徒手攀岩

接下来这位嘉宾是一位徒手攀岩奇人
Our next guest is a free soloing phenomenon,
有请亚历克斯·霍诺德
please welcome Alex Honnold.
有几点我不明白
Here is what I don’t understand.
哪怕是再小错误 哪怕轻微失足
One little mistake, one little slip,
你就会命丧崖底
and you fall and die.
看来你很了解攀岩
Yeah, I mean, uh, you seem to understand it well…
-是啊 -是啊
– Yeah. – Yeah.
我认为任何人
And I feel like anynoby
都有可能在某一天死去
could conceivably die on any given day.
而徒手攀岩让人感觉更直接 更真实
Soloing makes it feel far more immediate and much more present.
不用绳索攀岩的感觉会不一样吗
Does it feel different to be up there without a rope?
不用绳索攀岩
When you’re climbing without a rope,
很明显 后果会更严重
it’s obviously like much higher consequence,
要求更高的专注度
much, much higher level of focus.
是一种完全不一样的体验
You know, it’s a whole different experience.
不是说我会一直把自己逼到极限
So it’s not like I’m just pushing and pushing and pushing
直到有不好的事发生为止
until something terrible happens.
我不会从那个层面去考虑
I don’t look at it, like, with that perspective.
但也许这就是为什么这对我来说很危险
But maybe that’s why it’s dangerous for me.
也许我靠得太近了
Maybe I’m too close to it
无法分辨我是不是正快速地爬向悬崖
and I can’t tell that I’m speeding towards a cliff.
好了
Okay.
我喜欢把风险和后果区分开
I like to differentiate between risk and consequence.
在我进行这些高难度的徒手攀岩时
You know, when I’m doing these hard free solos
我喜欢把风险
I like to think that the risk,
就是把我会摔下去的几率看得很低
you know, the chance of me falling off is quite low
哪怕这个几率十分之高
even though the consequence is extremely high.
这也正是
And that’s kind of like
徒手攀岩吸引人的一个地方
one of the appeals of free soloing, you know,
把一件看似既困难又危险的事
to take something that seems difficult
做到让人有安全感
and dangerous and make it feel safe.
那你认为
So, do you think that, uh,
作为一名攀岩者 这对你的恋爱生活
being a rock climber has been a positive or negative
起到的是积极还是消极的作用
for your dating life?
-我的恋爱生活吗 -是的
– My dating life? – Yeah.
我认为总体来说是消极的
I think, uh, I think overall it’s been a negative.
我总是到处游历 而且我住在车里
Um, I just travel too much and I live in a car.
我们来聊聊
Let’s talk through some of
你以往的一些攀岩活动
the climbing adventures you’ve had.
历史性的徒手攀岩 月华拱壁
The historic free solo climb, Moonlight Buttress.
攀登那里的时候 大家都觉得
When I did it, it was like, “Oh,”
那是历史性的一刻 挑战了极限
you know, kind of groundbreaking, kind of extreme.
月华拱壁
2008年 犹他州锡安
290米
但对我来说我一直觉得很简单 也很安全
But for me it always felt quite easy and pretty secure.
但你也并没有因此而止步
Well, that wasn’t where you stopped,
因为在那之后的第二次挑战
because that next challenge then
是徒手攀登半圆顶
was free soloing Half Dome.
半圆顶对我来说是迈出了巨大的一步
Half Dome was a huge step for me
因为它比所有我攀登过的山峰都要大两倍
because it was twice as big as anything I’d ever soloed.
半圆顶
2008年 加州约塞美蒂
610米
在这里徒手攀岩十分危险
Free solo is so dangerous
世界上只有不到百分之一的攀岩者尝试过
that less than 1% of people who climb attempt it.
亚历克斯完成过数千次徒手攀岩
Alex has done more than 1,000 free solo climbs,
但都没有这一次的难度高
but none were tougher than this one.
有些地方我会害怕
I got quite scared in some places,
然后会开始有点慌
and then you start to panic a little bit.
最后就不得不退回去
And then you have to, like, reel it all back in.
《国家地理》
攀上约塞米蒂顶端
前所未有
下一次徒手攀岩准备去哪呢
What is next in free solo climbing?
《都市攀岩者》
独家采访
史上最勇敢的攀岩者
与亚历克斯·霍诺德畅谈死亡 名气
以及下一次的攀登点
《户外》
亚历克斯·霍诺德如何将疯狂之举变为职业
还不知道 我想攀登酋长岩很多年了
Well, I don’t know, I mean, I’ve thought about El Cap,
美国加利福尼亚州东部内华达山脉中的一山
但每一年我看着它 我就在想
like, for years and every year I look at it and I’m like,
“真的太吓人了”
“That’s really scary.”
