徒手攀岩

you know, like a, a mental image of what the hard parts are,
它们都在哪里
where they are,
为了克服它们我必须做的事
what they will entail.
如果要实现这个目标的话
If I’m going to do it,
自♥由♥攀岩线路似乎是最好的路线
Free Rider seems like the best route.
自♥由♥攀岩线路
加州约塞米蒂
你好吗 哥们儿
What’s up, dude?
其实我不如直接把它
Oh, actually, I might as well just rack it
挂在我的安全带上
straight onto my harness.
你来领头还是我来
So, do you wanna lead the Freeblast or do I?
就像以前一样
I feel like we should do what we did
汤米·考德威尔
职业登山者
还是你来领头吧
before which would be you lead the, yeah,
你在前面
you lead the Freeblast.
就是说我能走多远走多远
So, basically I’ll just try to take it, like, as far as I can.
没错
Yeah.
汤米刚到这里
So Tommy just got here
他们准备去攀自♥由♥攀岩线路
and they’re going up Freerider.
好的
Okay.
我会先试着拍山的这边
I’m just gonna try to shoot this pitch
吉米·秦
影片制♥作♥人
然后拍横渡段另一边 然后
and the traverse pitch and then
我会像个疯子一样立在那里
I’m gonna jug out like a maniac.
好的
Okay.
我们有足够长的绳索完成这些吗
Do we have enough line up there to do all this?
-有的 -好
– Yeah. – Okay.
和汤米·考德威尔一起攀登酋长岩
The idea of going up on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell
是为了亲身体验整条路线 用视觉感知它
is to get a feel for the route and just visualize it.
去感受哪里可怕 哪里不可怕
To see what feels scary and what doesn’t.
天啊
Oh, God.
看看那些首次攀登时留下的绳子
Look at those fixed ropes the first climb.
从小我就把汤米当做我的英雄
Tommy’s been a hero of mine since I was a kid.
虽然小时候我没有在自己房♥间挂过他的海报
I didn’t technically have posters of him up in my room as a kid,
但其实也差不多了
but it was like the same deal, you know,
我那时候觉得 “汤米就是英雄”
where I was like, “Tommy’s the man.”
汤米向人们展示了徒手攀登酋长岩的可能性
Tommy really showed what was possible, free climbing on El Cap.
《岩石与冰川》
自♥由♥之地
《攀岩》
孤独堡垒
通向未来的峭壁
汤米探索了这块岩壁的每一个层面
Tommy is the one that explored every aspect of the wall.
他攀登酋长岩的大部分路线
And most of the routes that he’s put up on El Cap
还没有被其他人采用过 因为这些路线
haven’t been repeated because they’re,
难度太大了
they’re basically too hard.
《纽♥约♥时♥报♥》
挑战攀登约塞米蒂 抓住梦想 而非绳索
之后 他止步于黎明岩壁
And then, ultimately culminated with the Dawn Wall
体育版
挑战不可能 攀上顶峰
这是个持续数年的项目
which was his multi-year project.
汤米·考德威尔和凯文·乔根森成功登上酋长岩
以他们为荣
你们告诉我们 一切皆有可能
这可能是世界上最难爬的岩壁
I mean possibly the hardest big wall in the world.
《时代》
现代挑战者
数年来我一直向往着酋长岩
I’ve been obsessed with El Cap for years.
酋长岩极其雄伟 深不可测
El Capitan is unbelievably huge, kind of unfathomably huge.
陡峭的花岗岩壁高达975米
It’s 3,200 feet of sheer granite.
看着它 你会觉得这是不可能的
Looking at it, it doesn’t seem right,
你没理由能爬得上去
it doesn’t seem like you should be able to climb it.
我明白为什么亚历克斯着迷于这里
I understand why Alex is obsessed.
酋长岩吸引着世代的攀岩者
El Cap has obsessed generations of climbers.
1958年 沃伦·哈定第一次尝试攀登这里
I think it was first climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding,
他们共花了46天登顶 但是用了16个月
and it took them 46 days over 16 months
因为他们无法连续无休地攀登
because they couldn’t do it continuously.
他们必须在花岗岩中打下螺栓
They had to drill bolts into the granite
再把自己拉上去
and pull themselves up.
自那之后
And then ever since then,
这里成了全球攀岩者们关注的焦点
it’s been the center of the rock climbing universe.
沃伦·哈定 韦恩·梅里 乔治·惠特莫尔
攀岩者讲述最后冲刺阶段征服约塞美蒂的故事
我花了二十年攀登酋长岩
I’ve spent 20 years of my life climbing El Cap
但我绝不会不要绳子徒手攀岩
but I’d never do it without a rope.
