逐冰之旅（2012）

却从未想过能亲眼目睹
in the earth sciences, I never imagined
如此巨大的地貌
that you could see features this big disappearing
在短时间内消失殆尽
in such a short period of time.
但当我目睹这一切时 我意识到
But when I did… when I saw that… and I realized, my God,
这些照片正揭开一段宏伟的历史
there’s a powerful piece of history that’s unfolding
我必须回到相同的地点
in these pictures and I have to go back to those same spots.
所以我在冰川周围找了很多摄像点
So, I set up a whole bunch of camera positions
以便于在同一个地点
around that glacier where I would just go back
拍摄其不同时期的照片
and shoot a single frame.
比如 四月拍一张 十月拍一张
You know, one in April, one in October,
这样我们就能看到冰川半年来的变化
and we would just see how the glacier changed in six months.
六个月后
就在萨维夫所在的位置
Right there where Svav is.
就是那儿
Right there.
那儿就是冰川原来的位置
That’s exactly where the ice was.
就是那儿
Right there.
对吗 消失了
Right? Over.
嗯 对的 这正是
Uhh, correct, this is where…
冰川变化如此之大
That glacier had changed so much, that,
说真的 我们在那儿站了有三个小时
I’m not kidding, for like three hours, we stood there,
对照着六个月前的照片
looking at the prints of six months ago,
看冰川的变化 一定是我们弄错了
looking at the glacier going, we must be wrong,
这不可能是同一个位置
we can’t be in the right places.
这些照片好像是那边的
They appear to be from over there.
6英尺
六个月后
同一机位 六个月后
当我看到这些照片时 我眼前一亮
And when I saw those, the lights when off
我意识到 人们并不关心更多的
for me, I realized, the public doesn’t wanna hear
研究数据 电脑模型和放映影像
about more statistical studies, more computer models,
他们需要的是
more projections… what they need is a believable,
可信 易懂 直观的证据
understandable piece of visual evidence…
一些本能上吸引他们的东西
something that grabs them in the gut.
所以我启动了这个项目 极端冰川调查 简称EIS
So I created this project called the Extreme Ice Survey… or EIS.
最初的目标是
The initial goal was to put
放置二十五台相机 为时三年
out twenty five cameras for three years.
它们白天每隔一小时拍摄一张照片
And they would shoot every hour as long as it was daylight.
我们定时下载照片
We would download those cameras every so often
并将照片拼接成视频短片
and turn those individual frames into video clips
展示地貌的变化
that would show you how the landscape was changing.
我原本以为这很简单
I thought that basically,
只需从货架上买♥♥来记录时间推移的设备
you could just buy all this time lapse equipment off the shelf,
把它们随手一丢 架在外面就行
slam it together and put it out there.
我想得太天真了
I was so naive about that.
我们需要一台特制的计算机
Uh, there was a custom computer that needed to be built
还要处理数以千计的工程细节
and there were a thousand little engineering details that needed
需反复尝试 修正错误
to be worked out and a lot of trial and error,
因为从未有人组建过这样的东西
because people hadn’t built this stuff before.
我很清楚 这需要团队合作
And it was clear to me, it would have to be a team effort.
我对摄影没什么兴趣
I wasn’t that into photography,
但我说服他带我来这里看看
but I talked him into me coming up here and having a look.
因为我很好奇 十分想尽我所能
Cause I was curious and I really wanted to do whatever I could
参与其中
to get my foot in the door.
萨维夫是冰岛的一名野外助理
Svav is the field assistant in Iceland.
准备好了吗
You ready?
好了
As ready as I can be.
这里更迷人
These are more attractive
因为我觉得这里风景如画
because I think they’re more picturesque,
而且仍有大♥片♥冰川
and they’re still big glaciers.
杰森经验丰富
Jason has a deep, deep well of experience
熟悉格陵兰岛的冰川及岛上的后勤工作
about Greenland’s glaciers, about Greenland logistics,
也很了解冰川的动态
about what the glaciers were doing.
塔德是一名冰川学家
Tad’s a glaciologist he’s really the grandfather,
他是阿♥拉♥斯加冰川学术的开创者和教父
the Godfather and the knowledge base about those glaciers in Alaska.
自认识他以来 EIS项目的范围和规模
The scope and the scale of EIS is bigger
就比其他任何项目都要庞大
than any other project since I’ve known him.
他们会工作一整天
They would work all day, in our little,
在车♥库♥改装成的工作室里
what used to be our garage, turned into a workshop…
有时工作到晚上十一二点
until sometimes, 11, 12 o’clock at night.
