徒手攀岩

很遗憾要播报此条消息
And we’re sorry to have to report on the death
美国登山者肖恩·利里逝世
of U.S. Climber Sean Leary.
肖恩在犹他州身亡 尸体几天后才被发现
Sean was killed in Utah and was found a couple of days ago.
德里克·赫西在约塞米蒂谷攀岩
Derek Hersey was climbing in Yosemite Valley.
尸体于星期六早上被发现
His body was found Saturday morning.
德里克·赫西
赫西同往常一样进行徒手攀岩
Hersey climbed, as usual, alone without ropes.
大部分人都在追求极限
Most people that are pushing the limits,
他们的心态是
they have this mentality of
丹·奥斯曼
“管他呢 该来的终究会来”
“Screw it, whatever happens, happens.”
迪安·波特
我认为徒手攀岩训练了他的思维
I think all the soloing he’s done has trained his mind.
他不像其他人那样受到情绪的影响
He doesn’t get emotionally affected by it the way that a lot of people do.
说不清楚原理是什么
And not knowing about the science of that
很可能是过去经历的产物
is that’s probably a product of your past
并不仅仅是遗传学问题
more than it is just a genetic thing.
人们对我有很多推测
There’s been a lot of speculation about, like,
推测我如何对待恐惧
how I deal with fear
如何做到徒手攀岩
and, like, how I’m able to free solo.
他们会说”依我看他就是个追求刺♥激♥的人
People are just like, “Oh, well, he must be a thrill seeker.
他一定有什么缺陷”
There must be something defective.”
因此当有人联♥系♥我去做核磁共振时
So when a writer contacted me about doing an MRI,
我觉得去做下检查
I thought it’s kind of cool just to go
看看究竟发生了什么 也挺好
and get an MRI and, like, see what’s actually going on.
扫描大脑 看看脑内结构是否正常
You know, scan your brain and then see if it’s all there structurally.
危险
核磁共振四区
闲人免进
检查马上开始
We’re gonna start the task now.
每看到一幅新图片时
Remember to press the button every time
记得按按钮 好吗
you see a new picture come up, okay?
好
Okay.
说不定结果证明我是个怪人或者别的什么
We’ll see maybe it turns out I’m some kind of freak creature or something.
我的好几个前女友都说
I’ve had several ex-girlfriends said that
我有人格障碍 或者类似的话
I have personality disorders or things like that.
说我有毛病
That there’s something wrong with me.
情绪稳定
Emotionally stable?
同意
Agree.
是否足智多谋 善于思考
Ingenious, a deep thinker?
否
Disagree.
是否常常对他人吹毛求疵
Tends to find fault with others?
某种程度上是的
Agree somewhat.
是否觉得爬陡峭的山太吓人
Climbing a steep mountain would be too scary for me?
情绪控制是否有问题
I have trouble controlling my impulses?
是否抑郁
Is depressed?
我的大脑正常吗
Is my, is my brain intact?
正常 而且有些很有意思的结果
Your brain’s intact and it’s, it’s quite interesting.
屏幕上方的那两个点
Those little two dots that are further towards the top of the screen,
是杏仁核
that’s the amygdala.
杏仁核 大脑恐惧情绪中枢
亚历克斯
对照受试者
有意思的是 你的杏仁体
So an interesting thing, do you have no activation
不易被活化吗
in your amygdala?
看起来我的大脑里好像没什么动静
There’s just not much going on in my brain, it seems.
亚历克斯
对照受试者
你觉得我的杏仁核是根本不起作用吗
Do you think my amygdala actually just doesn’t work or something?
你的杏仁核能起作用
Your amygdala works,
只是需要
it’s just that it needs a much
更高♥强♥度的刺♥激♥
higher level of stimulation.
大多数人觉得刺♥激♥的东西
Things that are typically stimulating for most of the rest of us
对你来说不够刺♥激♥
are not really doing it for you.
可能我的杏仁核只是累了
Maybe my amygdala’s just tired, you know,
因为这么多年来一直受着刺♥激♥
from too many years of being all gripped.
2016年秋天
酋长岩
约塞米蒂国家公园 加利福尼亚
第六段
极限平板岩
我觉得身体状态很好 但是
I’m feeling quite fit, but,
对无保护攀登而言 精神状态也很重要
there’s such a mental component to free soloing.
最大的挑战是如何控制你的大脑
The big challenge is controlling your mind, I guess.
因为你不是要去控制你的恐惧
Because you’re not, you’re not controlling your fear,
而是要走出恐惧
you’re sort of just trying to step outside of it.
不 对不起 亚历克斯
Oh, no, woo, sorry, Alex!
