冲浪英豪（2012）

How long was that?
我当刚才没有发生过
You know what, I’m not even gonna acknowledge that just happened.
36英里 4分钟
马弗瑞克斯
哪儿找到的
Where’d you find that?
在你搬进婴儿室的梳妆台里
In the dresser that you moved into the baby’s room.
天哪 你真漂亮
God, you’re so beautiful.
我知道冲浪是你的热情所在
Look, um, I know that surfing is
是你的生命 你的解压方式
your passion and your life, your escape.
我都懂
I get it.
但我需要你给我一个承诺
But I need you to make me a promise.
而且这次我是认真的
And I’m serious this time.
你不能把30英尺高的激♥情♥冲浪看得比
That you’re not gonna put the rush of a 30-foot drop
你两个孩子的未来还重要
in front of the future of your two children.
我保证
I promise.
感谢上帝 你是个好男人
God, you’re a good man.
好的
Okay.
杰伊在等你
Jay’s waiting for you.
妈
Mom!
妈 你得马上起床
Mom, you got to get up right now!
你6点有个早班
You got a 6:00 shift!
不然你又要被炒鱿鱼了 妈
You’re gonna lose your job again! Mom!
不要吵
Oh, no.
-妈 快点起床啦 -我在起了
– Mom, get up! Come on! – I’m getting up!
你晚了11分钟
You’re 11 minutes late.
是的 抱歉 弗洛斯蒂
Yeah, sorry, Frosty.
因为我妈要给我签免责协议
You know, my mom… She had to write my permission slip, so…
你♥妈♥的♥字写得不错啊
Your mother’s got nice handwriting.
是不是费了一番口舌
She take much convincing?
不
No.
还好
Not much.
好的
Good.
那是你的早餐
That your breakfast?
是的
Hm? Yeah.
要想成为一名运动员
You want to be an athlete,
就得吃运动员吃的 吃这个
you got to eat like one. Take this.
来吧 吃了它 你比我更需要它
Go on, take it. You’re gonna need it more than me.
谢谢
Thanks.
现在吹南风和东南风
Winds out of the south, southeast,
时速15海里 阵风可达20海里
at 15 knots, gusting to 20 knots.
这就是天气收音机吧
That’s the Weather Radio, huh?
你用它来追踪大浪
You use it to follow big surf?
有点像你给浪计时那样
Kind of like you timing the waves.
只是这玩意儿更精确
Only this thing’s a little more accurate.
在这里没法把冲浪板划到浪区
There’s no way to paddle out there,
尤其用的还是长板
especially with long boards.
总会有办法的 是吧
Oh, there’s a way, all right.
看看你能否胜任了 大佬
So let’s see if you’re worth your salt, chief.
火候不够啊
Okay, back to baking.
走吧
Let’s go.
你使出浑身解数也才划了30码
So you made it all of 30 yards.
如果想到浪区的话
If you want to get out there,
起码要再划行半英里以上
you got to make it through more than half a mile of this,
才能够着马弗瑞克斯
just to get in position of Mavericks.
因此你得保存好你所有的体力
So you’ve got to conserve all the energy you’ve got.
好吧
All right.
现在来看看你不足的地方
Now let’s take a look at what you missed.
出于某种考虑
Now, for some reason,
你决定径直划出这片波浪汹涌的区域
you decided to paddle straight out into that mess.
看看那边的岩石
Now, take a look at the rocks over there.
发现水流怎样了
See what’s happening with the current?
它没地方去了
It’s got nowhere to go.
没地方去怎么办
Nowhere to go but where?
-退回去吗 -正是 它只好退回去
– Back out? – Exactly, back out.
对冲浪者而言
To a waterman,
这就是一条天然的传送带
it’s a conveyor belt.
看好了
Watch this.
今天的课
So today’s lesson
就是关于观察的能力
was about the power of observation.
很简单 现在你有两个选择
Simple fact is you got two choices.
你可以霸王硬上弓
You can fight things head-on
或是观察并遵循自然法则
or you can observe the laws of nature.
如果你观察得够仔细
Because if you look hard enough,
自然会有解决的办法
there’s always a way through it.
-说得有理吗 -是的 先生
– Make sense? – Yes, sir.
好家伙
Good man.
你要以此为题写一篇论文给我
Because you’re going to write me an essay about it.
是一篇3页不空行的打印体论文
Three pages, typewritten, single-space.
成败就在你观察到的细节当中
Devil’s in the details of whatever you observe.
是时候开始建立你的意志支柱了 大佬
Time to start building your mental pillar, chief.
金米
Hey, Kimmy.
天哪 你没事吧
Oh, my gosh! Are you okay?
没事
Yeah.
伙计 你在干嘛
Oh, man. What are you doing?
我刚下班
Uh, I just got off work.
你呢
You?
我打算去游个泳
Oh, um, I was just trying to go for a swim.
没想到星期天那么早关门
But I guess they close early on Sundays.
要是你想在晚上游泳的话
You want to go swimming at night,
你就得走后门了
you got to use the back entrance.
也不是那么糟糕嘛
Hey, this isn’t so bad.
好吧 我们怎么下去
Okay, so how do we get down?
我只知道一种办法
There’s only one way I know of.
什么 不 你开玩笑吗
What? No. Are you serious?
不行
No.
杰伊
Jay.
我看见你的车了 也不通知我一声
I saw your bike. You didn’t tell me.
她知道规矩吗
So she know the rules?
不知道
No.
-让一下 让一下 -抱歉
– Clear it. Clear it. – Excuse me.
这有点像花式溜冰
It’s kind of like figure skating.
分数取决于样式的组合
Points based on a combination of style,
完成度和难度系数
execution and difficulty.
我要做个空中翻腾一周半的示范
For example, I’m going to start with a standing one and a half.
高难度 我强调 是高难度动作
High, I repeat, high level of difficulty.
因为我马上要把池底给洗了
Because I got to clear the pool deck.
去吧 马上变成冰激凌
Hit that, you’re immediately DQ’d.
不 等等 你们不会是说真吧
No. Wait, wait, wait. You guys aren’t serious.
不会吧 不要啊
Really? No!
评审请打分
And the judges say.
-天啊 -很好 布朗迪
– Oh, my gosh. – Nice one, Blondie.
看来只有后空翻能赢他了
The only thing that can top that is a reverse back tuck.
-因为没人定过怎么算分 -别
– Because of the blind entry. – No.
-我不敢看 -你得看
– I can’t watch this. – You have to.
因为你是唯一的评审
You’re the only judge.
不要啊 杰伊
No, Jay!
我想找个人来爱
I wanna love somebody
听说你也芳心未许
I hear you need somebody to love
来看啊 太棒了
Look at this! Yeah!
听说你在众里寻他
I hear you’re looking for someone to love
下面评审将以比赛者身份
And the judge turned competitor
与莫里亚利蒂一比高下
ties it with Moriarity.
劝你还是不要
No, no, no!
看看谁才是冠军
To see who the real champion will be.
我们来个最后冲刺
We’re down to a final sprint.
回到女友的怀中
Back in the arms of a girlfriend
我不知空无一人
I didn’t know nobody
见你向我走来
And then I saw you coming my way
你犯规
Ooh! Hey, you cheater!
你被取消比赛资格了
Ooh. You are disqualified.
为什么
Why?
你拉我脚了