我们都为比尔着盛装

The picture frame collar.
今夏最流行的T恤衫
There was the most popular T-shirt this summer
都印着很多的太阳镜
was printed with multiple sunglasses.
完全不要觉得 时尚进入了瓶颈期 时尚就要结束了
There’s no reason to be doom and gloom and think that fashion is finished.
只要回去打开你的衣柜 就能找到答案
Just reach back into your closet…
我叫他”瘦人”
I call it “the thin man.”
这是一种值得参考的搭配
It’s a serious way of dressing.
他们的穿法 我觉得对你已经有帮助了
They’ve got something going here, and I thought it was serious enough…
你可以参考一下
for you to take a look at.
谢谢收听 希望你们享受这期节目
Thank you very much, and I hope you enjoy it.
好的 把这张移走 把这个女人放在那边
Okay, move it all over and take this woman and put her in the corner.
这样很好
Yeah, that’s nice.
我觉得这样就够了
I think it’s all right.
还不错
That’s not bad.
你要我帮你订午饭么
You want me to order your lunch today?
-你说什么 -要我帮你订午饭么
-I beg pardon? -Do you want me to order you in lunch?
-午饭 -不 我是说点个汤
-Oh. Lunch. -No. Soup, you know.
我没在想午饭吃什么
I’m not thinking about lunch.
我知道我们要做出什么样的
No. I know what we need.
-什么 -好的 这些都不动位置
-What? -Yeah. It’s all right. No, leave everything alone.
把她放到这儿 把她放到那儿
Uh, put her here, and put her over here.
对 就是这样 你做的对
Yes. There it is. You got it.
看 这头发 这动作 还有这风…完美
See, the hair, the same gesture, the wind. Wonderful.
如果你研究他的作品 你会发现他非常专注于细节
If you examine his pictures, he always is focused on some detail…
他会在意一些叙事性和概念性的东西
or some narrative or conceptual thing that he’s documenting.
你喜欢看我们穿的一样么比尔
Do you like that we’re dressed alike, Bill?
我是说…你喜欢看我们两个穿的一样么
I said, do you like it that we’re dressed alike? Mm-hmm.
我们认识有六十年了
We’ve been hanging around with each other for 60 years.
-这真棒 -我们高中是同学
-That’s great. -We went to high school together.
那很好 很棒
That’s great. Yeah. Terrific.
并且我们从没吵过架
And we never had a fight.
那更好了
Oh, good. That’s better.
那真太好了 世界上有那么多人在吵架
That’s better. There’s enough people fighting.
小心那些疯狂的司机
Watch these crazy cabdrivers.
好的 拜拜
Okay, good-bye.
他的照片绝不仅仅是狗仔队似的街拍
So his photographs, rather than just paparazzi shots,
而是记录和见证了时尚的发展
are really evidence of what fashion is at any given moment in the world.
他的成就不仅仅是记录了时尚
His archive is really not just an encapsulation of fashion,
更是纽约生活最真实的写照
but of New York life,
并且我认为
and I think
这对于研究时尚发展史的人来说 是一件很棒的事
it’s wonderful for fashion historians…
真的有这么一个人
that this did happen…
一个如此独特的人
That there was this one individual…
奉献了他的一生
who was willing to dedicate his life…
去展现这迷人的文化
to this fascinating manifestation of culture.
这不算摄影
It’s not photography.
任何一个真正的摄影家都会觉得 这完全称不上摄影
I mean, any real photographer would say he’s a fraud.
我觉得他们说的没错
Well, they’re right.
我只是在捕捉和记录下我看到的东西
I’m just about capturing what I see and documenting what I see.
他是一个很专业的摄影师么
I mean, is he Horst?
比如说让你举着一束花来给你拍照
Put a bunch of flowers in front of you?
他不是那样的 他也不想成为那样的摄影师
No. He’s not that, but that’s not what he wants to be.
我觉得他就是在记录最真实的生活
I think he photographs life.
八十年代初新兴的日本设计师
The parallel between the emerging japanese designers in the early ’80s…
和那街边拿着包的纽约人是同时期出现的
and the bag people in New York…
令人惊讶的是
was startling, astonishing.
当时并没有人注意到这些
No one would talk about it or even show the pictures.
随着时间的推移
And as time went on,
那个日本人川久保玲承认说
the Japanese woman Rei Kawakubo admitted…
她的灵感来源
that her inspiration…
当有人问她 “你觉得谁的穿的最好看的女人”
That when someone said, “Who do you think are the best-dressed women?”
她说”那个街边拿着包的纽约女人”
And she said, “The bag women in New York.”
不管她当时的说法现在看起来是多么的滑稽或是讥讽
Now whether she was being facetious or cynical…
或是有些艺术家认为 那就是她的灵感来源
or a real artist and saying what she really thought,
其实很多人在无意中的穿着
you know, we’re too close
都影响到了这种敏感的话题
to a very touchy subject.
