我们都为比尔着盛装

现在的《Details》杂♥志♥是
The original Details with
安妮·弗兰德的
Annie Flanders.
译者注:《Details》杂♥志♥是Gay大热杂♥志♥之一 安妮·弗兰德是《Details》杂♥志♥的创始人
我们曾一起工作的非常愉快
We worked well together.
我们曾一起工作的非常愉快
We worked well together.
她坚持与我合作 无论我的稿子要改多少遍
She took me on and didn’t mind how many changes I made…
或是我要加进去多少照片
or how many pictures I wanted to put in.
她是个很不寻常的艺术总监
The most extraordinary art director.
令人难以置信的才华
Incredible. Um…
我觉得…她是比尔的一生所爱
The love of Bill’s life, I think.
《Details》杂♥志♥1982年3月
Details got started on
开始做”新娘”这个栏目
the ides of March 1982.
我之所以记得这个日期
The reason I remember that date…
那也是SoHo News破产的日子
was it was the date that the SoHo News went out of business.
我在《Details》杂♥志♥做的事情大概是
The vision that I had for Details was really a continuation…
我原来在SoHo News做的事情的一种延续
of what I had been doing at SoHo News,
发现一些有趣的人
discovering people and
并第一时间给他们机会把作品出版出来
giving them their first opportunity to be in print.
安妮创办《Details》杂♥志♥的原因之一
The reason Annie founded the magazine
是提供一个平台
was to give a platform…
给那些城市中的一些独♥立♥的
to the downtown, independent,
不出名的设计师提供一个平台
small designers,
她把机会给那些在出名以前大杂♥志♥连看都不会看的设计师
who no one else would pay attention to
这些人出名后
until they were successful…
大杂♥志♥便会从安妮这里把他们抢走
and then steal them from Annie.
安妮简直是那些小设计师的恩人
Oh, Annie was the Earth mother of downtown.
我不知道你会不会那么叫她 不过她真的是
I don’t know if that’s what you called it. Oh, definitely.
安妮会给比尔很大的创作空间和自♥由♥度
Annie would just give Bill like… Here’s a hundred pages,
比尔的作品等在安妮的这里
and Bill flourished with Annie
也比其他任何杂♥志♥都多
more than ever anywhere.
就好像是她提供给他了一整个迷你杂♥志♥
It was like she almost gave him his own little mini magazine
他可以按照自己喜欢和想要的样子来做
just to do it however he wanted.
他整天都在工作 有时会晚上过来
He’d work all day, and he’d come up at night,
我们有时会开会到凌晨四点
and our sessions usually lasted till about 4:00 in the morning.
我白天要为《纽♥约♥时♥报♥》工作
I worked for the Establishment during the day,
我像逃出牢笼一样跑到这里来
so I was like a bird getting out of a cage, and I’d go down there.
这真是很奇妙的感觉
It was marvelous.
我一般在结束《纽♥约♥时♥报♥》的工作之后过来
I would come after my job at the Times,
然后我们把内容定下来 我大概两点钟左右回家
and we would lay this out, and then I’d go home about 2:00.
从SoHo那边骑车过来 好了我们在这儿
Biked back from SoHo where we were.
我在策划《Details》杂♥志♥的一♥期♥秋季特刊
I think one Details Magazine, it was Fall Special…
125页比尔·康宁汉姆的作品
125 pages of Bill Cunningham.
一百页
A hundred pages?
-99 -99页
-Ninety-nine. -Ninety-nine pages.
我们只是…从没想过这个
We just… We never thought of it.
我们都是尽力在杂♥志♥上
We just went on and did what
表达我们想要传达给读者的东西
we wanted till we had said what we wanted to say.
-111页 -111页
-111 pages. -111 pages.
这部分我要重新解构这些刺绣的外套
Here what I did was I blew up the embroidery of the coat,
我们把它放在这些页
and we put it on the pages,
然后把衣服的图片缩小到页中♥央♥
and then put the coat, small, in the middle of it,
因为内容是在…
’cause the news was in…
是的 我们的想法是…占大部分的是这个花纹
Yeah, the idea was the big… was this.
因为这有些像文艺复兴时期的东西
‘Cause it was like something out of the Renaissance, you see?
你要努力向读者展现出这些最新的东西
You try to show the reader what was really new.
看这个…
Look at this.
这像是保罗·波烈在1910的作品
It’s like something from Paul Poiret, uh, 1910.
谢赫拉莎德的一千零一夜
Scheherazade, the Arabian Nights.
看这些刺绣 流苏 蕾丝边
Look at the embroidery, the tassels, the lace.
你能想象印制的这些页是多么奢侈么
Now, I mean, can you imagine the extravagance of these pages?
安妮·弗兰德做决定时从不眨眼
Annie Flanders never blinked.
安妮你不要有什么意见
You can’t say anything, Annie.
我的这些照片没有收你钱 所以我要做我想做的东西
I didn’t take money, so I can do what I want.