那样一点错都不能犯
There’s no margin for error.
想象一场奥林匹克角逐金牌的比赛
Imagine an Olympic gold medal level athletic achievement,
拿不到金牌 你只有死路一条
that if you don’t get that gold medal you’re gonna die.
徒手攀登酋长岩差不多就是这样
That’s pretty much what free soloing El Cap is like.
你绝不能犯错
You have to do it perfectly.
今天我要模拟许多不同的场景
Today I am playing through a lot of different scenarios,
我要考虑步法 考虑身体的姿势
so thinking about the moves, thinking about the body position,
以及必须要考虑
and more than anything just thinking about
没有绳索时
what it would feel like to,
攀岩是什么感觉
to be in that position without a rope.
有绳索时你能靠它做很多事
There are a lot of things that you can physically do on a rope.
天啊
Oh, God.
一旦想到要把绳索拿开 你会觉得
But then the idea of taking the rope away, you’re just like,
我不知道自己能否信得过那个小小的支点
I don’t know if I’d wanna trust that little foothold.
天啊
Oh, my God,
我的脚好痛 我好累 手也痛
my feet hurt so bad and I’m so pumped and my hand hurts.
要累死了
I just feel pooped.
我们快到极限了
We’re kind of getting worked.
如果你数年来都想着一件事
When you’ve been thinking about something for years,
你在真正告诉别人前
that’s a long time to be,
这个想法♥会♥在你心里
like, sort of considering an idea without, like,
酝酿很久
really talking to anybody about it.
汤米这种人尤甚
Especially someone like Tommy.
我在攀岩时
When I was climbing, like,
耐力到达极限 或是横越岩壁时
up the endurance corner and across the traverse,
朝下看 我会觉得
I was just looking down thinking about,
-“老兄 这好可怕” -我不知道
– I was like, “Dude, this seems so scary.” – I don’t know.
你会觉得很危险 但也很美
That part is just so exposed and it’s pretty.
那种时候
See, that part again is like,
你至少还有绳子支撑
at least you have holds though, you know.
但是徒手攀岩时 你会遇到的情况是
The Freeblast slabs have like several moves where it’s like,
你的生命只能靠着一个支点
your whole life just depends on one foothold, you know.
徒手攀岩就像是一项怪异的个人活动
Soloing is like such a weird personal activity.
你绝不会提及徒手攀岩的事情
You never talk about soloing projects.
我自己徒手攀岩 从不告诉别人
I mean, I’ve done all my soloing without telling anybody,
因为我不想有额外的负担
because I don’t want any extra pressure.
攀登酋长岩的想法
The idea of climbing El Cap,
让我一直受到采访与提问
obviously I get interview questions about it all the time,
比如会问 “你真的想做那件事吗”
like, “Oh, would you like to do that?”
我就会说
And I’ve always been like,
“不会 不确定 再说吧 谁知道呢”
“No, well maybe, we’ll see. You know, who knows?”
但实际上 你心里想的是”一定会”
But like in the back of your mind you’re like, “Yes, for sure.”
我曾经很挑食
I used to be like a super picky eater.
我在19还是20岁的时候
When I was like 19 or 20 or, well,
还是20到24岁的时候 决定开始
between like, 20 and 24, I basically decided that I had
吃蔬菜 然后就
to start eating vegetables, and then sort of, like,
逐渐地开始
systematically introduced
让自己吃菜 一次吃一种
myself to vegetables, like one at a time,
这个方法很有效
which worked pretty well,
现在我几乎什么都吃
now I pretty much eat anything.
我三四年前开始就不吃肉了
I stopped eating meat maybe three or four years ago, um,
主要是为了环保
mostly for environmental reasons.
我不再吃肉后就好像陷入了
Then once I stopped I also kind of got into
不能再吃肉的情况
the ethics of it a little bit more.
我们来看看最后成品如何
We’ll just see how this comes out.
肯定有很多人
Yeah, I mean there are plenty of folks
觉得这看上去很糟
who probably think that this is, like, terrible.
我吃的是辣椒罐头和鸡蛋
I’m eating, like, canned chili and eggs.
长大以后 我不喜欢吃奇怪的食物
Growing up, I mean, I didn’t like eating weird foods,
我不喜欢臭虫
I didn’t like bugs, you know,
我曾像个瘾君子一样孤僻
I was just like a total tweeker.
我当时很内向
I guess I was quite a shy child.
有点阴暗
Bit of a dark soul, I think.
用忧郁来形容可能更贴切