我从来没真的想过要攀
Um, well, I’ve never even wanted to really,
或者说我一直想要攀 但是
or I’ve always wanted to but then
我总是会想 “太吓人了”
I’ve always been like, “That’s too scary.”
我要去的是世界上最美丽的山谷
I’m aiming towards the most beautiful valley on earth.
我记得小时候去约塞米蒂
I remember coming to Yosemite as a little kid
位于美国加利福尼亚州中部
我爸总是会在车尾箱后放一个小冷藏箱
and my dad would always have a little cooler in the back of the car,
把饼干放在冰牛奶里
and have our cookies in the cold milk,
我们会坐在隧♥道♥观景点的石板上
and we’d sit on these slabs above Tunnel View,
那是约塞米蒂最壮观的景色
which is, like, the most epic view of Yosemite.
只要你看到酋长岩 你会很惊讶
As soon as you see El Cap it’s like,
真是太刺♥激♥了
“Oh, there it is, pretty exciting.”
酋长岩是地球上最令人赞叹的岩壁
El Cap is the most impressive wall on earth.
徒手攀岩
加州约塞米蒂国家公园
2016年春天
我很喜欢待在车里
Yeah, I mean I love, I love being in the van.
现在我可能觉得在车里特别舒服
I probably feel extra comfortable in the van now
因为我在车里已经住了九年
because I’ve lived in it for nine years.
我的第一辆房♥车 其实是偷家里的面包车
My first van, well, I actually stole the family minivan.
十九时我爸过世 我就辍学了
My dad died when I was 19 and I, I quit school.
当时有一点人寿保险
There was some life insurance.
只够我勉强过活
I had just enough to dirt bag.
六年前 我住在沃尔玛的停车场里
Six years ago I was living in a Walmart parking lot
每天花八十八美分来吃晚餐
and spending eighty-eight cents on dinner every night.
住在车里很好 但是
Living in a van is great but, you know,
有时候你会觉得有个浴室就好了
at a certain point it’d be nice to have a bathroom
至少能洗澡
and have, like, a shower at least.
我听说你现在有女朋友了
So you have a girlfriend now, I heard.
-有这个发展趋势 -有这个发展趋势
– Hmm, trending towards one. – Trending towards?
她很非常支持我
Hmm, I mean, she’s very supportive about,
做自己想做的事
like, you know, you have to do you.
再看吧
Yeah we’ll, we’ll see.
不过我这一生中可能会有很多女朋友
But yeah, there probably will be plenty of girlfriends in my life,
因为当涉及到大型攀岩
you know, in terms of, like, big climbing,
终生成就这些的时候 在攀岩和女朋友之间
lifetime achievement deals, where you’re just like, well,
我想我永远都会选择攀岩
think I will always choose climbing, over, over a lady.
至少目前是这样
At least, you know, so far.
你攀了几次酋长岩
How many times have you climbed El Cap?
可能有四十多次吧
Probably like 40 something maybe.
-你单人徒手攀岩过吗 -没有 没人试过
– You ever free solo? – No and nobody has.
你为什么还没去攀呢
Why haven’t you done it yet?
你看看它
Um, look at it, like, I mean, you know,
想想就觉得很可怕
think about it, it’s freaking scary.
我不知道 从2009年起
I don’t know, so I mean I’ve thought about this
每一年我都想要去徒手攀登
since 2009, like, each year since 2009,
我想 “就是今年了”
I’ve been like, “This is the year,”
但每一年我攀的时候 我就会想
and each year I climb it and I’m like,
“今年还不行 太难了”
“This isn’t the year, like, this is fucked,” you know.
但问题是我永远也不会满足
So I’m like, “Uh.” But the thing is I’ll never be content,
除非我至少付出了努力
unless I at least put in the effort.
因为如果我真的努力了 但还是觉得
Because, like, if I do all the work and I’m still like,
“实在太难了”
“This is messed up,”
那也许这件事就不适合我
then maybe it’s just not for me,
也许该交给下一代人
maybe its future generation, you know.
或许适合一个没有任何生活目标的人去挑战
Or maybe just somebody who has nothing to live for.
几年前 当我想到酋长岩时的时候
When I thought about El Cap years ago,
岩壁上到处都是问号♥
there were question marks all over the walls.
比如我不了解这个陡坡
It’s like I don’t know about this pitch,
我不熟悉那个陡坡
I don’t know about that pitch,
我不知道这块奇怪岩石的存在
like I don’t know about this particular slab,
所有的这些事在我看来都很不可思议
there are all these things that seem pretty crazy to me.
如果我最终的梦想是徒手攀登酋长岩
If the ultimate dream is to solo El Cap,
那我需要好好计划一张地图
then I need a good map of what that will take,
我需要心里有个谱 知道哪些是最难的部分