徒手攀岩

但没有绳子就是押上一切了
but without a rope it is.
那就是我调整后的办法了
That’s my variation,
我还不确定
I just don’t know.
他只有在非常自信和安全的时候
I think that he’s only comfortable climbing in front of the camera
才能在镜头或是其他人面前自如地攀岩
or in front of any other people when he’s really confident and secure.
那就是整个录制面临的困境 对吗
And that’s been the dilemma that this whole production has faced, right?
-对 -从一开始就是如此
– Yeah. – From the beginning.
我们在场 总是会有所改变
Our being there is always going to change things.
对我而言 最重要的是他去年的放弃
What made the big difference for me is that he did turn around last year.
他并没有因为我们在场就感到
He didn’t feel the pressure to have to do it
必须硬着头皮完成
because we were there.
这对我而言真的很重要
And I really, like that to me said a lot.
这很重要
It meant a lot.
你是希望我们不去拍摄吗
Is that what you’d want, us not to film it?
也没有
Hmm, no.
很难说 但是和拍摄相比我更在意的
I mean, hard to say it but I care about doing it a lot more than I care
是攀岩本身
about it being filmed.
你明白吗
You know?
你随时都可以停下来
You could put your foot down at any time, and, and,
-你知道 -对 我很清楚
– you know. – Yeah, I mean, I’m aware of it.
如果我愿意 我随时可以瞒着别人
Like, if I want to, I just won’t tell anybody
-然后自己去做这件事 -没错
– and I’m just gonna do it on my own terms. – Yeah, exactly.
和其他的一样 这是显而易见的
Like whatever, like I mean that’s obviously on the table.
但这会给所有人泼冷水 对吧
But obviously that would hose everybody, you know?
如果你明早醒来后觉得
If you woke up tomorrow and you were like,
“知道吗 去他的吧
“You know what, screw all of this,
我没那么在乎 我感到不舒服
I just don’t care enough, like I don’t feel good enough.”
但那样
You know, but that’s like, yeah,
我当然知道自己可以这么做然后离开
I mean, of course I, I mean, I know I could do that and just walk away.
但是 我不想这样
But it’s like, you know, I mean, you know, I don’t want to.
第二十五段
抱石绳段
周围有这些人在 我就得有更完善的准备
Having all these people around requires a higher level of preparation,
和更充足的信心
a higher level of confidence basically.
我必须要全神贯注
I need to like dial it in so much that,
不去在意会不会有
you know, it doesn’t matter if there’s
一整个体育场的人围观我
like a stadium of people watching me
因为这对我而言轻而易举 我只要
because it’s so easy for me that I’m just like,
按部就班地来就行
“Check this out.” And just do it.
第一段 从左边一路向上爬
Pitch one, stay left towards the top,
腿尽量分开感觉会更安全
splitter, it feels more secure.
第二段 相信右脚 踩稳岩石 相信双脚
Pitch two, trust the right foot, rock on, trust the feet,
最后用右手把自己拉上去
right hand to the last under cling.
八 很容易 快速通过
Eight, easy romp. Go fast.
九 远离倒悬岩壁 小心石块
Nine, stay outside of the down climb, careful of blocks.
第二十六段 向外向上绕过山角
Pitch 26, sort of lie back and up the corner,
关键在于左手的捏点
key left-hand pinch thing,
右脚向后踩在低一点的边缘处
right foot back step on the lower edge,
左脚正对岩壁 站直
left foot faced against the wall, stand up.
左手移到巨大的耳形岩点
Left hand to the huge ear jug thing,
换脚 两手同时抓住那个大岩点
switch the feet, match the big jug,
左脚卡在岩缝里
left foot jams into the crack,
然后右手扣在大岩点上向下拉
then you see right-hand down pulling on the top part of the jug,
左手伸进张开的狭缝中
left hand goes into this flared slot thing,
用拳头或者手卡在里面
which you can either fist jam or hand jam, either way,
卡在楔形缝隙中
it’s like a flare jam in the slot.
靠这一点支撑
Sag down onto it,
右手从下面伸向岩点 侧拉
right hand crosses under to an under cling, side pull.
右脚踩住一条平边
Right foot sinks low to a flat edge,
左脚跟上踩住另一条棱边
left foot steps through to an edge,
右脚收回来用力抬高
right foot back steps really high
这样就能在岩角上支撑住身体
so you can sag your weight around the corner
而不用荡过去了
without having to swing.
左脚伸到大尖角上
Left foot out to the big horn,
右手手指插到一个小洞中
right hand through to a little finger pocket,
左脚踏住墙角另一边的岩点
you go left foot out to an edge around the corner,
可以把身体完全贴近内角
you can actually push all the way into the corner,
然后用右手用力拉 平移
then you can grab this down pulling right hand, flat,
像是一把小钳子
like a small crimp.
