s got it.
“他那么生猛 他会没事的”
He’s such, he’s such a beast, you know, he’s gonna be fine.”
但我就是
But I just, like,
对他攀岩的事感到一点压力了
am stressed out about the thing a little bit, you know?
听着 我也不想摔下来死掉
Look, I don’t wanna fall off and die either,
可是挑战自己并圆♥满♥完成一件事
but there’s a satisfaction to challenging yourself
是很有满足感的
and doing something well.
而当你确定在面临生死考验时
That feeling is heightened
那种感觉更加明显
when you’re for sure facing death.
你不能犯错
You can’t make a mistake.
如果你寻求完美
If you’re seeking perfection,
徒手攀岩应该是让你最接近的了
free soloing is as close as you can get.
感受完美 这种感觉非常美妙
And, uh, it does feel good to feel perfect,
在那么一瞬间
like, for a brief moment.
我朋友们会说 “那太糟了”
My friends are like, “Oh, that’d be terrible,”
但如果我出了意外死了
but if I kill myself in an accident,
他们会说 “那真的太不幸了”
they’ll be like, “Oh, that was too bad,”
但生活还是在继续
but like life goes on, you know,
他们还是都会挺好
like they’ll be fine.
我跟女孩们就有很多这种问题
I mean, and I’ve had this problem with girls a lot, you know.
她们总说 “我真的很关心你啊”
They’re like, “Oh, I really care about you,”
我就会说 “不 你才不呢”
I’m like, “No you don’t.”
如果我丧命了 其实也无所谓
Like if I perish, like, it doesn’t matter,
你会再找别人去 其实
like you’ll find somebody else, like, that’s not,
其实也没什么大不了的
that’s not that big a deal.
我也不清楚
I don’t know.
可能这么说有点不近人情吧
Maybe that’s a little too callous.
受伤后五周
我的脚在好转 但是还是有点肿
My foot is improving, but it still swells up a bit.
绳子
Rope!
非常经典的滑降
Pretty epic rappel.
我们就是在顺着岩壁下来
Uh, we’re just commuting down the wall, kinda.
我们不过是在享受昔日好时光
We’re just having a good old time.
客观来看 徒手攀爬酋长岩时
If you look at soloing El Cap objectively,
大概有六段斜坡
there are probably six pitches
最令我担心
that worry me the most.
就在离地不远处 需要做一些惊险的攀爬
Just off the ground, there’s some insecure climbing.
接着就来到了第六段 极限平板
And then Freeblast, Pitch 6,
就是我之前从上面摔下来的那个
being the one I fell off of,
第六段
极限平板
显然那是次糟糕的失误
which is obviously a total botch.
接着向下攀爬到中空页岩区
Then the down climb to the Hollow Flake.
第十四段
中空页岩区
然后是巨兽裂缝
And then the Monster Offwidth,
第十九段
巨兽裂缝
这将需要超越身体极限的超高难度的攀爬方式
which is super physical, difficult style of climbing.
当你在攀爬巨兽裂缝时
When you’re in the Monster Offwidth,
你的身体会被大山不断挤压
some part of you is always being crushed in the mountain.
就像世界上最糟糕普拉提课程
Imagine like the worst type of Pilates class in the whole world,
有人在你训练时拿鞭子抽打你
somebody like flogging as you do it,
还时不时用砂纸磨掉你的皮肤
and occasionally like sandpapering skin off your body,
叫你保持姿势直到你累吐
telling you to hold the position until you freakin’ vomit,
而且只要保持不住 就会粉身碎骨
and if you lose the position you die.
第十九段
巨兽裂缝
进入耐力角阶段
The Enduro Corner, in and of itself,
743米 第二十六段
耐力角
这是我徒手攀岩生涯中
would have been the most difficult part of virtually
遇到的最难的部分
any big solo I’ve done.
你的脚没有任何确切的着力点
Your feet aren’t on any specific holds.
你的脚仅仅是依靠你手产生的拉力
What makes your feet stay to the wall is the amount of pressure
才附着在石壁上
that you pull with your hands.