但是从时尚研究者的角度而言…
But as a historian, uh,
八十年代初 我们在纽约街头很多地方看到的是
what we see in New York in the 1980s in some areas…
那时候人们穿的衣服的那种形态
is close to medieval Europe.
类似于欧洲中世纪的服装
The shapes, I mean, of these people.
你的第一台相机是谁送给你的么
Didn’t someone give you your first camera?
大卫·蒙哥马利
David Montgomery,
一个常年居住在伦敦的美国摄影师
an American photographer who lived and worked in London.
当时我和他还有他的妻子在一起吃晚饭
We were there at his home with his wife and all for dinner one night.
我问他 他有没有个助手
I said, “Gee, do you have an assistant
可以帮我在一些时尚店铺
who could take a picture for me tomorrow?”
拍张照片
Some fashion shop, I mentioned.
然后他果然叫了一个助手来帮我拍照
And… Yes, he sent one of his assistants out.
大概三个月之后他来了纽约
And then when he came to New York about three months later,
他说带给了我意见礼物
he said, “Here, I brought you something.”
他说 像你用笔写字那样
He said, “Use it like a pen, like you take notes.
用相机来记录生活吧
Do it with a camera.”
那是一台奥林巴斯的半框相机 39美元
A little Olympus half-frame. They were $39,
可以拍72张照片 其中一半有帧辊
and you got 72 pictures to a 36 roll of…
译者不太清楚相机原理这部分
于是我更加喜欢这台相机了
Frame roll of film so I liked that even better.
于是我更加喜欢这台相机了
Frame roll of film so I liked that even better.
街头潮流很有趣的一点在于
One of the interesting things about street style…
在它兴起时
is that it emerged at the same point…
比尔正好得到了他的第一台相机
that, um, Bill got a camera.
在这种街头潮流的影响下
And by street style,
有些时尚就真的来自于街上普通人的穿着
I’m talking about fashions that really did emerge from the street.
总会有那么些场景或照片
There was always a sense of a kind of quotidian world…
记录着一个国家的变迁
that one sees in photographs that were done at the turn of the century,
比如说
for example,
思贝格兄弟还有其他这些人
by the Seeberger brothers,
的照片见证了bon monde
or different people who were documenting the bon monde,
但这些都不算真正意义上的街头潮流
but it wasn’t really street style in that it wasn’t,
理论上的 “普通人”
theoretically, “ordinary” people,
那些仅仅去做生意 或是什么事情时
going about their business dressed
穿着很棒的人普通人
in fascinating ways.
真正的街头潮流大概开始于二十世纪六十年代
That really begins to happen in the 1960s,
比尔大概也是那时开始拍照的
and that is the moment which Bill begins.
有一次的复活节
On an Easter Sunday,
我自己回来洗我的照片
I came back here to get film,
忽然接到了一个电♥话♥
and the phone rang and I picked it up,
是《纽♥约♥时♥报♥》时尚评论
and it was the Times fashion critic and editorial writer
的编辑夏洛特·柯蒂斯
Charlotte Curtis, who I knew very well.
她让我马上带着相机去Sheep Meadow
And she said, “Bill, grab your cameras and get up to the
她说 “那儿正在举♥行♥筑有活动集♥会♥”
Sheep Meadow as quick as you can. They’re having a be-in.”
我完全不知道什么是筑有活动集♥会♥
What the hell is a be-in?
于是我马上骑车跑到Sheep Meadow
I jumped on my bike and went up to the Sheep Meadow,
那儿有很多很多的年轻人
and there were thousands of kids.
我从来没见过那样的场景
Oh! I mean, you just never saw anything like it.
那些带着花儿的孩子 嬉皮士 那一切都很新奇
All the flower children, the hippies, everything,
那真是有趣的一天
All up there, and it was a lovely day,
他们都打扮的很有趣 躺在草地上
and they were lying on the grass or the dirt or whatever it was,
或是泥地里
and they were dressed.
那真是很奇妙
It was marvelous,
完全吸引住了我
and that really did me in.
从那时起 我开始拍这些年轻人
From then on, that was it, kid.
我的周末计划有了些改变
My Sundays and Saturdays…
周六在城里拍照
Saturdays down in SoHo,
周日跑到这些公园去照
and Sundays up in the park…were completely taken.
就是这样
That was it.
安东尼奥评价我说
Course, as Antonio said,
“你的照片虽然是黑白的
“Yep, and you photographed everything in black and white,
但记录下的却是色彩斑斓的生活”
and it was all about color.”
他说的对 不过那时我负担不起彩照
Course he was right, but I couldn’t afford color film and developing…
只能拍黑白照片
so it’s in black and white.
估计这些有一天会掉下来砸到我
Oh, boy. Someday, it’s all gonna fall down on me.