左手抓住另一个岩点
Left hand to the other under cling,
把脚挪到横杆上 然后一路
switch your feet on the rail and then just reach
攀着大凹槽上去 就可以了
through the jugs, and then it’s done.
通过难点的关键是用力拉 信任脚感
The key thing for the crux, pull hard, trust feet,
“信任”加下划线
“trust” underline,
两个感叹号♥ 句号♥
double exclamation point, period.
跟着直觉走 句号♥
Autopilot. Period.
乌里·斯特克在珠峰附近坠落身亡
乌里遇难不是什么奇怪的事
I mean, you know, it’s not surprising that Ueli died.
因为他总是在疯狂冒险
Considering he’s always doing crazy dangerous things,
但我本来觉得他能成功的
but I kind of thought he was gonna survive.
乌里说过进行冒险攀岩
Ueli talked about doing sketchy climbs
你总要勉强一次
that you just kind of squeak out once.
我一直都尽力避免
You know I’ve always tried not to.
但和他谈到自♥由♥攀岩线路的时候 我想
But when I was talking to him about, about Free Rider, I was like,
“也许对自♥由♥攀岩线路这种事
“Oh maybe Free Rider is one of those routes
我应该勉强挑战一次
that I just need to go squeak out once and
挑个黄道吉日”
just like make sure it’s my day.”
讣告 乌里·斯特克于四月三十日遇难
看来那天他运气不好
You know, obviously it wasn’t his day.
乌里去世后 亚历克斯的反应不大
After Ueli died, it’s interesting with Alex,
他很快就接受了这件事
how he justifies all that stuff away so quickly.
他耸耸肩就把这件事抛到脑后 他说
He was just kind of like shrugged it off, he’s like
“是啊 这种事很正常”
“Oh, yeah, yeah, it could happen.”
关于这件事 我和亚历克斯聊了很久
I talked to Alex for a really long time about all of this.
我问他”如果你死了呢
And I was like, “What if you die?
如果你像乌里一样死了呢”
Like what if you die just like Ueli died?”
乌里和妻子妮可志同道合
Ueli and his wife, Nicole, had a really beautiful relationship
经常一起攀岩
and they would climb together.
亚历克斯一度说 “她指望什么呢”
Alex said at one point, “Well, what did she expect?”
我就说 “你这是什么意思”
And I got, I was like, “What do you mean what did she expect?”
“我就像妮可 亚历克斯
I was like, “I’m Nicole, Alex!
我不想要这种结果”
And I don’t expect that.”
无数人因此去世 而亚历克斯
Tons of more people have died and Alex is kind of
遇难的可能性最大 但我知道他还是会去做
the most likely to die, but I know he’s gonna do it.
所以我想帮他尽力做好准备
So I’d like to be there to help him prepare as well as he can.
糟了
Oh, shit.
如果他无保护攀岩 最后坠落而亡
If he went to solo it and fell and died,
而我并没有帮他准备 那我就更难接受了
and I hadn’t helped him prepare that would be harder for me.
我知道我…
Like, I just know that I’m,
我是最适合帮他准备的人之一
I’m one of the people that’s gonna be able to do that the best
所以我应该这么做
with him and so, I should.
他说他感觉最终时刻就要到了
He said he’s feeling tinges of, of like game time.
我觉得他可能明天会去
I think there’s a chance he goes tomorrow.
这是远程摄像机
They are remote cameras,
因为我们要在亚历克斯攀登期间
because we wanna stay out of Alex’s line of sight
避开他的视线
when he’s doing it.
大家都知道一旦发生意外该怎么做
Okay, everybody knows what to do if something goes wrong.
乔什 确认一下麦基要打给谁
Josh, just to confirm who should Mikey call?
最简单的就是急救电♥话♥
The easiest thing would just be 911.
我们会迅速响应
And that we will get kicked into gear
告诉他们你掌握的情况
and tell them what you know.
一个攀岩者
A climber.
对
Yeah.
明天不要出差错
All right, no mistakes tomorrow.
我担心明天就是终点了
I’m worried that tomorrow is gonna be it, like, you know,
亚历克斯会遭遇不测
like Alex’s existence will be over.
我在想 “我必须做好心理准备
I was like, “Oh, I have to be prepared for that outcome and
我必须明白真的有这种可能”
I have to realize that that is a real possibility.”
天呐
Oh, god.
记不记得你说过我告别的时候你会站起来
Remember when you said you were gonna stand up for my goodbye?
-现在吗 -是啊
– Oh, is it time? – Yeah.
但你必须站起来 你必须坐起来
But you don’t have to stand up, but you have to sit up.