你手拉得越用力 你的脚才会贴的越紧
The harder you pull with your hands, the more your feet stick.
这是整条攀爬路线中对手臂力量要求最高的
The most demanding for your arms on the whole route.
当你爬到了七百六十多米才抵达耐力角时
And you’ve climbed 2,500 feet to get to the Enduro Corner,
你会精疲力尽
so you’re pretty fatigued.
第二十六段
耐力角
但一直令我最担心的
But the piece that I’ve always worried about the most
是难点 整个攀岩最难的部分
is the crux, the hardest part.
为了通过难点
To get past the crux,
你得爬上抱石绳段或是特氟龙角
you have climb either the Boulder Problem or the Teflon Corner.
第二十三段
抱石绳段
第二十三段
特氟龙角
离地六百多米
2,000 off the ground,
我拴着绳子从这两个地方摔下来过很多次
each of which I’ve fallen off many times with a rope.
特氟龙角就像
The Teflon Corner, which is basically like
一块九十度角的玻璃
a 90-degree corner of glass,
它实在是太滑了 让我十分畏惧
which is ultra-slippery, just fills me with terror.
撑着两面石壁攀爬
Pushing against the two walls of it,
就像我的手和脚都在玻璃上
with my feet on glass, my palms on glass,
还要做一些微小的调整
and trying to make these little micro adjustments
来保持平衡
to keep my balance centered
这样才能将力量平均分配到四肢
so that I can push evenly on all four sides of it.
我脚下是762米的深渊
And then I imagine 2,500 feet of air beneath my feet,
想想就觉得这事很疯狂
you’re, like, that’s just a crazy thing to think about.
另一条攀爬路径是通过抱石绳段
The alternative is the Boulder Problem.
第二十三段
抱石绳段
但是抱石绳段有一段三米的路径
But the Boulder Problem has a 10-foot section
简直难如登天
that’s incredibly difficult.
攀登步骤十分复杂
It’s a very intricate sequence.
你要让右手抓住石头的卷边 左手抓住石头边缘
You’ve got your right hand on a crimp, left hand on a side pole,
然后让右脚踩在石壁凹陷处
and then you put your right foot onto this dimple thing.
右手向上够到一块小的能下拉的石头卷边
Right hand goes up to a small down-pulling crimp,
左脚踩上只有盘子深浅的凹陷处
left foot goes into a little dish,
然后左脚向上移开 靠着大拇指撑住
and then you drive up off the left foot into the thumb press.
这是整条路径上最难坚持的地方
That’s the worst hold on the entire route.
甚至你只能靠半个大拇指来支撑
So, you get maybe half your thumb on the hold.
然后换成两根手指来支撑
Then you roll your two fingers over the thumb,
换脚
switch your feet,
左脚踩上这块难以立足的黑色斜面落脚点
left foot stems out to this really bad sloping black foothold.
换个拇指支撑
Switch your thumbs.
然后向左伸手
And then reach out left
够住一个像面包条一样的斜面
to a big sloping bread loaf type hold
摸起来有点粗糙
that feels kind of grainy.
在那要做一个类似于空手道飞踢的动作
From there, you either karate kick
或是飞扑两次
or double-dyno to an edge
才能抓住对面石壁的边缘
on the opposite wall.
有时候靠两只手做一个大的跳跃更好
In some ways, it makes more sense to do the big two-handed jump
因为你能跳到一个不错的位置
because you’re jumping to a good edge
有些地方能够抓住
so there’s actually something to catch.
但是没有绳子就想跳的话
But the idea of jumping without a rope
那真是不要命了
seems completely outrageous.
如果你没抓住 那就玩完了
if you miss it, that’s that.
但空手道踢腿的动作感觉就像你会随时
But then the karate kick always feels like you’re falling
掉到另一面石壁上
into the other wall,
对于徒手攀岩来说也过于冒险
which also feels outrageous for soloing.
老实说
Honestly, it wasn’t like,
我感觉需要非常用力才能抓住