很意外她居然没有说
It’s a wonder she didn’t say,
“这不意味着你可以为所欲为 弄得我破产”
“That didn’t mean you can bankrupt me.”
我从最开始发行的时候
What I did from the very first issue…
就列了一张单子 我们应该给比尔的照片付多少钱
is I kept a list of how much Bill would’ve gotten paid.
当我寄给他第一张支票的时候
Well, the first check I sent him,
他跑到办公室来 当着我的面把支票撕掉了
he came in the office and ceremoniously ripped it up.
第二张支票 他也这样撕掉了
The second check, he did the same thing.
俗话说拿人手软 我不收他们的钱
You see, if you don’t take money,
也就不用被他们要求怎么去做
they can’t tell you what to do, kid.
哈哈 这是这件事的关键
That’s… That’s the key to the whole thing.
别碰钱
Don’t touch money.
除非你实在没辙了
It’s the worst thing you can do.
有一些关于比尔的故事
There’s a story about the fact that Bill,
当你把《Details》杂♥志♥卖♥♥给康泰纳仕的时候
when you sold Details to Condé Nast,
比尔拒绝把他的支票兑现 是的
Bill refused to cash his check. Yes.
纽豪斯不得不
And Si Newhouse was calling you
隔几天就给他打一通电♥话♥
like every couple of months…
告诉你说”比尔 你的支票可以兑现了”
to say, “Bill, your check is waiting.”
康泰纳仕买♥♥下了《Details》杂♥志♥
Condé Nast bought it?
是的
Yes, yes.
纽豪斯大概一年前买♥♥下的
Newhouse bought it a year ago.
纽豪斯赚走了那些钱
Well, Newhouse is taking the money.
但是他们不能支配我
Yeah, but they don’t own me, you see.
你不归他们管
They don’t own you.
这一点很重要 不要被哪一个杂♥志♥社管着
That’s the important thing, never to be owned.
我知道 我知道你不归他们管
I know they don’t own you. I know they don’t own you.
钱是最没用的东西
Money’s the cheapest thing.
自♥由♥和自在才是最重要的
Liberty and freedom is the most expensive.
你明白我的意思理查德
No, you know what I mean, Richard.
你问过我…
So you asked me…
为什么我拍了这么多照片还没有进入有钱人的行列
about not falling into the traps of the rich.
我总会想起我在时尚界的第一个合作伙伴…
I would think it was my first, uh, partner in my fashion business.
一个叫做丽贝卡·哈克尼斯的女人
A woman by the name of Rebekah Harkness,
她家是一个非常富有的纽约家庭
a very affluent New York family,
她计划着并最终给我的帽子店投了资
and she was looking to invest in my hat shop and she did.
但是1951年的时候开始征兵了
But then the army came along… this is 1951…
我应征入伍
I was drafted.
他们没想到我会去参军
Well, they were appalled that I would go,
对店里的投资就搁置了
and their investment would be on hold.
谁知道会发生什么事
Who knows what would happen?
我也没想到他们会这样
I was appalled at them.
我觉得 国家来征兵了
I thought, “You’re drafted.
这是你的国家 你作为一个公民 就该去
This is the country where you live, who you are. You go. ”
他们并不是很理解我的做法
Well, they couldn’t understand that at all.
后来我去参军了 没什么别的想法
Course I went in the army. I wouldn’t think otherwise.
他们劝我别去 还去找我的家人
They badgered me and they badgered my family, and finally…
我的叔叔和婶婶 当时我和他们住在一起
my aunt and uncle, whom I lived with here in the city,
我觉得把她的投资还给她就好了
I think they returned the money she had invested which… God…
大概是…一千美元
Maybe it was a thousand dollars?
对他们来说是一大笔投资吧
Which was a lot of money then.
对哈克尼斯家族来说
To the Harkness family,
我觉得一千美元不算什么钱
I don’t think a thousand dollars was a lot of money.
我知道他们想要回那笔钱
Oh, they tried to have it… I know what it was…
如果用我当兵的钱一点点去还
deducted from my army salary,
大概得十年
which would have taken about ten years,
因为我不知道你做了什么…
’cause I don’t know what you made…
那时大概每个月拿90美元
You got paid maybe $90 a month or something like that.
反正是些挺愚蠢的事
Some stupidity.
我家里人帮我还清了这笔钱
So my family paid it off,
当我退伍之后 我又赚了钱还给我家里
and then when I got out of the army, I paid my family back.
别拍我们
Don’t take a picture of us.
再拍我就拿那愚蠢的相机砸你的头
I’ll break that fucking camera over your head.
是的 他叫我去…
Yeah, he wanted… he wanted me…
去见替代我职位的人
to come up and meet my replacement.
代替你职位的人
Your replacement. Your…
是的…你把工作交给我了
Yes, you passed on the torch to me.
你只是像个花瓶一样
You’re just a trophy wife.
我从最开始就在做这份工作