有些人会说要抑制你的恐惧
And when people talk about trying to suppress your fear,
我不这么认为
I mean, I look at it in a different way.
我通过一遍又一遍地练习动作
I try to expand my comfort zone by practicing the moves
来扩大自己的舒适区
over and over again.
我一遍又一遍地经历恐惧 直到不再恐惧
I work through the fear, until it’s just not scary anymore.
不
Oh, no, no, no, no.
太滑了
Oh, so slippery.
但这么多年了 极限平板区仍让我感到恐惧
But, for years Freeblast has given me the heebie-jeebies.
你站在极窄的边缘上
You’re standing on tiny edges,
岩石略带凹凸纹理的地方
small variations in the texture of the rock.
如果你脚滑了 手支撑不了你
If you slip, your hands can’t hold you.
只有靠极小的两点支撑着不掉下去
It’s just the two tiny points of contact that keep you from falling,
当你往上爬 就只剩下一个点
and when you step up, there’s only one.
看上去似乎比昨天好多了
It’s like, it looks so much better today than yesterday,
看着吧
but we’ll see.
我大概滑落了九米
I probably fell about 30 feet.
我们在那上面结了组 萨尼帮我固定
We’re up there, we’re roped up, Sanni’s belaying me,
然后我就掉下来了 也不知道怎么回事
and then I just fell off, I don’t know.
我也不知道怎么会这样 我就掉下来了
I just, I don’t even know how, I just, like, fell off.
上下转动脚踝 让我看看你能转动的程度
Show me how much you can go up and down on your own.
就这样
It’s, it’s like, you know.
我觉得看起来是
I think this looks to me just like
-简单的脚踝扭伤 -好的
– your straightforward ankle sprain. – Okay.
说是脚踝扭伤
So, you know, we say ankle sprain,
但脚踝扭伤是不同程度的韧带撕裂
but more or less an ankle sprain is torn ligaments.
-好的 -本质上是这样
– Yeah. – That’s what it is.
那对徒步之类的有什么影响
So what does that mean in terms of, uh, like hiking and stuff?
如果我把脚踝固定
I mean, if I just, like, immobilize it and then, uh,
-之后徒步 -首先
– still just hike. – Yeah, I mean,
-前几天要固定 -好的
– you gotta’ get yourself through the first few days. – Yeah.
但之后只要复健和康复治疗就可以了
But after that and it’s just strengthening and rehab.
那运动会不会让伤势变严重呢
Well, and actually, can I make it worse really, through activity?
过早过度运动可能会
You could probably do too much too soon.
等等 不用放在右边
Wait, you don’t need to keep that right.
虽然我内心也会担忧
I can worry as much as I want internally,
但如果他不去做的话会后悔一辈子
but if he doesn’t do this stuff he’d regret it.
如果亚历克斯和我结婚了 有了孩子
If Alex and I got married and had kids,
我会更大胆地说出我的想法
I would feel a lot more willing to say what I thought about
什么风险可以接受 什么不能
what was acceptable risk or not.
他应该把鞋穿上
He should have put his shoe on.
-固执 -固执
– Stubborn. – Stubborn.
我以为你会在走动之类的
I thought you were, you know, walking and stuff now,
以为你已经好了
I thought you’re fine.
我好了
Oh, I am, but what.
医生说你应该去走走 亚历克斯
Doctors said you were supposed to push it, Alex, come on.
你不想吃西瓜吗
Don’t you want some watermelon?
有个佣人帮你切西瓜可太好了
Oh, well, good thing you have a personal slave to do that for you.
是啊 有个佣人可真好
I know, I’m pretty stoked about that.
接下来是不是 不管我怎么切
All right, is it gonna be that no matter how I do this,
你都会说 “你为什么这么切”
you’re like, “Why did you do it that way?”
我只是想吃西瓜
I just want watermelon.
在某种程度上 我当时很想怪萨尼
I kind of wanted to blame Sanni to some extent
因为当时觉得 “算了吧”
because you’re just like, “Whatever.”
我有七年没有受过伤了
I haven’t been injured in, like, seven years
然后和这个不攀岩的女孩在一起之后
and then it’s like I’m hanging out with this girl that doesn’t climb
我就一直在受伤
and I suddenly start getting injured all the time.
你切西瓜像砍树一样
It’s like you just cut down a tree.
医生说”积极恢复”的意思
When they say “active recovery”,
不是让你到处乱走
no, that doesn’t mean you’re walking all over the place.
如果他不去无保护攀爬的话我会很高兴
I would be happy if he didn’t free solo.
我一直很感激他不会提前告诉我
I’ve always appreciated that he never told me beforehand