詹姆斯给我一个物品清单
James sent me a gear list of things
我从没听说过这些东西——冰镐和冰爪
that I had never heard… I mean Ice axes and crampons…
我从未用过
all of this technical climbing gear
这些专业攀爬用具
that I had never used before.
我还记得当时我想 我决不去攀冰
I remember thinking that I never want to do ice climbing
或者跟冰有关的任何事情 太危险了 我会死的
or ice related stuff, it’s dangerous, I’m gonna die,
但是 当然啦 我还是跟着詹姆斯去了冰岛
but of course, I still went with James to Iceland.
天哪
Jeez…
你说什么
What?
我只是说 我的上帝呀
I’m just saying Jesus Christ.
我只想强调一下天气到底有多糟
I’m just emphasizing how bad the weather is.
是啊 不用你说
Yeah, I don’t need it.
我知道
I get it.
拍摄系统实际上就是
The essence of the camera systems is based
把十分精密的电子仪器
on putting really delicate electronics
放在地球上最恶劣的环境里
in the harshest conditions on the planet.
它们必须承受狂风
They have to withstand hurricane force winds.
零下四十度的低温
Negative 40 degree temperatures.
这种环境不适合摆放仪器
It’s not the nicest environment for technology to be sitting out in.
索海姆冰川 冰岛 设置第一架照相机
无论那块圆石头有多危险
Whatever the dangers of that boulder are,
那里确实是比这里更好的拍摄点
that’s a better spot than this is.
我们找到可以藏相机的地方了
Well we found a place to hide the camera;
这可是个好消息
that’s the good news.
坏消息是 需要测试很多工序
The bad news is we’ve got a major engineering project to try
用来支撑和固定
and get that thing anchored and supported.
这里很松
This thing is loose.
看啊 这东西有多软
Look how soft this stuff is.
就设在这块地方吧
Yeah it’s gotta be this section right here.
呃 另一面
Uh… The other way around.
坠石 太棒了 看看这个
Rock! This is fantastic. Look at this.
跟我们期望的完全一样
It’s exactly what we wanted.
好吧 开始了
Okay.. Well, here we go.
观察冰川的第一双眼睛 终于装好了
The first eyeballs on the glacier… finally.
让我们看看几年后会怎样吧
Let’s uh, see what a couple years brings to us.
照片一 索海姆冰川 冰岛 2007年3月28日 下午1:10
那次我们总共安装了五台照相机
We installed five cameras in total on that trip.
之后 我们去了格陵兰岛
After that, we went on to Greenland.
冰山从冰川中脱离
When glaciers break these gigantic icebergs
崩入大海的过程叫”裂冰”
off into the ocean it’s called calving ‘c-a-l-v-i-n-g.’
早在数十万年前进入大海之时
Ever since glaciers have entered the ocean, hundreds of thousands
冰川就开始断裂
of years ago, ice has always calved off.
但我们现在看到的是格陵兰岛的冰盖越来越薄
But what we’re seeing now is the Greenland ice sheet thinning out
往大海注入更多的冰和水
and dumping out ever more ice and water into the ocean.
好的
Okay good.
是的 就这里
Yep. Right up here.
就像拍人物肖像
It’s sort of like doing a portrait of people.
理查德?埃夫登和欧文?佩恩
You know, uh, Richard Avendan
毕生都在从事人像摄影
and Irving Penn spent their entire careers doing portraits
那些人脸变幻多端
of faces essential, and found endless variation
散发无穷的魔力和美感
and endless beauty and endless magic in those faces and for me,
对我来说 我在这里所做的也是一样
that’s the same thing as what’s going on here.
你可以从这些冰川
You know you feel this tension between this huge,
巨大 持久的力量和脆弱性中感受到这种矛盾
enduring power of these glaciers and their fragility.
它们来自广袤而冰冷的地方
You know, they came from a great, impassive place,
它们正分崩离析
and they’re just, they’re crumbling
无数冰块坠入深海
into these tiny little blocks of ice going off into the ocean.
太疯狂了
It’s crazy.
我们第一次去格陵兰岛
My first trip to Greenland, We were setting
是去斯托冰川安装摄像机
up one of the cameras at Store Glacier.
我们到了那里
We got there, we saw this really,
光怪陆离的半岛映入眼帘
bizarre looking peninsula.
就那样在最前端伸出去 那个断裂面
Just kind of perched out at the front of this… the calving face
那里是冰川的尽头
of the glacier, where the glacier ends.