徒手攀岩

但造影扫描后
but then they took the CAT scan and then they
他们说有两处压缩性骨折
said it was, like, two compression fractures and.
他们没注意下面的
But they only focused on they didn’t focus on the lower.
事情发生后 我想着跟她分手的
Right after it happened I wanted to break up with her.
我就想 “这对我的攀岩太不好了”
I was like, “Oh, this is bad for my climbing.”
但她说 “那样真会让你生活变得更好吗”
But she said,”Is that really gonna make your life any better?”
我一想 “也许不会吧”
I was like, “No, probably not.”
这个会有点不舒服
This is gonna feel a little uncomfortable.
我跟他说
I said, you know,
“如果我们能度过这次难关 以后就都不怕了
“I think we can move past this and I think you could have it all.
你可以有个固定的女友 也可以继续攀岩”
I think that you could have a steady girlfriend and climb.”
呼气
Exhale.
结果后来压缩性骨折没有很严重
As it turns out, compression fracture isn’t too serious.
他们说我可以继续攀岩
They said that I could climb
注意止痛治疗之类的问题就行
just be careful about pain management and all that stuff.
就是运动时骨头会有点声响
But it’s just a little bit rattling.
我当然知道 有些人从很高的地方
Because I definitely know some people
摔下来 没摔死
who have fallen super far and survived or,
被树枝穿透 也没事 好好的
like, gone through a tree and sort of been okay.
现在我就想 “不行 我可能不行吧”
And now I’m like, “I don’t know, like, I don’t think I’d be okay.”
想着徒手攀岩摔下来
And so I imagine falling free soloing
或者从五十米高摔下来
or something from 50 meters up, I mean,
我的身体肯定会因冲击力大而粉碎
I realize that my body would just explode on impact.
2016年夏天
摩洛哥塔基亚峡谷
2012年我第一次来这里
In 2012, I was here for the first time
是在我去约塞米蒂攀岩之前
and it was right before I went to Yosemite for the season,
那是我在约塞米蒂表现最好的一次
and that was like my best Yosemite season ever.
你说什么 亚历克斯
What was that, Alex?
我说你已经爬过半了
I said you just passed halfway and, uh,
绳子状况还很好
the rope’s actually looking pretty good now.
这座山峰挺不错的
Yeah, pretty nice rock.
我觉得摩洛哥的攀岩
I think the climbing here in Morocco,
对于登顶酋长岩是个很好的训练
it’s good training for El Cap.
这会让他得到锻炼
It’s gonna make him strong,
有助于让他穿过丛山
it’s gonna get him good at moving through the mountains,
会让他有舒适的感觉
it’s gonna make him feel fit.
跟着亚历克斯穿行在丛山间
Flowing through the mountains in the ways
这种感觉让人着迷
that you do with Alex is addicting.
他对待危险的态度让你觉得自己是无敌的
His attitude towards risk, it makes you feel kind of invincible,
很有情绪感召力
which is emotionally appealing,
但对我来说这并不理智
but for me I don’t think it’s the smartest thing.
和亚历克斯攀岩 像是某种恶习
Climbing with Alex is, it’s like a vice in a way.
就像抽着烟又喝着酒
It’s like smoking cigarettes with beer or something.
我并没有真的想这么做 但有时
It’s like, I don’t really wanna do it but I just,
我就是放任自己去做了
like, let myself do it sometimes
因为感觉还不错
because it’s kinda nice.
-做到了 兄弟 -没错
-Yeah, buddy! -Yo!
能给我读下你今天的日记吗
Can you read me your journal entry for today?
“七点钟方向 一段下行险路
It says, “Bey wall 7C+, one fallen crux,
两次肌肉过度疲劳肿胀 需增加锻炼”
two pumped, need more fitness.”
你会在日记中写
Do you ever put things like
“看到了有生以来见过最大的桧树”
“Saw the biggest juniper tree of my life”?
不 不会写在攀岩日记中
No, not in the climbing journal.
-会写想我家狗吗 -不会
– Miss my dog. – No.
或者写想妈妈了 诸如此类的 没有吗
And my mom. I don’t know, none?
-没有 -没有 好吧
– No, no. – No. All right.
吉姆会在中途跟大家下山
Alright, Jim’s gonna follow you guys down partway,
然后克里斯会在溪谷的谷底
Clair’s gonna pick you guys up at
吉米·秦
电影制♥作♥人
通往营地的地方接你们
the bottom of the gully going into the base.
好
Okay.
然后我们会在山崖上拍摄
And then we’ll be shooting on the wall.
一旦我们超过你们
So, once we pass you guys,
你们就收拾设备徒步走到山顶
you guys wrap and then hike to the summit basically?
没错
Yeah.
我和吉米合作了十年
Jimmy and I have worked together for 10 years.
我们攀岩过的地点遍布世界
We’ve climbed all over the world.
我们还要三人锁在一起吗
We are doing the triple link up too, right?
等我们到达约塞米蒂时 会像切恩说的
I mean, by the time we get to Yosemite we’re gonna be
“像耕牛一样铐在一起”
as Cheyne says, “Yoked.”
吉米组织的队伍全是专业登山者
The team that Jimmy assembled are all professional climbers.
是拍摄攀岩影片最合适的团队
The best possible crew for this kind of thing.
某种程度上我会觉得”这简直棒极了”
And so in a way, I’m like, “This is kinda awesome.” You know,
好像我要和我所有朋友一起攀岩
it’s kind of just like I get to go climb with all my friends.
麦基 我们应当安排人在这儿
Mikey, we should put someone right here
因为探出身子时 险峻的线路能尽收眼底
because if you lean out you can see the entire freaking route.
那就把机器安在一百米外的那里
Then let’s just put the 100 meter there
往下四百米在这儿
and the 400 footer here.
放两台
Doubled up.
从亚历克斯开始挑战约塞米蒂起
I’ve known Alex since he pretty much
我就认识他了 在2008或2009年
started climbing in Yosemite, 2008 or 2009.
我为亚历克斯拍摄过多次徒手攀岩影片
I’ve filmed Alex a handful of times, free soloing.
后来我们在南美洲
And then we’ve also spent a couple of winters
一起度过好几个冬天
together down in South America.
相处时间就这样越来越多
So, uh, we, the time’s added up.
麦基·谢弗
专业登山者 摄影师
我现在经常和他在一起
Uh, I spend a lot of time with him now.
我有点害怕 因为我不希望亚历克斯出事
So, I’m scared because I don’t wanna see anything happen to Alex.
这也是我差点
I mean, it’s one of the reasons that
拒绝这份工作的原因之一
I almost said no to this job, and, I mean,
我觉得吉米也经历过这个过程 比如
I think Jimmy went through the same stuff of being like,
“我们真的要参与其中吗”
“Do we really wanna be part of this?”
对于拍摄徒手攀岩这件事
I’ve always been conflicted about shooting a film
我一直心存矛盾
about free soloing
因为它太危险了
just because it’s so dangerous.
很难去想象你的朋友亚历克斯
It’s hard to not imagine, your friend, Alex,
去做非常危险的徒手攀岩
soloing something that’s extremely dangerous
你还要拍摄下来
and you’re making a film about it,
这也可能为他带来过度压力
which might put undue pressure on him to do something,
害他在画面中坠崖身亡
and him falling through the frame to his death.
我们必须克服这点
And we have to work through that
去想明白哪怕最糟糕的情况发生
and understand that what we’re doing is something that
我们也只能接受
we can live with even in a worst-case scenario.
有趣的是
It’s a funny thing,
稍微知道一点攀岩的人会说
people who know a little bit about climbing, they’re like,
“他说没问题 他是安全的”
“Oh, he says he has it, he’s, he’s totally safe.”
而非常了解攀岩的人
And then people who really know exactly
听后却会大惊失色
what he’s doing are freaked out.
我父亲总是说”我不希望你再去攀冰
My dad was always like, “I don’t want you to go ice climbing.
我不希望你再去徒手攀岩”
I don’t want you to free solo,” you know.
那就别做 我想你父亲以前经历过
Just not, I wonder if your dad had been like.
他像我一样大的时候
When he was my age,
有二十还是三十个朋友死在山里
he had had like 20 or 30 friends that had died in the mountains.
现在我也到了那种时间点
And now I’m at that point
有三十或四十个朋友死在山里
where I’ve had, you know, 30 or 40 friends that have died in the mountains.
这么多吗
That many?
是的 前阵子我刚刚算过
Yeah, I counted them a while ago.
也不全是朋友 也有圈内人
I mean, like not friends but people in our community.
没错 绝对有了
Yeah, people, yeah, yeah, totally,
比如凯尔·登普斯特和斯科特
like Kyle Dempster and Scott recently.
有些是我见过的人 就觉得 天呐
People that I have met, yeah, I’m like, no, yeah.
目前还没有非常非常亲近的朋友
I haven’t had anybody die who I was, like,
在攀岩过程中丧生
really, really, close to yet.
我不知道
I don’t know.
我想视徒手攀岩为人生大事的人
I think everybody who has made free soloing
都已不在人世
a big part of their life, is dead now.
约翰·巴卡尔是徒手攀岩的先行者
John Bachar was a pioneer of so-called free solo climbing,
约翰·巴卡尔
上星期 五十二岁的约翰
he fell to his death this past week
坠崖身亡
at the age of 52 from a cliff.
肖恩·利里